Dhaulagiri I | 1979 N Face (to 7800m)

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1979 via N Face (to 7800m), led by Gerard Malaczynski. Summit reached on 3rd October 1979. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2113
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA179301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (to 7800m)
Route 2 NE Ridge (to 7400m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Gerard Malaczynski
Sponsor Gdansk-Himalaya Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-09-01
Summit Date 1979-10-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1979-10-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7700m due to bad weather, high winds and snowfall
High Point (m) 7700
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5500m),C2(26/09,6000m),C3(28/09,6800m),C4(02/10,7400m),xxx(03,12,14/10,7700m)
Route Notes Malaczynski - 29 Oct 79 Expedition reached 7800m 3 times: 3 Oct for first time, then 12 and 14 Oct. North Face can be climbed; may try again in spring; had bad weather with snow daily and strong winds. Rocks 7700-7900m are problem to climbing; impossible to climb in such weather. Others arrive KTM 31 Oct. No accidents. Bertulis got sick while on solo recce but was found in time. Bertulis - 21 Oct 79 Bertulis and 2 members now in KTM. Expedition made 3 attempts to establish C5 at 7800m on 4th, 10th and 11th. Climbers decimated by severe weather by frostbite and ill health. About 7600-7700m highest point reached. Climbed via North Face to summit ridge which could be called West Ridge; reached this summit. Abandoned idea of going up a face and down a ridge. Problems on face is lack of good tent sites. Only one good site for tents on whole face and it very low at 6000m. No use of oxygen at all even sleeping by anyone. No other mountains climbed, no accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite. Left BC 15 Oct. If porters available, rest leave BC 20 Oct. Might possibly make another attempt for summit if porters late and weather fine, so officially expedition not finished when Bertulis left. Malaczynski - 17 Aug 79 Leave KTM Tuesday 21 Aug to Pokhara. Caravan to Myagdi Khola via Beni and Khibang. Leave Pokhara 22 Aug. About 2 weeks to BC with about 150 porters. BC at about 4800m. Route up North Face via tried in 1950's down NE Ridge with same. Perhaps up East Face and down to NE Col. On North Face, hope 5 camps enough may be less. In '50's had trouble to find site on pear for a camp. Poles expect to climb all of the Pear route in one day. 6-7 weeks climbing. 4 men and few porters will go in advance to site BC in advance of main party. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping - only medical equipment. Letter from Juan Massons (Spanish Dhaulagiri I) - 17 Apr 79 On April 8th we have placed our base camp at an altitude of 4600m. It means than in some three days all the loads and members will be living at base camp. Actually on April 8th, one third of the members remain in an Intermediate Camp at 4100m and the rest in a low camp at 3600m.
Accidents No accidents. Bertulis got sick while on solo recce but was found in time
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449999
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (to 7800m)

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexander A. (Alex) Bertulis M 1939 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Architect Details Other expeditions
Tomasz Berzowski M 1944 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Naval architect Details Other expeditions
Walenty Fiut M 1947 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Student of art history Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Jaworski M 1946 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Kaczmarczyk M 1944 Poland Exp Doctor Gdansk, Poland Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Kasprowicz M 1949 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Sound engineer (in film-making) Details Other expeditions
Ryszard Kowalewski M 1943 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Artist Details Other expeditions
Wojciech (Voytek) Kurtyka M 1947 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Tadeusz Laukajtys M 1940 Poland Climber Torun, Poland Geographer Details Other expeditions
Gerard Malaczynski M 1942 Poland Leader Gdansk, Poland Management engineer at Radio & TV Broadcasting Centre of Gdansk Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Milewski M 1935 Poland Deputy Leader Gdansk, Poland Associate professor, Institute of Fluid Flow Machines Details Other expeditions
Waclaw Otreba M 1947 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Marian Pawlak M 1943 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Piestrak M 1938 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Civil engineer & film director Details Other expeditions
Bogdan Polanowski M 1949 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Wiaderny M 1949 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Airplane & helicopter pilot Details Other expeditions
Ludwik Wilczynski M 1947 Poland Climber Bydgoszcz, Poland Polish-language specialist Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Zielinski M 1947 Poland Climber Gdansk, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA179301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:630 (1980) -
DHA179301 HJ Malaczynski, Gerard Dhaulagiri I - 37:171-173 (1979-80) -
DHA179301 AAJ Nyka, Jozef - - 55:266 (1981) -
DHA179301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126601/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Pear-Route-Attempt-1976 - - -
DHA179301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063002/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Attempt - - -
DHA179301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -