Dhaulagiri I | 1979 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1979 via NE Ridge, led by Sylvain Saudan. Summit reached on 10th May 1979. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2092
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA179102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Sylvain Saudan
Sponsor Swiss-French Ski Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1979-04-11
Summit Date 1979-05-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to fatal accident
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,4700m),C1(5150m),C2(5750m),C3(6620m),C4(7400m),C5(10/05,7600m),xxx(10/05,7600m)
Route Notes (Altitudes given by Spaniards.) Austin, French Charge - 26 Aug 79 Account given by expedition in Kathmandu was not correct. What actually happened was doctor (Sabarly), inexperienced in such mountaineering and on drugs, died first. Pemba Sherpa died trying to rescue him. Professional guide (Poumailloux) died of exhaustion bringing Saudan's girl-friend Valencot down. 21 May 79 Saudan, Valencot and Ollagnier left Nepal 21 May; Valencot's frostbite especially bad and danger of infection here great. According to Miss Spaha, they had no food for 3 days. 2 members are still on the mountain at 5000m. LO has kept expedition film at Jomsom, refusing to release it to expedition. Austin, French Embassy - 19 May 79 Group of 6 climbers from Dhaulagiri expedition reached 7600m NE Ridge on 12th May and preparing for find assault when taken by very bad weather about 250 km/hr and very heavy snowstorms so they were blocked in camp. During night of 13/14 May about 00:30 hrs, avalanche took away 2 tents from highest camp and 2 climbers. Poumailloux (Mt Guide) and Dr Sabarly, were swept down from 7600m at least 2000m straight down. Early hours of am 14th May the four left who had taken shelter under rock, started descending by fixed ropes left by Spaniards. At 11:00 am 14th May another snowstorm with very high wind and Pemba disappeared: apparently died of fall due to exhaustion - was last man in descent and don't know exactly but ice ax left standing in snow at about 7300-7500m at very difficult part of route from C5. Saudan, Ollagnier, Ms Valencot (all French) took 4 days to BC. Sherpas from BC to help them after Ollagnier reached BC alone but fingers frostbitten BC alone. Saudan and Ms Valencot all fingers frostbitten could not tie ropes and they waited 5760m. Saudan and Ms Valencot are suffering from very deep frostbite fingers, feet and noses. Admitted to Santa Bhawan and took 1 week to know how much they say they were in perfect condition and if no sudden change in weather would have all 6 would have reached summit and Saudan skied down. Ms Valencot cannot speak much because exhausted and frostbite in nose and mouth area and all toes and fingers. Saudan did not realize his feet frostbitten: one is badly frozen. Saudan lucky to survive because of loss of overboot, etc.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449853
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean-Pierre Bidegain M 1951 France Climber Paris, France Radio journalist with Europe No 1 Details Other expeditions
Maurice Chappot M 1938 France Exp Cook Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Hockey player Details Other expeditions
Guy Cousteix M 1950 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Training guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Guerni M 1952 France Climber Paris, France Cinematographer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Ollagnier M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eric Poumailloux M 1952 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Training guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Louis Sabarly M 1950 France Exp Doctor Paris, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Sylvain Saudan M 1936 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Ski instructor & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Daniel Schlaeppi M 1936 Switzerland Climber Geneva, Switzerland Journalist (Blick Magazine) Details Other expeditions
Marc Simon M 1948 France Climber Paris, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Marie-Jose Valencot F 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Interpreter Details Other expeditions
Pemba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA179102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:630 (1980) -
DHA179102 - Saudan, Sylvain Sylvain Saudan: Le Skier de L'Impossible Favre, Lausanne - S86
DHA179102 - Saudan, Sylvain Sensation im Himalaya: Skiabfahrt aus 8068m Panorama Verlag, Alt Statten, Switzerland - S86
DHA179102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063001/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-Ski-Attempt - - -