Dhaulagiri I | 1984 W Face-NW Ridge

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Jiri Novak. Summit reached on 23rd October 1984. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1030
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA184301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Jiri Novak
Sponsor Czechoslovak Mountaineering Expedition Dhaulagiri 1984
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 26th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-08-27
Summit Date 1984-10-23
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 57
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 20
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/08,3700m),C1(03/09,4700m),C2(16/09,5700m),C3(22/09,6400m),C4(01/10,6700m),C5(04/10,7600m),Biv(22/10,7900m),Smt(23/10)
Route Notes C5 on NW Ridge at small saddle on NW Ridge. Most difficult technically between C1 and C4 and from C5 to biv - steep ice: snow and ice 60 degrees, rock sometimes overhanging. Biggest problem was dangerous spots between C1 and C2 snow couloir, traverse 200m, and serac area below C4 sending down ice and route lay around seracs. Simon on top at 10:30 am, Stejskal and Jakes at 11:00 am, and these latter two met Silhan descending saying hurry to reach C4 but would wait at biv and cook there. When others returned to biv, he wasn't there. Stejskal looked for Simon and on snowy ridge and snow 100m above biv marks in snow leading to W Face. Other members might have tried for summit but with Simon's death, climb stopped. "I think we were very lucky" not to have been hit by avalanche. Oxygen used by frostbitten (fingers) Silhan and Rajtar with serious altitude sickness. Simon died in fall during descent from summit to bivouac. Lhotse Shar more difficult technically but this route on Dhaulagiri I more dangerous. Impossible to climb W Face of Dhaulagiri in pre-monsoon on left side - on right side of face it is safe but very difficult rock. 23 Oct Jakes started 7:00 am, Simon and Stejskal at 8:00 am. Easy route from western summit to main summit but strong wind made moving difficult.
Accidents 'I think we were very lucky' not to have been hit by avalanche; oxygen used by Silhan (frostbitten fingers) and by Rajtar (serious altitude sickness); Simon fell to death on descent
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451896
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jan Doubal M 1960 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Geodesics student, just graduated Details Other expeditions
Zuzana Hofmannova F 1959 Czechoslovakia Climber Usti nad Labem, Czechoslovakia Railway technician Details Other expeditions
Karel Jakes M 1953 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranske Matliare, Czechoslovakia Paints & repairs high buildings Details Other expeditions
Karel Jerhot M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Richard Kastav M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia Bricklayer Details Other expeditions
Jindrich (Jindra) Martis M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranska Polianka, Czechoslovakia Locksmith Details Other expeditions
Bohuslav Mrozek M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Bystrice nad Olsi, Czechoslovakia Blacksmith & locksmith Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Mzourek M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Teplice, Czechoslovakia Glass factory production manager Details Other expeditions
Jiri Novak M 1945 Czechoslovakia Leader Kladno, Czechoslovakia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Jan Patocka M 1946 Czechoslovakia Climber Mnichovo Hradiste, Czechoslovakia Driver in truck factory Details Other expeditions
Jiri Pelikan M 1952 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Pavol Rajtar M 1936 Czechoslovakia Climber Tatranska Lomnica, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Josef Rybicka M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Bohosudov, Czechoslovakia Locksmith Details Other expeditions
Petr Schnabl M 1946 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Teacher Details Other expeditions
Stanislav Silhan M 1954 Czechoslovakia Climber Jablonec nad Nisou, Czechoslovakia Paints & repairs high buildings Details Other expeditions
Jan Simon M 1959 Czechoslovakia Climber Liberec, Czechoslovakia Motorcar mechanic (repairman) Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Smid M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia 'Free Style of Life' (writes & lectures on mountaineering) Details Other expeditions
Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal M 1949 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Physicist Details Other expeditions
Alena Stehlikova F 1953 Czechoslovakia Climber Liberec, Czechoslovakia Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Gianluigi Visentin M 1947 Italy Climber Marghera, Venezia, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA184301 AAJ Novak, Jiri - - 59:293 (1985) -
DHA184301 HJ Smida, V. & Novak, Jiri Dhaulagiri West Face - 42:166-167 (1984-1985) -
DHA184301 - Smid, Miroslav Ze Zivota Horolezce Olympia, Prague - S605
DHA184301 - Smid, Miroslav Dva Kroky Od Vrcholu Mlada Fronta, Prague - S604
DHA184301 - Stejskal, Jaryk & Vranka, Milan Zabudni na Everest Sport, Bratislava - S736
DHA184301 MM - - - 100:14 (Nov 1984) -
DHA184301 MM - - - 102:13 (Mar 1985) -
DHA184301 MM Novak, Jiri Dhaulagiri Trilogy - 128:16-21 (Jul 1989) -
DHA184301 DAV - - - 110:175 (1986) -
DHA184301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529301/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-West-Face - - -
DHA184301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/21/expeditions-and-notes-42/ - - -