Dhaulagiri I | 1985 W Face (to 7250m)

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via W Face (to 7250m), led by Jiri Novak. Summit reached on 25th October 1985. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 192
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA185301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1985
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (to 7250m)
Route 2 SW Pillar (to 6800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Jiri Novak
Sponsor Czechoslovak Expedition Dhaulagiri 1985
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach Myagdi Khola
Basecamp Date 1985-09-08
Summit Date 1985-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 47
Total Days 48
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7250m due to wind and lack of food
High Point (m) 7250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/09,3700m),Dep(09/09,4300m),C1(19/09,5100m),C2(30/09,5900m),C3(06/10,6300m),C4(20/10,6900m),xxx(25-26/10,7250m)
Route Notes BC at Myagdi Khola 2 hours NNE of Puchbar Deposit at 4300m at right side of West Face C2 at 5900m at right side of West Face C3 at 6300m at right side of West Face C4 at 6900m at right side of West Face. 2000m of difficulty between 4500m and 6500m on pillar towards South Ridge of W Face, very hard rock climbing. This is one of highest unclimbed lines on any mountain. SW Pillar alpine-style team reached 6800m before weather turned bad. After 10th Oct, entire team concentrated on W Face route. 3 days without any rain, 10 other days half-day good weather, all other days from arrival to departure BC bad weather (rain/snow) plus strong wind towards end. Stopped climb on 26th because strong wind destroying all tents as 24th and 25th nights (so 26th party used snow cave at 7100m night before). On 26th all down in BC. Meanwhile from 2 Oct to 12 Oct another party Bozik, Demjan and Rakoncaj went to 6800m as French SW Pillar in alpine-style, but Demjan had infected foot and weather bad so descended. From 14 Oct only 10 members in BC while 8 not so strong sent to KTM to save food. On face very hard rock climbing for 1600m. 24th Sept between C1 and C2 (about 5600m) Krizo fell 50m with snow and twisted knee, needing to be brought down. "Same avalanches with people" but no one injured.
Accidents 1 member fell 50m with snow and twisted knee (needing to be brought down); avalanches with people but no one injured
Achievement 1st attempt on this W Face route
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452264
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face (to 7250m)

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Karel Benedikt M 1947 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Designer Details Other expeditions
Peter Bozik M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Pavel Cicvarek M 1948 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Turnov, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Zoltan Demjan M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Geologist Details Other expeditions
Zdislav Drlik M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Popard, Czechoslovakia Furnace stoker in hotel Details Other expeditions
Livia Klembarova F 1955 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Kosice, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Frantisek Korl M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Kosice, Czechoslovakia Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Anton Krizo M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Popard, Czechoslovakia Technical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jaroslav Krizo M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Dobsina, Czechoslovakia Technical engineer Details Other expeditions
Ladislav Kyrc M 1957 Czechoslovakia Climber Spisska Nova Ves, Czechoslovakia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Josef (Pepino) Nezerka M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Lomnice N/Popelkou, Czechoslovakia Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Rolando Nicco M 1957 Italy Climber Ayas, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jiri Novak M 1945 Czechoslovakia Leader Kladno, Czechoslovakia Teacher, technical high school Details Other expeditions
Antonin Prochazka M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Turnov, Czechoslovakia Designer of eyeglass frames Details Other expeditions
Josef Rybicka M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Teplice, Czechoslovakia Construction Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Stepanek M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Research engineer Details Other expeditions
Ervin Velic M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Lopej, Czechoslovakia Middle school teacher Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA185301 AAJ Novak, Jiri - - 60:247-249 (1986) -
DHA185301 MM - - - 108:11 (Mar 1986) -
DHA185301 MM Novak, Jiri Dhaulagiri Trilogy - 128:16-21 (Jul 1989) -
DHA185301 - Rakoncaj, Josef Tulakem Ve Vetru Himalaje Edice Okamiziky, Hradci Kralov, Czechoslovakia - R37
DHA185301 DAV - - - 111:127 (1987) -
DHA185301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624704/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face-and-Southwest-Buttress-Attempts - - -