Dhaulagiri I | 1980 NE Ridge

A Switzerland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1980 via NE Ridge, led by Hans Von Kaenel. Summit reached on 13th May 1980. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1865
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA180101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Hans Von Kaenel
Sponsor Eiselin Sports Dhaulagiri Expedition 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 11th-15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, USA, W Germany
Approach Pokhara->Myagdi Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 1980-04-07
Summit Date 1980-05-13
Summit Time 1030
Summit Days 36
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 14
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4600m),ABC(18/04,5700m),C1(21/04,6400m),C2(03/05,7050m),C3(10/05,7500m),Smt(13-14,17-19/05)
Route Notes Ballmann + Burkhardt - 27 May 80 6 came to KTM todayl others in Marpha and on to KTM 3 or 4 June. 2 with frostbitten toes but no major loss. No accidents and one pneumonia in early days reached summit. New snow on 15th and 16th delayed more summit attempts and no oxygen in high camp. Ang Rita after 1st ascent descended to ABC at 5700m before going up again; spent more than week over 7000m. Never used oxygen as other 2 Sherpas but all members summiters did. Ballmann met Polish, etc. They all 4 climbed face to 7500m to Swiss C3, then down for rest and back up NE Ridge all the way from 4500m-4700m until 16 May. Then up with Ballmann's party and on top with Ballmann party from C3, which was highest cap at 7500m. Shailendra Raj Sharma - 26 May 80 Summit by 17 men: 13 May- 1) Hans Van Kaenel, leader, 40, Bern 2) Fritz Luchsinger, 59 years 3) Ang Rita Sherpa, 36, Namche, at top 10:30 am 14 May- 4) Hans Zimmermann, 43, electrician, Biel, Switzerland 5) Hans Joerg Mueller, 1949, mountain guide, Reichabach, Switz. 6) Josep Buholzer, 1947, joiner, Horw, Switzerland 7) Raymond Monneret, 1942, Moutier, Switzerland 17 May- 8) Hana Burgstaller, 44, master baker, Putzleinsdorf, Austria 9) Hans Eitel 10) Fredy Graf, Switzerland 11) Marcel Ruedi, Switzerland 18 May- 12) Mike Ballmann, Switzerland 13) Rudolf Bleiker, Switzerland 14) Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa 15) Lhakpa Gyalzen Sherpa (without oxygen) 19 May- 16) Simon Burkhandt, Switzerland 17) Jean Mueller, Switzerland 18) Ang Rita Sherpa (again) Expedition finished. Von Kaenel & Burger - 17 March 80 Route = NE Ridge (Swiss route) Leave KTM 19 or 20 March; last member arrives KTM tomorrow and all baggage here. Road to Pokhara; leave by 22 March arrive 13-14 days to BC with about 200 porters via Myagdi Khola. BC at Italian site at 4600m and one week there. Prepare ABC at 5600m after one month start for Col. 3 camps above ABC summit in 1st 10 days of May. 9 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Mingma Mote. Oxygen for climbing above last camp at 7800m (same may not use it). Give chance to advanced climbers (good ones but no stars) to climb 8000m. 20th anniversary of 1st ascent when all food brought from Switzerland; now as much food as possible from Nepal.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450223
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kornelia Augstburger F 1930 Switzerland Climber Bern, Switzerland Teacher of languages Details Other expeditions
Samuel (Mike) Ballmann M 1945 Switzerland Climber Zollikerberg, Zurich, Switzerland Businessman Details Other expeditions
Rolf Bleiker M 1949 Switzerland Climber Zollikerberg, Zurich, Switzerland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Josef Buholzer M 1947 Switzerland Climber Horw, Luzern, Switzerland Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Hans Burgstaller M 1936 Austria Climber Putzleinsdorf, Upper Austria, Austria Baker Details Other expeditions
Simon Burkhardt M 1934 Switzerland Climber Muri, Bern, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Hans Volker Eitel M 1945 W Germany Climber Heidelberg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Restaurant manager Details Other expeditions
Duane Ewers M 1926 USA Climber Los Angeles, California Anesthesist (holds doctor's degree) Details Other expeditions
Fredy Graf M 1936 Switzerland Climber Weiningen, Zurich, Switzerland Architect Details Other expeditions
Fritz Luchsinger M 1921 Switzerland Climber Huenibach, Switzerland Colonel in Swiss army Details Other expeditions
Cestmir Lukes M 1946 Switzerland Climber Jona, Zurich, Switzerland Plumber Details Other expeditions
Raymond Monnerat M 1942 Switzerland Climber Moutier, Bern, Switzerland Technical designer Details Other expeditions
Hans Joerg Mueller M 1949 Switzerland Climber Reichenbach, Bern, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Mueller M 1950 Switzerland Climber Moutier, Bern, Switzerland Architect Details Other expeditions
Marcel Ruedi M 1938 Switzerland Climber Winterthur, Zurich, Switzerland Butcher Details Other expeditions
Johann (Hans) Von Kaenel M 1940 Switzerland Leader Bern, Switzerland Manager of sporting-goods shop Details Other expeditions
Hans Zimmermann M 1937 Switzerland Climber Biel, Bern, Switzerland Staff member, an electric utility company Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gyalzen/Gyalu Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Mote Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA180101 AAJ Von Kaenel, Hans - - 55:266-267 (1981) -
DHA180101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
DHA180101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126602/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri - - -