Dhaulagiri I | 1984 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via NE Ridge, led by Haruyuki Endo. Summit reached on 6th December 1984. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 986
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA184401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Haruyuki Endo
Sponsor Yeti Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-11-24
Summit Date 1984-12-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 13
Termination Date 1984-12-07
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6700m due to wind causing Ozaki to lose interest and Matsumoto getting sick
High Point (m) 6700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/11,4700m),C1(03/12,5700m),xxx(06/12,6700m)
Route Notes BC at usual site C1 at North Col by 3 Japanese in snowcave High point on ridge. Ozaki to BC on 4th Dec because very strong wind (completely different from earlier winds - blowing much snow like avalanche - kept filling cave - had to sleep in biv tent), so gave up because too uncomfortable and "I want to watch my son's face" (son was with mother below BC). Since now with new family, summit not such big ambition. Endo and Matsumoto stayed at C1 and on 6th Dec reached C2 site with loads slept at C1 (had spent 4th carrying loads from deposit below C1 and resting 5th). 7th Dec Matsumoto's face showed edema and too dangerous for Endo go up alone. Winter, so expedition finished. Even camp's tent was picked by wind with members in it on 8/9th Dec.
Accidents None except Matsumoto altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451940
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Haruyuki Endo M 1957 Japan Leader Nagoya, Japan Trains climbers & trekkers at high altitudes Details Other expeditions
Masaki Matsumoto M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takashi Ozaki M 1952 Japan Climber Kameyama, Mie, Japan & Kathmandu, Nepal Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA184401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:293 (1985) -
DHA184401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529303/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Attempt - - -