Dhaulagiri I | 1985 NE Ridge

A Austria expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via NE Ridge, led by Peter Habeler. Summit reached on 24th September 1985. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 226
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA185302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Peter Habeler
Sponsor Tirolean-Bavarian Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach Beni->Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1985-09-15
Summit Date 1985-09-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 10
Termination Date 1985-09-25
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5400m due to constant snowfall and lack of manpower
High Point (m) 5400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,5000m),ABC(17/09,5200m),xxx(24/09,5400m)
Route Notes BC south of French Pass ABC along icefall south of BC (by Habeler, Dacher and Nima Tenzing) High point at beside icefall. The three men stayed in ABC two nights, then down to BC and visit to Czechoslovak BC. After returning to their own BC, Habeler packed up and left expedition (on 21st Sept, Nima says; on 23rd Habeler said on 27 Sept 85) while Dacher and Nima returned to ABC. Dacher and Nima tried to reach NE Col but in 4 hours climbing made little progress because difficult to cross icefall and much snowfall and returned to BC. They had no fixed ropes and plan had been for Habeler and Dacher to climb alone, leaving Nima at BC. 27 Sept 85 Put ABC at foot of French Pass, and was looking for way through glacier; made ABC 17 Sept. Habeler left 4 days ago. No higher camp possible in so much snowfall. Dacher and Nima Sherpa will go to NE Col and then Dacher tries solo ascent. Has unlimited time. Every day lot of snow. Have never seen avalanches like these on Dhaulagiri; every 2-3 hours that mountain loses its snow.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452233
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michel Dacher M 1933 W Germany Climber Peiting, Bavaria, W Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Habeler M 1942 Austria Leader Mayrhofen, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nima Tenzing Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA185302 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 60:247 (1986) -
DHA185302 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
DHA185302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624703/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -