Dhaulagiri I | 1986 S Face-SW Ridge

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1986 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Eugeniusz Chrobak. Summit reached on 1st November 1986. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 940
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA186302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Eugeniusz Chrobak
Sponsor Dhaulagiri S Face 1986
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-16
Summit Date 1986-11-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 46
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1986-11-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7550m due to wind destroying C5
High Point (m) 7550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 16
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,3800m),C1(22/09,5300m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6100m),C4(26/10,7100m),C5(31/10,7500m),xxx(01/11,7550m)
Route Notes BC at 3800m Thula Khola's east moraine C3 at 6100m start of snow rib C4 at 7100m above big seracs, left of snow rib C5 at 7500m col giving across to West Ridge High point on West Ridge. Very difficult route climbed: rock BC to C2, snow above to ridge. At C5 wind so strong picked up tent after poles broken and lifted collapsed tent off mountain. Took 2 weeks to get to BC cutting the jungle, making bridges, fixing rope for porters who gave lot of troubles. 1 week lost here might have spelled defeat in late Oct. Winds were not problem on face route but at ridge were very strong. Did have snow fall, block avalanche problems, rock avalanche cut fixed ropes and just missed climbers on exposed lower section of route several times, rock section not so difficult but snow section was sugar-snow and rib treacherously soft. Above C2 some days only 40-50m gained. Wind had smashed C5. No time left on 3 months air ticket. Total 3000m rope fixed on route. All technical climbing finished but after C5 destroyed by wind, would have taken 10 days to remount summit bid.
Accidents Nothing very serious
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452637
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Emil Staszkow M 1941 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Eugeniusz (Genek) Chrobak M 1939 Poland Leader Krakow, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Maciej Berbeka M 1954 Poland Deputy Leader Zakopane, Poland Teacher & furniture designer Details Other expeditions
Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski M 1951 Poland Climber Nowy Sacz, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Ambrozy M 1951 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Mikolaj Czyzewski M 1960 Poland Climber Paris, France Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Falco-Dasal M 1952 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Engineer, geophysical Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Zbigniew Dudek M 1950 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Architect Details Other expeditions
Andrez Karst M 1955 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Engine mechanic Details Other expeditions
Michal Kwasny M 1954 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Engine mechanic Details Other expeditions
Dean H. Smith M 1957 Canada Climber Ottawa, Ontario Biologist Details Other expeditions
Iain Stewart-Patterson M 1960 Canada Climber British Colombia Outward Bound instructor Details Other expeditions
Wlodzimierz Stoinski M 1951 Poland Climber Nowy Sacz, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jan Swider M 1959 Poland Climber Nowy Sacz, Poland Student Details Other expeditions
Anna Szermer F 1957 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Architect Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Zajac M 1951 Australia Climber Australia Air-conditioning technician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA186302 AAJ Chrobak, Eugeniusz - - 61:255-256 (1987) -
DHA186302 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
DHA186302 - Falco-Dasal, Miroslaw Mniej-Wiecej Niz Dhaulagiri Almapress, Czeladz - F05
DHA186302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725503/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Face-Attempt - - -