Dhaulagiri I | 1984 W Face-NW Ridge
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Jiri Novak. Summit reached on 23rd October 1984. 20 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1030 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA184301 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Jiri Novak |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Mountaineering Expedition Dhaulagiri 1984 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 26th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1984-08-27 |
| Summit Date | 1984-10-23 |
| Summit Time | 1030 |
| Summit Days | 57 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 20 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | True |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(27/08,3700m),C1(03/09,4700m),C2(16/09,5700m),C3(22/09,6400m),C4(01/10,6700m),C5(04/10,7600m),Biv(22/10,7900m),Smt(23/10) |
| Route Notes | C5 on NW Ridge at small saddle on NW Ridge. Most difficult technically between C1 and C4 and from C5 to biv - steep ice: snow and ice 60 degrees, rock sometimes overhanging. Biggest problem was dangerous spots between C1 and C2 snow couloir, traverse 200m, and serac area below C4 sending down ice and route lay around seracs. Simon on top at 10:30 am, Stejskal and Jakes at 11:00 am, and these latter two met Silhan descending saying hurry to reach C4 but would wait at biv and cook there. When others returned to biv, he wasn't there. Stejskal looked for Simon and on snowy ridge and snow 100m above biv marks in snow leading to W Face. Other members might have tried for summit but with Simon's death, climb stopped. "I think we were very lucky" not to have been hit by avalanche. Oxygen used by frostbitten (fingers) Silhan and Rajtar with serious altitude sickness. Simon died in fall during descent from summit to bivouac. Lhotse Shar more difficult technically but this route on Dhaulagiri I more dangerous. Impossible to climb W Face of Dhaulagiri in pre-monsoon on left side - on right side of face it is safe but very difficult rock. 23 Oct Jakes started 7:00 am, Simon and Stejskal at 8:00 am. Easy route from western summit to main summit but strong wind made moving difficult. |
| Accidents | 'I think we were very lucky' not to have been hit by avalanche; oxygen used by Silhan (frostbitten fingers) and by Rajtar (serious altitude sickness); Simon fell to death on descent |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451896 |
| Year | 1984 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face-nw ridge |
Members
20 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan Doubal | M | 1960 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Geodesics student, just graduated | Details Other expeditions |
| Zuzana Hofmannova | F | 1959 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Usti nad Labem, Czechoslovakia | Railway technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Karel Jakes | M | 1953 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranske Matliare, Czechoslovakia | Paints & repairs high buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Karel Jerhot | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Richard Kastav | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia | Bricklayer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jindrich (Jindra) Martis | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Polianka, Czechoslovakia | Locksmith | Details Other expeditions |
| Bohuslav Mrozek | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bystrice nad Olsi, Czechoslovakia | Blacksmith & locksmith | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Mzourek | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Teplice, Czechoslovakia | Glass factory production manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiri Novak | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Kladno, Czechoslovakia | Construction engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Patocka | M | 1946 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Mnichovo Hradiste, Czechoslovakia | Driver in truck factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Jiri Pelikan | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Pavol Rajtar | M | 1936 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef Rybicka | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bohosudov, Czechoslovakia | Locksmith | Details Other expeditions |
| Petr Schnabl | M | 1946 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Stanislav Silhan | M | 1954 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia | Paints & repairs high buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Simon | M | 1959 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Liberec, Czechoslovakia | Motorcar mechanic (repairman) | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Smid | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia | 'Free Style of Life' (writes & lectures on mountaineering) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Physicist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alena Stehlikova | F | 1953 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Liberec, Czechoslovakia | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Gianluigi Visentin | M | 1947 | Italy | Climber | Marghera, Venezia, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA184301 | AAJ | Novak, Jiri | - | - | 59:293 (1985) | - |
| DHA184301 | HJ | Smida, V. & Novak, Jiri | Dhaulagiri West Face | - | 42:166-167 (1984-1985) | - |
| DHA184301 | - | Smid, Miroslav | Ze Zivota Horolezce | Olympia, Prague | - | S605 |
| DHA184301 | - | Smid, Miroslav | Dva Kroky Od Vrcholu | Mlada Fronta, Prague | - | S604 |
| DHA184301 | - | Stejskal, Jaryk & Vranka, Milan | Zabudni na Everest | Sport, Bratislava | - | S736 |
| DHA184301 | MM | - | - | - | 100:14 (Nov 1984) | - |
| DHA184301 | MM | - | - | - | 102:13 (Mar 1985) | - |
| DHA184301 | MM | Novak, Jiri | Dhaulagiri Trilogy | - | 128:16-21 (Jul 1989) | - |
| DHA184301 | DAV | - | - | - | 110:175 (1986) | - |
| DHA184301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529301/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face | - | - | - |
| DHA184301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/21/expeditions-and-notes-42/ | - | - | - |