Dhaulagiri I | 1984 NE Ridge

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via NE Ridge, led by Adam Bilczewski. Summit reached on 21st January 1985. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 988
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA184402
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Adam Bilczewski
Sponsor Polish Winter Himalaya Expedition Dhaulagiri 1984-85
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 27th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-12-04
Summit Date 1985-01-21
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 48
Total Days 52
Termination Date 1985-01-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/12,3700m),BC2(04/12,3600m),ABC(07,11/12,4600m),C1(15/12,5200m),C2(20/12,5900m),C3(12/01,6800m),C4A(13/01,7400m),C4B(20/01,7600m),Smt(21/01)
Route Notes BC at Tsaurabang, Myagdi Glacier, established at 3700m on 4 Dec, was destroyed by wind from an avalanche off the West Face on the same day and relocated on the same day 100m lower. ABC behind big stones in 2nd location C1 midway between ABC and NE Col near end of 1st icefall C2 at NE Col C3 on ridge just below step C4 (A) on ridge just left of it on shelf under small serac in cave. Porters refused to carry loads beyond Tsaurabang because of fear of avalanches and last pitch beyond Tsaurabang is very difficult for load carrying. 1st ABC destroyed by wind-carried stones and sand and another one placed 200m away (but not up) from it behind stones. Had decided N Face impossible and changed to NE Ridge route; decided on evening of 14th Dec because face very great danger of avalanche (and LO gave no difficulty). 20th Dec to 12th Jan almost fortnight of snowfall. 1st summit attack on 15th by Czok and Kukuczka got to 7800m at 1:00 pm at old camp; went down again because realized this rate of ascent beyond camp as too slow for summit in snowy weather; got to 7900m at 2:30 pm then to C3 on 15th and C2 16th. 2nd summit team 2 members reached C4. Czok frostbitten toes beginning with avalanche on 20 Jan which damaged his overboots and became more frostbitten during 21st summit attack - other frostbite cases. On 15th-16th Jan in horrible weather, strong hurricane wind and descended to C2 with Machnik having frostbitten fingers. Czok and Kukuczka moved up from C2 to C4 17 Jan. 20 Jan they were hit by snow avalanches, damaging tent. Moved C4 2m higher while Kuras in shock and frostbite from avalanche descended. Czok - 8 Feb 1985 Told to Czok: Back at about 7500m near ridge [body] seen during 1st attack (probably died here). Perhaps Sherpa sirdar from expedition spring 1979; otherwise someone from 1950's. No technical difficulties on climb up. Of 23 days Kukuczka was on mountain 2 days clear which meant strong wind while cloudy days not so much wind but snowfall which was problem because deep and avalanching which lightly buried first C4. 21 Jan cloudy with light wind till on summit ridge when somewhat stronger. Left camp at 7:00 am and on top 3:30 pm: some places deep snow. On descent had to biv because couldn't find route and after wandering in dark so, made cave and waited for light and then no problem to descend. No further summit attempts because 6 frostbite cases. North Face impossible: strong wind and much snow. 6 members frostbite: Czok's toes black, others no so much frozen (fingers). Avalanches buried C4 but no one hurt. Kukuczka arrived at ABC 30 Dec and left it with the team on 25 Jan.
Accidents Czok frostbitten toes begining with avalanche on Jan 20 which damaged his overboots; more frostbite during Jan 21 summit bid; other frostbite cases
Achievement 1st winter ascent without oxygen
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451986
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Janusz Baranek M 1937 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Adam Bilczewski M 1934 Poland Leader Gliwice, Poland Ceramics engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej (Leszek) Czok M 1948 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Malgorzata Fromenty-Bilczewska F 1956 Poland Member Paris, France Student of French language Details Other expeditions
Julian Kubowicz M 1950 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Motor mechanic & truck driver Details Other expeditions
Miroslaw Kuras M 1942 Poland Climber Zywiec, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Machnik M 1953 Poland Climber Gliwice, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Janusz Skorek M 1950 Poland Deputy Leader Gliwice, Poland Power engineer Details Other expeditions
Waclaw Sonelski M 1947 Poland Climber Bytom, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Krzysztof Witkowski M 1954 Poland Exp Doctor Gliwice, Poland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Kukuczka M 1948 Poland Climber Katowice, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA184402 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:293 (1985) -
DHA184402 AAJ - - - 60:246 (1986) -
DHA184402 HJ Bilczewski, Adam Dhaulagiri 1984-85 - 43:21-24 (1985-1986) -
DHA184402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy My Vertical World Mountaineers, Seattle - K354
DHA184402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy Swiat Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - -
DHA184402 - Kukuczka, Jerzy Na Szczytach Swiata Krajowa Agencia Wydawnicza, Katowice, Poland - K354
DHA184402 - Machnik, Andrzej Dwa Zimowe Szturmy, Manaslu Dhaulagiri Explo, Gliwice, Poland - -
DHA184402 MM - - - 102:16 (Mar 1985) -
DHA184402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198624605/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Ascent-January-1985-Correction - - -
DHA184402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529302/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Ascent - - -
DHA184402 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/6/dhaulagiri-1984-85/ - - -