Dhaulagiri I | 1981 NE Ridge

A Canada expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1981 via NE Ridge, led by Jon Jones. Summit reached on 17th May 1981. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1815
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA181102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Jon Jones
Sponsor Canadian Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 16th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 1981-04-08
Summit Date 1981-05-17
Summit Time 1320
Summit Days 39
Total Days 43
Termination Date 1981-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4720m),C1(11/04,5180m),C2(13/04,5600m),C3(23/04,6400m),C4(05/05,7000m),C5(08-15/05,7440m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes Al Burgess - 26 May 81 NE Ridge really catches wind BC - 15,500 feet - about 8 April C1 - 17,000 feet - 11 April C2 - 18,400 feet - 13 April (ABC) NE Col C3 - ice cave at foot of spur - 23 April at 21,000 feet (rest at BC between camps) C4 - 23,000 feet - 5 May C5 - 25,000 feet - 8 May put in place but not occupied. Jones had dysentery most of the time. Elzinga then went home after realizing wouldn't be going to top. He had spent 3 nights at C4 and then left without saying anything before. Gardner and Masters never went above 22,000 and never carried above 21,000, exhausted; so no one climbing high but Burgess twins; only one of season went to top from C5. Sherpas went only to NE Col supplying fresh food; twins occupied C5 15 May after leaving NE Col on 12 May. 16 May rest day in C5 because of bad weather 2 previous days and not slept and needed rehydration. Planned to make C6 on 17th and top on 18th, but saw bad weather coming and were just weakening to spend more time, so went to top on 17th. Left C5 at 5:45 am - did not go usual away across snowfield because avalanche prone, so went longer way on ridge via false summits and had to be roped together. Got to top at 1:20 pm. In descent terrible storm of wind driven snow. Reached C5 at 6:00 pm. "Really gripping descent" via ridge which had to be climbed but snow slope would have slab-avalanched. 18 May down to BC and left BC 21 May. Had to do alpine-style because weather so unpredictable. No accidents or frostbite. Gardner - 25 May 81 No C6. Held back by winds so Burgess went to top from C5 where they spent 2 nights holding down tents; they only summiters. Much of time only 4 on mountain with Elzinga not acclimatizing and not eating (left expedition about 5 May) and Jones also stomach trouble and tied to BC. No accidents. Others should arrive in KTM today or tomorrow. Jones and Burgess - 13 March 81 3 camps drove NE Col - maybe ice cave somewhere which is safest place to be in avalanche. 2 Sherpas to Col only - to keep fresh vegetables coming. Col = ABC BC on Myagdi Glacier at 15,000 feet No oxygen for climbing (looking for same for medical oxygen) Leave KTM 15 March; 12-15 days to BC; there by April Fools day 6 weeks on mountain. Adrian Burgess - 16 Feb 81 Route = NE Ridge, standard route 4 Canadians and 2 Burgess twins Canadians little experience especially doctor and never at really high altitude before. 2 Sherpas above BC to perhaps 20,000 feet.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450593
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jim Elzinga M 1954 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Photographer Details Other expeditions
Donald Hunter Gardner M 1946 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Environmental planner Details Other expeditions
Jon W. Jones M 1946 Canada Leader Calgary, Alberta University professor of geology Details Other expeditions
Charles Bradwell Masters M 1952 Canada Exp Doctor Victoria, British Columbia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA181102 AAJ Burgess, Adrian - - 56:236 (1982) -
DHA181102 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
DHA181102 CAJ Jones, Jon W 1981 Canadian Dhaulagiri Expedition - 65:6-8 (1982) -
DHA181102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223601/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri - - -