Dhaulagiri I | 1985 W Face (to 7250m)
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via W Face (to 7250m), led by Jiri Novak. Summit reached on 25th October 1985. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 192 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA185301 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face (to 7250m) |
| Route 2 | SW Pillar (to 6800m) |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Jiri Novak |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Expedition Dhaulagiri 1985 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy |
| Approach | Myagdi Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1985-09-08 |
| Summit Date | 1985-10-25 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 47 |
| Total Days | 48 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7250m due to wind and lack of food |
| High Point (m) | 7250 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 18 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08/09,3700m),Dep(09/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5900m),C3(06/10,6300m),C4(20/10,6900m),xxx(25-26/10,7250m) |
| Route Notes | BC at Myagdi Khola 2 hours NNE of Puchbar Deposit at 4300m at right side of West Face C2 at 5900m at right side of West Face C3 at 6300m at right side of West Face C4 at 6900m at right side of West Face. 2000m of difficulty between 4500m and 6500m on pillar towards South Ridge of W Face, very hard rock climbing. This is one of highest unclimbed lines on any mountain. SW Pillar alpine-style team reached 6800m before weather turned bad. After 10th Oct, entire team concentrated on W Face route. 3 days without any rain, 10 other days half-day good weather, all other days from arrival to departure BC bad weather (rain/snow) plus strong wind towards end. Stopped climb on 26th because strong wind destroying all tents as 24th and 25th nights (so 26th party used snow cave at 7100m night before). On 26th all down in BC. Meanwhile from 2 Oct to 12 Oct another party Bozik, Demjan and Rakoncaj went to 6800m as French SW Pillar in alpine-style, but Demjan had infected foot and weather bad so descended. From 14 Oct only 10 members in BC while 8 not so strong sent to KTM to save food. On face very hard rock climbing for 1600m. 24th Sept between C1 and C2 (about 5600m) Krizo fell 50m with snow and twisted knee, needing to be brought down. "Same avalanches with people" but no one injured. |
| Accidents | 1 member fell 50m with snow and twisted knee (needing to be brought down); avalanches with people but no one injured |
| Achievement | 1st attempt on this W Face route |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2452264 |
| Year | 1985 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face (to 7250m) |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Karel Benedikt | M | 1947 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Designer | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Bozik | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavel Cicvarek | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Turnov, Czechoslovakia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Zoltan Demjan | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Zdislav Drlik | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Furnace stoker in hotel | Details Other expeditions |
| Livia Klembarova | F | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Kosice, Czechoslovakia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Frantisek Korl | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Kosice, Czechoslovakia | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Anton Krizo | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Popard, Czechoslovakia | Technical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaroslav Krizo | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Dobsina, Czechoslovakia | Technical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ladislav Kyrc | M | 1957 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Spisska Nova Ves, Czechoslovakia | Construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef (Pepino) Nezerka | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Lomnice N/Popelkou, Czechoslovakia | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Rolando Nicco | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Ayas, Aosta, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiri Novak | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Kladno, Czechoslovakia | Teacher, technical high school | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonin Prochazka | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef Rakoncaj | M | 1951 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Turnov, Czechoslovakia | Designer of eyeglass frames | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef Rybicka | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Teplice, Czechoslovakia | Construction | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Stepanek | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Research engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Ervin Velic | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Lopej, Czechoslovakia | Middle school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA185301 | AAJ | Novak, Jiri | - | - | 60:247-249 (1986) | - |
| DHA185301 | MM | - | - | - | 108:11 (Mar 1986) | - |
| DHA185301 | MM | Novak, Jiri | Dhaulagiri Trilogy | - | 128:16-21 (Jul 1989) | - |
| DHA185301 | - | Rakoncaj, Josef | Tulakem Ve Vetru Himalaje | Edice Okamiziky, Hradci Kralov, Czechoslovakia | - | R37 |
| DHA185301 | DAV | - | - | - | 111:127 (1987) | - |
| DHA185301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624704/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face-and-Southwest-Buttress-Attempts | - | - | - |