Dhaulagiri I | 1985 NE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1985 via NE Ridge, led by Reinhold Messner. Summit reached on 15th May 1985. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 169
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA185102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1985
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Reinhold Messner
Sponsor Messner Dhaulagiri Expedition 1985
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 28th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1985-05-12
Summit Date 1985-05-15
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 3
Total Days 5
Termination Date 1985-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Annapurna I (ANN1-851-01)
Campsites BC(12/05,4600m),Biv1(13/05,6300m),Biv2(14/05,7350m),Smt(15/05),Biv3(15/05,7450m)
Route Notes BC at normal site Biv1 at 700m above col on beginning of ridge Biv2 at NE Ridge. Stayed to right side of whole glacier, to right side of icefall to Col. On 14 May climbed the whole ridge to site of 1984 spring highest point. Next morning on terrain new to them and kept to left of big snow field to summit ridge. There were five summits on this ridge and the 5th one is the highest one. Most expeditions probably do not actually reach true summit in mist. In descent had to stay on ridge but for one hour had painful electricity pulling Messner's hair. Left biv 2 at 6:00 am and returned at 4:00 pm. Tukuche - 8 May 85 We are on the way to it [Dhaulagiri]; only 3 porters, 2 mailrunners, 1 Sherpa, 1 cook, 1 LO and 2 members. I think it is the smallest expedition to a 8000er peak ever. On Annapurna we were very lucky, the last day of good weather we could reach the summit. (Bad wind, still our feet hurting from being frostbitten on the summit day). The second attempt you can here from the friends [Patscheider, Rieser, Schiestl]. They should be in KTM. Dhaulagiri BC - 16 May 85 On May 12 we reached (via Dhampus and French Col) the BC (4600m). On May 13 Hans Kammerlander and I climbed up to the Col (2 Sherpas helped carry, since Hans and I had to fix a few ropes). We two went ahead, the Sherpas turned back to BC. We had our first bivouac on 6300m. Windy. On May 14 Hans and I climbed the NE Ridge and had a biv of 7350m. Very windy and snow in the afternoon. Night not bad. On May 15 we reached the summit - a very very long ridge - on 12:00 hours - stayed for half an hour (windy, electricity in the air, pains in the hair, sounds on the ice axes, dangerous). On our way back we had bad visibility, wind; we reached the biv at 7350m, very bad night. On May 16th we climbed back for BC downwards. Not any serious problems. Saila and Phurba observing us with the binoculars from the BC came up to ours to help. On May 17 we will leave BC. On 17th May Hans and I will try to fly from Jomsom to Pokhara.
Accidents None (was much warmer than on Annapurna)
Achievement 1st spring ascent of 8000ers
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452101
Year 1985
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander M 1956 Italy Climber Ahornach, Bolzano, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Leader Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy Author, lecturer & alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA185102 AAJ - - - 60:242 (1986) -
DHA185102 MM - - - 105:10 (Sep 1985) -
DHA185102 - Kammerlander, Hans Absteig zum Erfolg Rudolf Rother, Munich - K21
DHA185102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624204/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Northwest-Face-and-Dhaulagiri - - -