Dhaulagiri I | 1984 S Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via S Ridge, led by Pierre Beghin. Summit reached on 4th October 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1027
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA184302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Pierre Beghin
Sponsor City of Grenoble Expedition Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 25th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-11
Summit Date 1984-10-04
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites LowBC(11/09,3600m),BC(17/10,5000m),C1(20/09,5600m),Biv1(01/10,6400m),Biv2(02/10,7000m),Biv3(03/10,7400m),Smt(04/10)
Route Notes BC near Japanese 1982 autumn BC site. Fixed rope for 4 days from C1 to 6400m biv which reached 1 Oct. Some other members went as high as C1 but no higher. Beghin and Roche made summit push alone together from 1 Oct. Reached top 1:30 pm after 4 hrs climb on very long flat, windy plateau and returned to tent at 7400m. On 5th to 6400m site and 6th to high BC. So from C1 was pure alpine-style in 6 days to top and back to high BC. Most difficult sector was C1 to 1st biv, 6300m vertical rock wall and ten to 7000m is sharp ridge where had to be careful. At 7000m ws 200m-high hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degrees and slabs at altitude again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge. High hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degree iced slabs at altitudes again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge. 1 Sherpa to C1 once and 4 from low BC to high BC.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451877
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pierre Beghin M 1951 France Leader Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse, Isere, France Engineer, snow mechanics Details Other expeditions
Jean-Noel Roche M 1949 France Climber Lanslevillard, Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Lallet M - France Film Team - - Details Other expeditions
Anthoine Morat M - France Film Team - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA184302 AAJ Beghin, Pierre - - 59:291-293 (1985) -
DHA184302 - Beghin, Pierre Passion d'Himalayas Editions Glenat, Grenoble - B234
DHA184302 MM - - - 102:13 (Mar 1985) -
DHA184302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529105/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Ridge - - -