Dhaulagiri I | 1983 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1983 via NE Ridge, led by Tsuneo Hasegawa. Summit reached on 3rd November 1983. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 111
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA183301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Tsuneo Hasegawa
Sponsor U-Tan Club Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1983
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries China
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-09-27
Summit Date 1983-11-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 37
Total Days 40
Termination Date 1983-11-06
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7700m due to high winds
High Point (m) 7700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/09,4900m),TempC1(30/09,5100m),C1.ABC-NECol(08/10,5700m),C2(18/10,6600m),C3(01/11,7500m),xxx(03/11,7700m)
Route Notes BC at usual NE Ridge route site. Wind too strong; [Hasegawa and Ishii] were going for summit 3 Nov from C3, but went to ABC. After that Hasegawa tried alone for top on 5 Nov from ABC to top on same day. Left 1:00 am from ABC, but Chin coming down from C2 to ABC that day and Chin did not reach ABC and Hasegawa looked for him and thus diverted from summit bid. Waited for daylight, found Chin at 7:30 am in biv and came down with him. No other summit bid because 17th Nov time limit. Hasegawa did not try face because ridge route leader Yoshio was in bad condition (stayed BC a while then left 20 Oct), so Hasegawa had to take over as ridge leader. He hopes to make a solo ascent of an 8000er sometime in future. Main problem was snowfall in which lost temporary C1 and then high winds broke tents at C3. Chin died below BC apparently from altitude problem. Had climbed very slowly throughout, though went to 7100m in carry intended for C3. 4 members in temporary C1 in avalanche but not hurt and went to ABC. This only avalanche. 2 members slight frostbite. Yoshio sick (nature of illness not clear to other members). Shrestha, Tourism - 14 Nov 1983 Chin died on Chambabarg Kharka hill on Nov 7 at 13:00 hours. Left BC Nov 6 with expedition but could not keep pace with group and left behind and spent 6 Nov night in glacier below BC. Nov 7 Kazumi Nishihira (1956, Hiroshima) and 1 Sherpa (Dawa Thundup) went to look for him and found him in bad condition and took him down (carried) but at 1:00 pm Chin died. Miss Kei Inoue massaged Chin's heart but failed to revive him. Body cremated on 8 Nov on C. hill. Health of all others good. Ishii and Toba arrived KTM last night. Shrestha, Tourism - 24 Oct 1983 C1 C2 6600m (date?) established by Nobutaka Kusano and Masayoshi Utsumi. All well. Weather continous snow, so climbing slow if necessary maybe ask 1 week extension [were granted 1 week extension]. Hasegawa & Chin - 16 Sept 1983 Hasegawa arrived KTM 15 Sept and leaves 19 Sept. Maybe waits for Chin's permit if leave KTM 19 Sept, arrive BC 1 Oct and climbs ridge first participating in making the camps and go as far as C3 at 7500m in perhaps 2 weeks to C3. Not to summit on this route then 1 week in BC and start solo ascent N Face maybe 25 Oct. 1 week to 10 days at first gate to about 6000m and return to BC. Finally push BC to summit with an summit 29 or 30 Oct and then descend via NW Ridge. N Face route - new, not Pear route On face difficult rock band at 7500m area As Hasegawa descends ridge, other members may be in camps on ridge. Hasegawa has climbed Aconcagua South Face solo in winter in cold and very windy weather, so Dhaulagiri in late Oct "no problem." Also been to 8000m on Everest in great cold. He can arrive BC and go up immediately since he goes to 7000m twice every year (thus is acclimatized). This will be 2nd solo ascent of Dhaulagiri I. Kamuro made solo ascent but used Canadians C3 and fixed rope.
Accidents Chin died from altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451540
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chikahiro Chin M 1953 China Climber Kanagawa-shi, Japan Office worker, computer company Details Other expeditions
Tooru Fuji M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Restaurant worker Details Other expeditions
Tsuneo Hasegawa M 1947 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kei Inoue F 1955 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Ishii M 1952 Japan Film Team Nagareyama, Chiba, Japan Professional photographer Details Other expeditions
Nobutaka Kusano M 1948 Japan Climber Hatano, Kanagawa, Japan Custodian of a mountain cottage Details Other expeditions
Mitsuru Nagamachi M 1948 Japan Film Team Yokohama, Japan Movie cameraman Details Other expeditions
Yoshihiro Nakazato M 1960 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Economics student (Chuoh University) Details Other expeditions
Kazumi Nishihira M 1956 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takeshi (Tsuyoshi) Ono M 1945 Japan Climbing Leader Niiza, Saitama, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Toshinori Toba M 1957 Japan Climber Tatebayashi, Gunma, Japan Staff member, family-owned auto-parts factory Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Togashi M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Office worker, shipping company Details Other expeditions
Katsumi Tsunoda M 1949 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Boiler engineer Details Other expeditions
Masayoshi Utsumi M 1956 Japan Climber Chino, Nagano, Japan Employee in mountain lodge Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yoshio M 1937 Japan Deputy Leader Funaba-shi, Chiba, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA183301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:261 (1984) -
DHA183301 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
DHA183301 IWA - - - 105:202 (1984) -
DHA183301 IWA - - - 105:48 (1984) -
DHA183301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198426102/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Attempt - - -