Dhaulagiri I | 1981 N Face

A Argentina expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1981 via N Face, led by Alberto Mario Serrano. Summit reached on 22nd May 1981. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1836
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA181101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Argentina
Leaders Alberto Mario Serrano
Sponsor Fifth Argentine Expedition to Himalayas
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 1981-03-29
Summit Date 1981-05-22
Summit Time -
Summit Days 54
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to bad weather and death of member
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 1100
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03,4500m),C1(06/04,5000m),C2(10/04,5500m),C3(15/04,6000m),C4(22/04,6530m),C5(04/05,7200m),C6(22/05,7600m),xxx(7600m)
Route Notes Serrano was too ambitious [but inexperienced?] to reach summit himself. He was not a strong enough climber and should have left high climbing to those who were, but insisted in going up himself. 2 could have stayed at C6 and gone to top after weather improved, but torn tents left space for only 2 members, not 4 and Serrano did not agree for only 2 to go down from C6. No one realized about all his pills until they were found after his death. It's possible he died of overdose. Probably he simply climbed into sleeping bag and died freezing to death. His death just like Ibanez in 1954 who also erroneously insisted in going to top. Vitale - 13 June 81 29 March reached BC at 4500m. 16 days from Italian camp 16 km southwest of BC to BC because too much snow and avalanche as result (Italian camp at 3500m for SW Pillar). After BC established, began to search area and 6 April established C1 at 5000m. Continued walking through rocky area all covered by snow. 10 April C2 at 5500m. From this point up tried to open route through many crevasses and big seracs. C3 as ABC established at 6000m 15 April. After this began period of bad weather and could not maintain same speed of progress. 22 April C4 established at 6530m below Pear and made small cave in ice and put 600m fixed rope between C3 and C4. Again bad weather. Almost 1 week [later] established C5 above Pear on 4 May at 7200m and on this part fixed rope all way (almost 600m) on left gully of Pear. Worked in 2 parts: 1) established camps and route to C5 2) C5 to summit; between these 2 parts, should rest 5 days. 10 May all returned to BC for good rest. Then ready to go up again but period of bad weather. 1st group started up on 17th May and reached ABC on 18th May by Serrano, Cuinas, Rosasco and Sungdare, and two Gyalgens. 21 May this group of 6 started from C5 to make C6 with Sherpa to carry loads to C6 and returned to C3. But climb difficult because of heavy snow. They bived below a small wall of 10m height near NW Ridge; biv at 7550m. 22 May some started again, 4 reached C6 at 7600m. 2 Gyalgen Sherpas returned to C3 as planned. At C3 were Ila Tashi and 2 other Sherpas, Lyon, Aguilar, Vitale, the 2nd group ready for their own summit attempt but as weather turning bad (windy and snowfalling) and not safe, stayed in C3 while first group stayed C6. 23 May weather still bad. Strong wind and some snow falling. 1 of tents at C6 collapsed, in the other poles broke. Decided to returned to C3. When passing by C4, saw C4 completely covered with snow. While returning put in some fixed rope between C6 and C5 for 2nd group's attempt (from 3 to 5 fixed ropes already in place). While descending saw big avalanches between C4 and C3. Each man returned separately, not roped together, because using fixed ropes. Sungdare came 1st, next Cuinas, Serrano, Rosasco; in descent Rosasco caught up to Serrano, who said he wanted to be in 2nd group's summit attempt and asked Rosasco to keep his walkie-talkie because of weight (over 1 kg). Rosasco advised Serrano to stay in C5 that night. Rosasco went on down: left Serrano at about 7400m at 4:00 pm. Serrano assumed to be in good shape. At C3, which Rosasco reached at 9:00 pm because of deep snow, they thought Serrano was in C5. During night Aguilar and Lyon went up to meet Cuinas, Rosasco and Sungdare because they had no headlamp and water and were tired. They reached end of fixed ropes between C3 and C4 at 6200-6250m. Met Rosasco at about 8:00 pm who was a little weaker. Cuinas and Rosasco had no sleeping bag and only Serrano had equipment (but not carrying oxygen). If others didn't meet him he would have reached C2 alone. 24 May in early am watched from C3 and BC to C5 for Serrano to come out, but no sign of life at C5 for Serrano to come to C3. At first not worried because thought when warmer he would emerge. Then suddenly at site where Rosasco and Serrano had parted, they saw sleeping bag and thought Serrano inside but no movement. Continued watch from C3 and BC and later Aguilar in C3 and Castiarena and Viton in C2 saw bag begin to slide. Even without binoculars could see bag fall vertically 1200m from 7400m to 6200m; saw shape of human body and during fall all came apart: saw 4 falling objects: body, rucksack, mattress and bag. Think he froze at night and when sun thawed, body, et al, moved. Serrano had walked only 50m from point where Rosasco and Serrano had parted and where Serrano had said wanted to go up with 3rd group, that not so difficult to reach final ridge. Think Serrano pretending to be in better shape than actually was. All those who were high on mountain had been in Himalayas. Serrano and Rosasco had been on Everest in 1971, Cuinas on Manaslu 1979 with others of this expedition: almost all had high altitude experience. Serrano very ambitious to reach summit as were others on 24 May when saw falling objects tried to organise search party to see closer and Lyon, Aguilar, Ila Tashi and Ang Nima started from C3 to crevasse where body had fallen in. 2 hours climb and bad weather cloud and snowfall again and forced returned to C3 without having reached crevasse. Could see trail in snow into crevasse made by body. Were 200m from crevasse at same altitude at 4:00 pm and then turned back to C3. At C3 Vitale talked with BC by walkie-talkie. All consulted and decided to abandon expedition that evening. No further attempt to reach body because danger from avalanche, didn't know how deep was crevasse and he was certainly dead, had he been alive it would have been worthwhile to go. Pear = rocky wall triangular shape and it face 300m wide at 6500m altitude and its top is at 7200m altitude - avalanche of Pear is 50 degrees. Highest point ever reached on North Face was 8000m in 1954; 1956 reached near 8000m. Serrano 2nd Argentinian to died on Dhaulagiri; leader of 1954 Francisco Serrano died in KTM hospital. Used in most modern equipment available. Reaction of all members to unlucky accident was deep sorrow. Failure of expedition due to bad weather in May, after good in April. Didn't expect so much bad weather, told small monsoon coming early. Demoralized by Serrano's death and weather prevented another attempt. All rocky parts covered by loose snow which made hard work and consumed much time. According to previous expeditions experience, no avalanches between C3 and C4 but could see and hear them including big avalanches. More than 1000m fixed rope - almost 1100m. If not accident could have reached summit though don't know difficulty above C6; from ridge, a zone on towers at 7800m which maybe most difficult part of climb. 1st Argentina expedition crossed this area. Vitale thinks another Argentina expedition will try North Face in future; money and permit are problems. Vitale - 8 June 81 Ministry's camp dates correct for BC to C5-C6 = 22 May; for altitudes see sketch map by Vitale. Had frequent bad weather with much snow and wind; steady progress to C5 at top of "pear." Route fairly easy to 7600m. Above this part, which none reached on this expedition is 45-degree steepness and heavy snow which would make progress slow. Had this problem below 7600m of loose soft snow. Below 7600m wind was big problem. 4-21 May much bad weather for many days, waiting for improvement. Made C5 and then down and rested at BC; in this period weather good, thus after bad weather. Below C4 many avalanches on 23 and 24 May from accumulated snow - 2 big avalanches. No 2nd attempt because of weather above C5. Found Polish oxygen bottle and Serrano used it for few minutes, Vitale thinks. Left it behind in descent after Serrano's accident, see typed report and sketch. Rosasco did not stay with Serrano in descent to C5 because neither realized Serrano really exhausted. He (Serrano) spoke of going up again, not words of exhausted man. After his death, they found amongst his thing many pills to sleep and to keep awake. He must have been on pep pills on 23 May and when their effect more off he collapsed, bivouacked and froze to death. What people in C3 saw at 8:00 am on 24 May was Serrano dead in bag, but at first they thought he was asleep (he was late sleeper habitually) or waiting for warm sun. Then sun melted some snow and body in bag fell: fell out of bag, bag came apart and others items also fell out. No one went up from C3 to Serrano after 8:00 am spotting him because it would take at least 2 days to reach that point in all deep fresh snow; plus avalanching below C4 anad Sherpas didn't like to go up. Serrano overestimated his abilities. Vitale in Buenos Aires told him to be expedition leader and leave difficult climbing to experts, but he insisted in going out in front. Vitale knew him from Everest. There was no contract requiring members to take Serrano to top. Watzel - 8 May 81 C5 on top of pear about 7200m. 28 April members came down from rear site. 4 May would have gone to establish camp at 7600m can put 2 tents and from there to top about 15-25 May. Vitale - 21 Feb 81 Route = North Face Pear route BC - at site of last Argentina and C1 at 4500m C5 - above Pear at 7000m C6 - 7500m Route goes round Pear to left C5 is difficult; where to put tents ?; have very small tents for this camp and try to find where 1954 expedition placed. 1956 - reached 7650m 1954 - reached 8000m Problems: 1) where to put C1 to avoid avalanches; may be best to make a cave 2) Pear - put camp C5 - no site? 3) above C6 small towers, difficult rock climb; this was 1954 expedition's problem; they made bivouac and during night, 40 cm snow fell. Leave KTM 25 or 26 Feb by road to Pokhara. Trek Myagdi Khola to BC; 13 days to BC ex-Pokhara with 250-280 porters. Summit (late April) early May. 10 Sherpas above BC; sirdar Ila Tashi Oxygen comes with member arriving early March; will try not to use it, but will if necessary: 26 bottles. This 5th Argentina expedition to Nepal 1954 and 1956 Dhaulagiri, 1971 Everest, 1979 Manaslu Fifth Argentina Expedition to Himalayas 50th Anniversity of Club Andino Bariloche Climbing leader of 1954 expedition Watzel will trek to BC in April.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450598
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marcelo Claudio Aguilar M 1957 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Medical student Details Other expeditions
Felix Angel Arrieta M 1943 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Photographer Details Other expeditions
Pablo Castiarena M 1956 Argentina Climber Olivos, Buenos Aires, Argentina Electronics technician Details Other expeditions
Hector Fernando Cuinas M 1948 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Industrialist (executive of company manufacturing radio & TV) Details Other expeditions
Jorge Alberto De Leon M 1938 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Cinematographer Details Other expeditions
Rodolfo Fernandez M 1935 Argentina Exp Doctor Caseros, Buenos Aires, Argentina Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernardo Werner Lyon M 1957 Argentina Climber Olivos, Buenos Aires, Argentina Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Luciano Pera M 1943 Argentina Climber Rio Gallegos, Argentina Factory engineer Details Other expeditions
Alfredo Carlos Rosasco M 1945 Argentina Climber Neuquen, Argentina Owner of trucking company Details Other expeditions
Alberto Mario Serrano M 1946 Argentina Leader Buenos Aires, Argentina Diplomat (Foreign Ministry) Details Other expeditions
Oscar Carlos Valenzuela M 1939 Argentina Climber Bariloche, Rio Negro, Argentina Army officer (Major) Details Other expeditions
Ulises Sila Vitale M 1936 Argentina Climber Mendoza, Argentina Owner of household-appliance shop Details Other expeditions
Jorge Eduardo Viton M 1941 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Businessman (shop owner that sells kitchen eqiupment) Details Other expeditions
Ila Tashi Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khunde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sungdare Sherpa M 1955 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA181101 AAJ Arko, Vojslav - - 56:236-238 (1982) -
DHA181101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Tragedy - - -