Dhaulagiri I | 1985 E Face-NE Ridge (Macintyre Polish 1980 rte)

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via E Face-NE Ridge (Macintyre Polish 1980 rte), led by Jean Troillet. Summit reached on 8th December 1985. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 241
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA185401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1985
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-NE Ridge (Macintyre Polish 1980 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Jean Troillet
Sponsor Swiss Dhaulagiri Winter Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 29th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lete->Kalopani
Basecamp Date 1985-11-16
Summit Date 1985-12-08
Summit Time 1324
Summit Days 22
Total Days 24
Termination Date 1985-12-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/11,4100m),Biv1(01/12,5700m),Biv2(07/12,7700m),Smt(08/12)
Route Notes BC at 4100m very near Yugoslav BC Aut 1985 Biv2 at 7700m just 100m below where they joined ridge. In last days of Nov, looked around glacier, found couloir as ascent route and did some training. Started up on 1st Dec and on 2nd explored in areas of Biv1. 3rd back to BC after deciding on 2nd that route wanted to follow to left of MacIntyre route because too exposed for light, fast climb. Up again on 6th Dec at 12:30 am and reached to Biv1 at 6:00 am. Next day left 00:01 hrs. Climbed at night because in day light looking up too depressing to see how far you still have to go. 8th Dec left Biv2 at 9:30 am and got to top at 1:24 pm and down NE Ridge till returned to Biv1 site at 5700m at midnight 9th Dec at BC. Morani didn't feel well, not strong; left BC 5 Dec. Only 2 bivouacs: 1 on Col and 1 on face at about 7000m. Will start climbing at night with head lamps. During acclimatization in Nov will cache equipment at bottom of face (down from Col on large plateau at bottom of face). May climb to left of MacIntyre-Kurtyka route and reach summit via SE Ridge. Technical problems not great: the problem is the wind, so lost part of climb at highest altitude most exposed to wind, most difficult.
Accidents Only tiny frostbites
Achievement 1st winter ascent of East Face
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452308
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face-ne ridge (macintyre polish 1980 rte)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Erhard Loretan M 1959 Switzerland Climber Fribourg, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Robert Morand M 1958 Switzerland Climber Fribourg, Switzerland Welder Details Other expeditions
Pierre-Alain Steiner M 1960 Switzerland Climber Le Pont, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Fernand Troillet M 1948 Switzerland Leader Orsieres, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA185401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:247 (1986) -
DHA185401 HJ Troillet, Jean Winter Expedition to Dhaulagiri I, 1985 - 43:120-121 (1985-1986) -
DHA185401 MM - - - 108:13 (Mar 1986) -
DHA185401 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 Rugissants Editions La Sarine,Fribourg, Switzerland - -
DHA185401 - Ammann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen Verfallen Paulusverlag, Freiburg, Switzerland - -
DHA185401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624702/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-East-Face-in-Winter - - -
DHA185401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/21/expeditions-and-notes-43/ - - -