Dhaulagiri I | 1980 E Face-NE Ridge
A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1980 via E Face-NE Ridge, led by Voytek Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre. Summit reached on 18th May 1980. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1911 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA180102 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | E Face-NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Poland |
| Leaders | Voytek Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre |
| Sponsor | Nick Escourt Award Expedition to Dhaulagiri I |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 14th w/Swz |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy, UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-04-08 |
| Summit Date | 1980-05-18 |
| Summit Time | 1230 |
| Summit Days | 40 |
| Total Days | 43 |
| Termination Date | 1980-05-21 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 1 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 2 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08/04,4600m),C1(12/04,5700m),Biv1(06-07/05,6400m),Biv2(07-08/05,7100m),Biv3(08-09/05,7650m),Smt(18/05) |
| Route Notes | Kurtyka - 28 May 80 All 4 members climbed face in 1 push but in very bad weather in 3 days; heavy snowfall, avalanches and spindrifts; bivouacs very poor (2nd biv only sitting). 1st biv 6450m 6-7 May 2nd biv 7100m 7-8 May 3nd biv 7650m 8-9 May 7650m highest point in this push then descended to BC at 4600m; 4-day rest, then to col and all 4 up NE Ridge to 7650m and then finished climb with variation of normal route (onto North Face) on 18 May with 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas. Swiss used oxygen; Kurtyka's party used no oxygen, only 2 pitches led on face with rope, all rest unroped. Had already gone to 7650m on NE Ridge in acclimatization end of April. BC established 8 April. C1 established 12 April at 5700m. Snow cave on Ridge 6600m where slept in tent which carried with them at 7300m on ridge. Face very fine, quite steep, real climbing. No accidents or frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 27 May 80 Summit on 18 May via East Face by alpine-style by all 4 members, stayed on top from 12:30 to 12:45 pm. All Ok. 13 April crossed NE Col and reached 5700m 14 Arpil reached 6400m 17 April back to bottom of face 21 April reached 6600m 22 April reached 6900m but down to 5700m because of bad weather 25 April reached 7220m 06 May reached 7500m then bad weather 10+ May from 5700m up MacIntyre & Kurtyka - 17 March 80 NE Col where both expeditions put camps. Face expedition will have ABC here and only camp above BC at 5700m. BC north of Dhaulagiri I; approach 4600m via Dhampus Pass if snow allows. Route up to East Face emerges onto NE Ridge at 7800m. First to attempt East Face expect Kurtyka's recce last year 400m up face. Road to Pokhara and then up to 2 weeks to BC with 35 porters. May acclimatise on North Face but probably on NE Ridge upto 7400m. 3 weeks to acclimatize before attempting face. Face begins 5600m; at most 4 days on face as light as possible; "everything depends on speed on that mountain." No fixed ropes, no oxygen, no Sherpas above NE Col's ABC. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450228 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | e face-ne ridge |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wojciech (Voytek) Kurtyka | M | 1947 | Poland | Co-Leader | Krakow, Poland | Computer technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Renalto (Rene) Ghilini | M | 1957 | Italy | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander (Alex) MacIntyre | M | 1954 | UK | Co-Leader | Manchester, England | National officer, British Mountaineering Council | Details Other expeditions |
| Ludwik Wilczynski | M | 1947 | Poland | Climber | Bydgoszcz, Poland | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA180102 | HJ | MacIntyre, Alex | Dhaulagiri East Face Expedition | - | 37:36-41 (1979-80) | - |
| DHA180102 | AAJ | MacIntyre, Alex | Dhaulagiri's East Face | - | 55:45-50 (1981) | - |
| DHA180102 | MM | - | - | - | 74:14 (Jul 1980) | - |
| DHA180102 | MM | MacIntyre, Alex | Broken English | - | 77:36-38 (Jan 1981) | - |
| DHA180102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198104500/Dhaulagiris-East-Face-Nick-Estcourt-Memorial-Expedition | - | - | - |
| DHA180102 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/11/dhaulagiri-east-face-expedition/ | - | - | - |