Dhaulagiri I | 1982 N Face-NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1982 via N Face-NW Ridge, led by Norio Sasaki. Summit reached on 18th October 1982. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2059
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA182301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Norio Sasaki
Sponsor Kamoshika Dojin Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1982
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 21st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Tukuche->Dhampus Pass
Basecamp Date 1982-09-21
Summit Date 1982-10-18
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 27
Total Days 33
Termination Date 1982-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(21/09,4600m),C1(22/09,5200m),C2(29/09,6000m),C3(02/10,6800m),C4(07/10,7200m),C5(11/10,7550m),C6(16/10,7750m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes Yamada - 10 Nov 82 Dhaulagiri I (Pear route) 2 arrived yesterday - all other arrives this afternoon BC - 21 Sept - 4600m C1 - 22 Sept - 5200m C2 - 29 Sept - 6000m C3 - 2 Oct - 6800m C4 - 7 Oct - 7200m C5 - 11 Oct - 7550m C6 - 16 Oct - 7750m Accident: not so big snow avalanche hit Yagihara, Miyazaki and Murakami climbing at 5400m on 26 Sept. They fell 150m. 2 men are Ok, but Yagihara's leg broken and forearm cut by ice axe. Yagihara stayed at BC rest of expedition and walking out with ski poles. Not many avalanches; only 1 accident. Route: at Pear itself climbed right side as some others have done. Not much news about present expedition's route. 17th Oct 1st summit attack, but no success because still making route and time ran out. Takahashi, Matsunaga and Murakami reached 8000m. 18 Oct Yamada, Komatsu and Saito to top and stayed about 1 hour; returned to C6 about 2:30 pm. All 6 summit party members used oxygen from C6 to top (or 8000m) and sleeping in C6. Weather not so good weather on north side; snow mornings also. Difficult 7500m to top, rock ridge very sharp with 3 rock pinnacles. 4900m fixed rope BC to top expedition succeeded because large team of climbers meant some resting while others doing difficult work making route at highest altitudes. 18 members and 7 Sherpas above BC. Sure reached highest point on mountain (normal route team doubted). Yagihara after all was there before in 1978 and this time it was clear. Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82 Japanese Dhaulagiri I, Pear route, 9th expedition Summit reached from C6 at 7950m (established 17 Oct) After established C6 on 17 Oct attempted summit : 1) Takahashi Yoshiteru, 1943, Tokyo, co-staff 2) Yukio Matsunaga, 1948, Numatashi, co-employer 3) Kazumari Murakami, 1955, Tokyo, co-employee Failed to reach top and returned to C6. 18 Oct: 1) Noboru Yamada (already climbed Dhaulagiri I in 1978), 1950, Numata sports shop owner 2) Kozo Komatsu, 1954, Tokyo 3) Yasuhira Saito, 1953, Nagoya, designer From C6 at 6:00 am using oxygen. At 11:30 am on summit, stayed 45 mins and took photos while snowing on summit. 12:06 started descent to C6, 14:25 reached C6. All are well. No more attempts. Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82 26 Sept Kuniaki Yagihara, Tsutomu Miyazaki, Kazunari Murakami started at 9:00 am from C1 to C2. Hit by avalanche and fell 160m. Yagihara's right wrist 7-inch wound and right leg hit and being treated. When he is Ok climbing will resume. 29 Sept C2 at 6030m by Noboru Yamada, Akuzawa, Yasuhira Saito and Yashio. Shibuya - 22 Sept 82 Toshio Shibuya came by helicopter from Jomsom yesterday. 1st members arrive BC 9 Sept; 21 Sept all members in BC except Dr. Toshio arrived Tukuche 11 Sept, stayed until 16th when went to Jomsom and asked for helicopter because fever and cough. Today fever down and no cough, will go to BC with mailrunner who comes to KTM 27 Sept. All others Ok. Sasaki - 24 Aug 82 17 in KTM - 1 more arrive 2 or 3 Sept. Leave KTM 26 Aug by road to Pokhara. Leave Pokhara 27 Aug. Caravan to Tukuche 8 days. Acclimatization climbing in Dhampus Peak, then 2 days Dhampus Pass to BC. BC 4600m in usual site. Route = Pear route; route variation on face between C3 and C4 depending on snow and 6 camps above BC with C6 at 7800m Arrive BC 25 Sept Summit 25 Oct 7 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Pemba Norbu Oxygen for sleeping in C5 and C6.
Accidents 3 members hit by avalanche on 26 Sept
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451158
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face-nw ridge

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshio Akuzawa M 1957 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Worker in motorcar factory Details Other expeditions
Toru Asaji M 1947 Japan Climber Maruko, Nagano, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Fuminori Igarashi M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Manager of coffee shop Details Other expeditions
Shinobu Ishikawa M 1945 Japan Climber Niisato, Gunma, Japan Quality control inspector in Kellog cornflake factory Details Other expeditions
Toshio Kanai M 1957 Japan Climber Shibukawa, Gunma, Japan Shibukawa city government staff Details Other expeditions
Kozo Komatsu M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Yukio Matsunaga M 1948 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Miyazaki M 1947 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Managing director of furniture factory Details Other expeditions
Kazunari Murakami M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Pipefitter Details Other expeditions
Natsuo Nagai M 1953 Japan Climber Ebina, Kanagawa, Japan Staff member, newspaper publishing company Details Other expeditions
Yasuhira Saito M 1953 Japan Climber Nagoya, Japan Machinery designer Details Other expeditions
Norio Sasaki M 1934 Japan Leader Togakushi, Nagano, Japan Hotel director Details Other expeditions
Mitsuyoshi Sato M 1961 Japan Climber Matsuida, Gunma, Japan Matsuida town government staff member Details Other expeditions
Toshio Shibuya M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan University student Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Takasaki, Gunma, Japan Draftsman Details Other expeditions
Yoshiteru Takahashi M 1943 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yagihara M 1946 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Telephone technician Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan Sports shop salesman Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA182301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:246 (1983) -
DHA182301 JAC Sasaki, Norio Dhaulagiri I North Face Pear Route, 1982 - 78:15-17 (1983) -
DHA182301 HJ Sasaki, Norio Japan Dhaulagiri I Expedition 1982 - 40:59-64 (1982-1983) -
DHA182301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
DHA182301 JAC Sasaki, Norio Dhaulagiri I North Face Pear Route, 1982 - 78:51-55 (1983) -
DHA182301 IWA - - - 95:200 (1982) -
DHA182301 IWA - - - 95:47-48 (1983) -
DHA182301 DAV - - - 108:172-173 (1984) -
DHA182301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324604/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Pear-Route - - -
DHA182301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/40/11/japan-dhaulagiri-i-expedition-1982/ - - -