Dhaulagiri I | 1984 NE Ridge

A Austria expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1984 via NE Ridge, led by Wolfgang Nairz. Summit reached on 8th May 1984. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1046
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA184101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Wolfgang Nairz
Sponsor Dhaulagiri S and N Tirol Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-04-03
Summit Date 1984-05-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1984-05-09
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to icefall and many dangerous crevasses
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,4600m),C1(06/04,5650m),C2(17/04,6600m),C3(08/05,7400m),xxx(08/05,7400m)
Route Notes BC a little below Japanese Winter 1983 C1 north of NE Col 2/3 of distance on Dhaulagiri map to French pass C2 on NE Ridge. C2 buried 3-4m snow and completed destroyed when reached crevasse on 27 April. 3 May new C2 established in big cave which was safe but tents damaged by wind. On 3 May ropes fixed to 7000m in attempt to reach C3 site at 7400m, but heavy loads and wind stopped them at 7000m. Messner party should have gone on to top on 9 May but weather too bad. Then decided needed 2 weeks of little more snow and wind to blow existing snow away. Nice route if not too much snow bringing avalanches and even for 3-4 days clear weather, snow very deep making progress slow or impossible. No technical problems except between BC to C1 is converging icefall. Between BC and C1 many dangerous crevasses. 1 Sherpa fell into crevasse but not really injured. Both climbing parties were in avalanches between C1 and C2 but again not hurt.
Accidents 1 Sherpa fell into crevasse but not really injured; both climbing parties were in avalanches between C1 and C2 but not hurt
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451728
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Robert Alpoegger M 1947 Italy Climber Gossensuss, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hans Peter Eisendle M 1956 Italy Climber Sterzing, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Johann (Hans) Kammerlander M 1956 Italy Climber Sand in Taufers, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rudolf Alexander (Rudi) Mayr M 1956 Austria Climber Voels, Tirol, Austria Freelance writer Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Climber Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy Professional alpinist, writer & lecturer Details Other expeditions
Gottfried (Friedl) Mutschlechner M 1949 Italy Climber Brunico, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Nairz M 1944 Austria Leader Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Director of mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Konrad Renzler M 1937 Italy Climber Rasen Antholz, Balzano, Italy Wholesaler of food and wines Details Other expeditions
Franz Rhomberg M 1927 Switzerland Exp Doctor Zurich, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Jurg Steger M 1938 Switzerland Climber Zunikon, Zurich, Switzerland Dental surgeon Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA184101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:291 (1985) -
DHA184101 - Mayr, Rudi Stille Abenteuer Steiger, Innsbruck - M248
DHA184101 - Mutschlechner, Friedl Einer Geht Immer Voraus Rudolf Rother, Munich - M585
DHA184101 - Nairz, Wolfgang Nepal, Durchwandern und Erleben Steiger Verlag, Innsbruck - N12
DHA184101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198529104/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -