Dhaulagiri I | 1986 S Face-SW Ridge
A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1986 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Eugeniusz Chrobak. Summit reached on 1st November 1986. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 940 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA186302 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Face-SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Poland |
| Leaders | Eugeniusz Chrobak |
| Sponsor | Dhaulagiri S Face 1986 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Canada |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-09-16 |
| Summit Date | 1986-11-01 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 49 |
| Termination Date | 1986-11-04 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7550m due to wind destroying C5 |
| High Point (m) | 7550 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 16 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(16/09,3800m),C1(22/09,5300m),C2(02/10,5800m),C3(20/10,6100m),C4(26/10,7100m),C5(31/10,7500m),xxx(01/11,7550m) |
| Route Notes | BC at 3800m Thula Khola's east moraine C3 at 6100m start of snow rib C4 at 7100m above big seracs, left of snow rib C5 at 7500m col giving across to West Ridge High point on West Ridge. Very difficult route climbed: rock BC to C2, snow above to ridge. At C5 wind so strong picked up tent after poles broken and lifted collapsed tent off mountain. Took 2 weeks to get to BC cutting the jungle, making bridges, fixing rope for porters who gave lot of troubles. 1 week lost here might have spelled defeat in late Oct. Winds were not problem on face route but at ridge were very strong. Did have snow fall, block avalanche problems, rock avalanche cut fixed ropes and just missed climbers on exposed lower section of route several times, rock section not so difficult but snow section was sugar-snow and rib treacherously soft. Above C2 some days only 40-50m gained. Wind had smashed C5. No time left on 3 months air ticket. Total 3000m rope fixed on route. All technical climbing finished but after C5 destroyed by wind, would have taken 10 days to remount summit bid. |
| Accidents | Nothing very serious |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Asian Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452637 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s face-sw ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Emil Staszkow | M | 1941 | Poland | Climber | Krakow, Poland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Eugeniusz (Genek) Chrobak | M | 1939 | Poland | Leader | Krakow, Poland | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Maciej Berbeka | M | 1954 | Poland | Deputy Leader | Zakopane, Poland | Teacher & furniture designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Maciej Jozef Pawlikowski | M | 1951 | Poland | Climber | Nowy Sacz, Poland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazimierz Ambrozy | M | 1951 | Poland | Climber | Krakow, Poland | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikolaj Czyzewski | M | 1960 | Poland | Climber | Paris, France | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslaw Falco-Dasal | M | 1952 | Poland | Climber | Katowice, Poland | Engineer, geophysical | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislaw Zbigniew Dudek | M | 1950 | Poland | Climber | Krakow, Poland | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrez Karst | M | 1955 | Poland | Climber | Krakow, Poland | Engine mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Michal Kwasny | M | 1954 | Poland | Climber | Krakow, Poland | Engine mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Dean H. Smith | M | 1957 | Canada | Climber | Ottawa, Ontario | Biologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Iain Stewart-Patterson | M | 1960 | Canada | Climber | British Colombia | Outward Bound instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Wlodzimierz Stoinski | M | 1951 | Poland | Climber | Nowy Sacz, Poland | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Swider | M | 1959 | Poland | Climber | Nowy Sacz, Poland | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Anna Szermer | F | 1957 | Poland | Climber | Gdansk, Poland | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Jerzy Zajac | M | 1951 | Australia | Climber | Australia | Air-conditioning technician | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA186302 | AAJ | Chrobak, Eugeniusz | - | - | 61:255-256 (1987) | - |
| DHA186302 | MM | - | - | - | 114:12 (Mar 1987) | - |
| DHA186302 | - | Falco-Dasal, Miroslaw | Mniej-Wiecej Niz Dhaulagiri | Almapress, Czeladz | - | F05 |
| DHA186302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725503/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Face-Attempt | - | - | - |