Dhaulagiri I | 1982 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1982 via NE Ridge, led by Ken Kanazawa. Summit reached on 17th October 1982. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2055
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA182302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ken Kanazawa
Sponsor Takamatsu City Workers Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 20th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1982-09-22
Summit Date 1982-10-17
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4650m),C1(27/09,5700m),C2(03/10,6650m),C3(15/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
Route Notes Kanazawa - 29 Oct 82 2 arrived 26 Oct, others arrive 4 or 5 Nov. BC 22 Sept at 4650m C1 27 Sept at 5700m C2 3 Sept at 6650m C3 15 Oct at 7500m (reached 9th but then long rest at BC) Summit 17 Oct by Mitani at 12:00 and Tanaka 14:15. No oxygen used. Kanazawa not on top because getting frostbitten finger and as dentist cannot lose finger. Not difficult but very big mountain and only 3 camps. Some avalanches from Tukuche side though no one hurt. Summit party found bamboo pole on top and left Mitani's oven glove and Taneka's Japanese cigarettes. Maybe other Japanese went to top plateau and not actual summit because they did not find pole and oven glove. Sherpas caught colds and sirdar slept in BC so Japanese had to carry loads. 1 member frostbitten right foot but may not lose toe. If used oxygen probably not frostbitten. No others on top because Sherpas not carrying and long way between camps. Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82 Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I, NE Ridge Summit 17 Oct by 1) Toichiro Mitani, 1956, Kagawa, businessman 2) Junichi Taneka, 1952, Tokyo, businessman Mitani at top 12:00; Taneka at top 14:15 Kanagawa - 29 Aug 82 All 5 members arrived Leave KTM 31 Aug or 1 Sept by road to Pokhara Arrive BC 20 Sept BC 4700m 3 camps above BC Route = NE Ridge = standard route 2 Sherpas above BC No oxygen at all Summit 20 Oct - or 20-25 Oct Takamatsu Dhaulagiri I Expedition Chose Dhaulagiri I as his 1st 8000er because wanted beautiful mountain not requiring 2-3 months.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451157
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuhiro Hase M 1956 Japan Climber Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Teacher Details Other expeditions
Ken Kanazawa M 1945 Japan Leader Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Dentist Details Other expeditions
Toichiro Mitani M 1956 Japan Climber Marugame, Kagawa, Japan Life insurance salesman Details Other expeditions
Masanori Miyano M 1948 Japan Climber Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan Dental technician Details Other expeditions
Junichi Tanaka M 1952 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Building maintenance worker Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA182302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:246 (1983) -
DHA182302 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
DHA182302 IWA - - - 95:200 (1982) -
DHA182302 IWA - - - 95:48 (1983) -
DHA182302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324603/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri - - -