Dhaulagiri I | 1982 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1982 via NE Ridge, led by So Anma. Summit reached on 13th December 1982. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2071
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA182401
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1982
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders So Anma
Sponsor Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Dhaulagiri Exped 1982-83
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 22nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Dhampus Pass
Basecamp Date 1982-11-01
Summit Date 1982-12-13
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 42
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1982-12-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(01/11,4700m),BC(02/12,5800m),C1(03/12,6700m),C2(12/12,7400m),C3(13/12,7800m),Smt(13/12)
Route Notes Anma & Koizumi - 2 Jan 83 4760m had rest camp (was temporary BC also) where expeditions must have BC on col. Arrived 4700m on Nov 1 by advance party and started making route to BC on 2nd Nov, but icefall in very bad condition, so could not make permanent route around icefall till mid-Nov. Really started climb in mid-Nov. Tourism Ministry's other camp dates and altitudes correct. BC to C1 very easy route and C1 made only 1 day after BC. C1 to C2 took 9 days because of strong winds. Wangchu dumped oxygen because thought might unnecessary (had climbed to Manaslu and Makalu summit without oxygen). Then felt dizzy and became a reason for biv at 8030m since Wangchu took more time in his climb after going off oxygen. So although on 13 Dec other members made C3 after Koizumi and Wangchu had left C2 for top. C3 never used; more dangerous to walk in dark that to biv at 7930m. Had taken little snow-saw and pick to make biv snowhole, no sleeping bag or bivy bag but down jacket and trousers. Koizumi used oxygen all way to top but at top it ran out and were unable find bottle Wangchu dropped. Only 2 climbing Sherpas: Sirdar Ang Pemba and Wangchu. 2nd summit attempt in 16th by Hanai, Ishimura and Anma reached 7500m where waited for wind to stop but it did not; they did not use C3. No 3rd attempt. No accidents and Koizumi and Wangchu only little frostbite. Not so cold but wind stronger than Koizumi. Anma: winds 40-50 m/sec; recorded 40 m/sec and then records blown away. Electric at BC: solar battery produced 60 watts and generator 800 watts. Solar gave constant power and generator propellor broken after 1 week by wind. Weather short term forecasts by storage batteries daily from Delhi and from Tashkent long term forecasts. Were very useful and correct. Also received from AIR. Depended on these for climbing program; had weather intelligence officer in Nagoshi; forecasts of bad weather 1/2 day margin. Only 2 times summit chance: 13-15 and 27-28 Dec when no strong winds. Anma & Koizumi - 30 Dec 82 1 porter heavy appendix sick so asked for helicopter. No accidents. All Ok except for icefall porter. Could use other expeditions fixed rope. Japanese summiter: 30 mins on top, took photos and movies. Found nothing on top, no pole found; raised no Japanese flag since only private party. Climbing problem is high winds. Further reason because of rockfall: all camps were snowholes which are very effective against wind and rock and this very warm. Climbed to summit from C2 at 7400m to top with oxygen. C3 made 7800m by other party but never used. Biv at 7980m instead of going to C3 because was very dark and not safe. Both he and Sherpa got slight frostbite during biv from 6:00 pm to 7:00 am. So Anma in high altitude more than 8000m in this season very severe conditions very strong wind, very low temperature and low density of air. Now there is snow falling which means they cannot see the route. "I think it is very severe." Only 2 times this month possible for high ascent: 13-15th and 27th. Comments about Japanese Everest 1982 Winter expedition: Akio Koizumi: Kato is very strong man, but Kobeyashi maybe only one night without oxygen. I'm afraid for Kato also after 3 nights. Anma: Kato's ascent "very adventurous but he will have not so much scientific information about high altitude". No suicide attempt. He goes 3 times to Mount Everest and to get hat trick. I think he knows all about Everest. I think he attempts in confidence of success. Sharma, Tourism - 22 Dec 82 C2 12 Dec 7400m C3 13 Dec 7800m 13 Dec Wangchu Sherpa (32) amd Akio Koizumi reached 3:30 pm. Claim 1st mid-winter 8000m mountain. All camps without tents but by snowholes. Summiters started from C2 at 7:00 am on 13 Dec. Weather fine in am but cloudy from afternoon. Wangchu used oxygen to 8000m and dropped it because of weight and after that his condition became worse. At top Koizumi spoke to BC by walkie-talkie: "AACH stand on top of Dhaulagiri I mid-winter. Thank you everybody. I climbed by the whole power of AACH" and passed birthday greetings to deputy leader. Koizumi's oxygen finished at summit and it became dark so at 6:45 pm they made snowhole at 7930m and stayed night. Fortunately temperature was -30 degrees C. "It seems miracle that they were alive near 8000m" says leader. 14 Dec 7:00 am they started descent but sometimes became confused and slept on the snow. 1:30 pm 7500m Koizumi and Wangchu met 2 members coming up and returned C2 at 2:30 pm safely. "2 summiters got slight frostbite but conditions is Ok." 2nd attack held 16 Dec but 3 men with draw because severe jet stream. Not known whether expedition finished. Anma & Nagoshi - 16 Oct 82 Total 15 members: general leader and asst who came to Nepal mid-Dec and go to Pokhara. So 13 members on climb (really 12 because of Nagoshi at BC). 3 in KTM and 10 left in several parties beginning 4 Oct. Caravan route to Dhampus Pass, could be closed later. 1st party arrive BC after 10 Nov. Anma meets them at Marpha or Jomsom 1-5 Nov and all arrive BC together 10 Nov 5800m on NE Col. Route = NE Ridge; 4 camps above, C4 7800m Very cold and very windy so BC = 4 or 5 snowholes. They will have electric generator = solar cells and wind generator; electric power for heating, cooking, light and receiving weather charts from Tashkent and Delhi. 25 oxygen for climbing above C4 and sleeping in C4, important in winter above 8000m because of heat loss. 2 or 3 Sherpas above BC. Summit 20 Dec or 25 Dec. Very difficult to go up after end Dec because of wind and lower temperatures. 2 or 3 members may be to top. Anma waits in KTM till 1 Nov or goes on trek and return to KTM by 1 Nov for winter climb permit. Other 2 now in KTM leave tomorrow.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451214
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
So Anma M 1936 Japan Leader Yui, Shizuoka, Japan Consulting and engineering geologist Details Other expeditions
Kohei Echizenya M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Otaru, Hokkaido, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Jun Hamana M 1948 Japan Climbing Leader Gotemba, Shizuoka, Japan Journalist (Mainichi Shimbun) Details Other expeditions
Osamu Hanai M 1952 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Freelance writer Details Other expeditions
Akinari Ishimura M 1953 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Worker on eel farm Details Other expeditions
Akio Koizumi M 1956 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Postgraduate student in forestry Details Other expeditions
Tetsuyasu Kudo M 1959 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Student of literature, Hokkaido University Details Other expeditions
Tatsuo Mori M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Just graduated from University Details Other expeditions
Akio Nagoshi M 1943 Japan BC Support Nagoya, Japan Geologist & meterologist Details Other expeditions
Shinichiro Sakikawa M 1950 Japan Reporter Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Journalist (Hokkaido Shimbun newspaper) Details Other expeditions
Keisuke Seino M 1956 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan Furniture salesman Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Shiga M 1959 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Postgraduate student in agriculture Details Other expeditions
Eizi Shimozawa M 1948 Japan Climbing Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Wangchu (Nima Wangchu) Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Chumoa, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Kinpei Yagi M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA182401 AAJ - - - 57:247 (1983) -
DHA182401 JAC Yasuma, So First Ascent of Dhaulagiri I in Winter, 1982/1983 - 78:7-9 (1983) -
DHA182401 MM - - - 90:9 (Mar 1983) -
DHA182401 IM Anma, Soh The First Winter Ascent of Dhaulagiri I - 12:138-140 (1983) -
DHA182401 JAC Yasuma, So First Ascent of Dhaulagiri I in Winter, 1982/1983 - 78:12-20 (1983) -
DHA182401 IWA - - - 105:202 (1984) -
DHA182401 IWA - - - 105:47 (1984) -
DHA182401 - Hokkaido University Alpine Club Dhaulagiri I 8167m By expedition, Tokyo - jH192
DHA182401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324701/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Winter-Ascent - - -