Dhaulagiri I | 1985 E Face-NE Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via E Face-NE Ridge, led by Stane Belak. Summit reached on 27th October 1985. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 223
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA185303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Face-NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Stane Belak
Sponsor Slovene Dhaulagiri E Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Ghorapani->Kalapani->BC (plateau at bottom of face)
Basecamp Date 1985-09-18
Summit Date 1985-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 39
Total Days 44
Termination Date 1985-11-01
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to ice cold winds and bad weather
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4100m),C1(02/10,5900m),Biv(26/10,7000m),xxx(27/10,7600m)
Route Notes BC east of glacier east of mountain C1 at 5900m at plateau at bottom of face. May put supply cache on NE Ridge, may go on ridge in acclimatization. Snow ridge on face will probably be route and this is very steep ice from 6200m to 7200m. Will join NE Ridge at 7500m. 2.8m deep snow at BC. Did not go to left of 1980 route because icefall is there. Only fixed rope was 200m very low on mountain. Most of climbing began midnight and climbed all night. 1st days in BC raining all the time and when climbing began were only 4 men (Beg and Brisar decided not to). At first was hard rock climbing, then heavy long snowfall and were on deep avalanching snow on same feature. After C1 established again much snow and 16 Oct started up to plateau. 24 Oct up from C1 for 1st time: to 7000m via normal route to acclimatize. 26 started up face and made biv at 7000m and 27 Oct to 7600m to ridge and [planned to] biv over on ridge but wind so strong had to descend at 3:00 am. Next 5 days terrible winds. Fierce cold winds following many days of new snow and planned only 1 month on mountain. Now food exhausted went to Kalapani after 27 Oct but weather still bad and gave up). Belak and Kregar got slight frostbite. "We are lucky men:" very big avalanche 26 Oct ice block just brushed one man. Another time huge serac fell 10 minutes after men crossed beneath. Many snow avalanches: climbed on small ridges as much as possible rather than couloirs for safety.
Accidents 2 members got slight frostbite (very lucky)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452266
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e face-ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrej Beg M 1961 Yugoslavia Climber Jesenice, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Law student Details Other expeditions
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-Srauf M 1940 Yugoslavia Leader Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Machine design technician Details Other expeditions
Marjan Brisar M 1953 Yugoslavia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Wood technician Details Other expeditions
Marjan Kregar M 1956 Yugoslavia Deputy Leader Kamnik, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Andrej Stremfelj M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Kranj, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Gymnastics teacher Details Other expeditions
Iztok Tomazin M 1960 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Krize, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA185303 AAJ Belak, Stane - - 60:249-250 (1986) -
DHA185303 HJ Belak, Stane & Kregar, Marjan Dhaulagiri I East Face - 43:25-31 (1985-1986) -
DHA185303 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
DHA185303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624900/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt-and-New-Route-up-the-East-Face - - -