Dhaulagiri I | 1986 NE Ridge from E of N Col

A Yugoslavia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1986 via NE Ridge from E of N Col, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 9th May 1986. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 966
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA186102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge from E of N Col
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Stane Belak
Sponsor Slovene Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-18
Summit Date 1986-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 42
Termination Date 1986-05-30
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7650m due to snow and icefall conditions (too much for 2-man alpine ascent)
High Point (m) 7650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4100m),C1(27/04,5850m),C2(08/05,7300m),xxx(09/05,7650m)
Route Notes BC at same place as last autumn for East Face climb C1 at snow hole on plateau (same as last autumn) C2 one tent on NE Ridge, which had joined at 6500m High point at NE Ridge. Not a single day without clouds from 7 or 8 am and snow in late morning. Climbed mostly at night after first week. When arrived BC there was 2m deep snow at BC. 2 May from C1 to 7000m in acclimatization climb towards normal route and back to C1. 8 May started summit push and 9 May reached same high point as last year and little higher, then down because of slab avalanche danger and down to BC on 10 May. 15 May again up and 18 May to 7300m tent in very strong wind. 20 May down because snowfall and gas gone. 23 May all way down to BC through dangerous icefall (Kregar tummy trouble). Again more snowfall, both very tired and decided to leave Nepal 8 June. Did not attempt E Face because they wanted finally to get to summit somehow, anyhow.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452461
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge from e of n col

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Designer & machine technician Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kregar M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA186102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:255 (1987) -
DHA186102 HJ Belak, Stane & Kregar, Marjan Dhaulagiri I East Face - 43:25-31 (1985-1986) -
DHA186102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725501/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -
DHA186102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/7/dhaulagiri-i-east-face/ - - -