Dhaulagiri I | 1979 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1979 via NE Ridge, led by Gregorio Ariz Martinez. Summit reached on 12th May 1979. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2089
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA179101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Gregorio Ariz Martinez
Sponsor Navarra en Himalaya 1979
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-04-08
Summit Date 1979-05-12
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 34
Total Days 43
Termination Date 1979-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4700m),C1(13/04,5160m),C2(15/04,5750m),C3(20/04,6600m),C4(03/05,7200m),C5(09/05,7600m),Smt(12/05)
Route Notes Pons - 18 May 79 Started for summit 3:00 am on May 12; returned 5:00 pm in C5; on top at 2:00 pm 5 men together on NE Ridge. Wind some what strong and very cold; one man slight frostbite. No accident, no illness Only 1 team to summit. 2nd team 4 more members ready, but next day very bad weather. 1st team waited 2 nights for wind to abate before going to top without oxygen that day; used very little 2 nights before attempt, none afterwards. 5 to summit on 12 May: Aldaya, Garayoa, Plaza, Pons and Ang Rita Sherpa All members well; all in BC who not already in KTM. Massons - 13 May 79 Juan Massons and Garreta, left BC 4 May and arrive KTM today. C3 - 6600m C4 - 3 May - 7180m On NE Ridge - Spain Said Saudan could come after Spaniards, Spaniards making route and French right along behind 1 hour later - for summit, French can come only 1/2 hour later, really together. Lot of snow on top of mountain 5 May. Garreta and Bromana leave KTM soon as possible Massons and Colomer maybe 24 May or before rest of members leave Nepal 31 May. After 3-4 persons in 1 party go to top 10-15 May Telexes from Spanish Dhaulagiri to Spain: C3 established at 6630m on 20 April; Dhaulagiri is very difficult; wind tore tents; -25 degrees. C4 established at 718 m on 2 May after 12 hours intensive work installing the camp; great with cold and wind. Intend to attack summit 10-15 May. Health and morale of all are good. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 19 April 79 HMG has sent letters Spain and Swiss leaders and LO's. Saudan must climb up only NW Ridge or NE Face but not NE Ridge which is for Spanish only; otherwise will take action against Saudan and his team. Pons - 18 March 79 20 March - 1 Sherpa and 2 members to Bhairava 21 March - all others to Pokhara 24 March - all leave Pokhara 8 April - arrive 1st difficult point of glacier 12 April - arrive BC at 4700m 24 April - C1 and C2 established 3 May - C3 and C4 established 5-12 May - C5 (at about 7600m) and summit attack 15 May - latest date for summit 15-20 May - back to BC 22 May - leave BC 3-4 June - latest date of arrival KTM 18 members - Massons and Garreta arrive KTM 23 March 1 sirdar - Sonam Girme 4 HA Sherpas 2 kitchen 2 mailrunners 6 high porters (local) 300 coolies from Pokhara - 7500 kg baggage 12 oxygen only medical and perhaps sleeping in highest camp Spaniards have climbed following 8000m peaks: Annapurna East Manaslu Makalu (Kangchenjunga Central Smt) Pons - 15 March 79 Approach via Myagdi Khola to BC at 4700m up Glacier at top of it; NE Ridge route on mountain. Not going via Kali Gandaki because Dhampus Pass too full of snow (maybe return via Kali Gandaki).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449855
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Angel Maria (Mari) Abrego Santesteban M 1944 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mechanic in a car-parts factory Details Other expeditions
Ignacio (Inaki) Aldaya Berroeta M 1950 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Farmer Details Other expeditions
Gregorio Ariz Martinez M 1944 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Owner of building-supplies factory (windows, doors, etc.) Details Other expeditions
Jose Ignacio Ariz Martinez M 1948 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mechanic in family's building-supplies factory Details Other expeditions
Ramon Bramona Rams M 1945 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Jordi Colomer Gallego M 1942 Spain Deputy Leader Barcelona, Spain Technician for Olivetti Details Other expeditions
Trinidad Cornellana Puygarnau F 1950 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Juan Maria (Pitxi) Eguillor Ulzurrun M 1948 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Maria Pilar Ganuza Goni F 1948 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Technician in paper laboratory Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Garayoa Aizcorbe M 1950 Spain Exp Doctor Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Javier Garreta Dord M 1941 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Factory technician Details Other expeditions
Angel Irigoyen Palacin M 1952 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mechanic in car factory Details Other expeditions
Angel Martinez Nieto M 1945 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Mechanic in Fiat car factory Details Other expeditions
Juan Massons Rabassa M 1944 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Economist Details Other expeditions
Gerardo Plaza Tunon M 1953 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Student of veterinary medicine Details Other expeditions
Jordi Pons Sangines M 1933 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Agustin Setuain Perez M 1953 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Driver working in a car-repair shop Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Sorozabal Ostolaza M 1945 Spain Climber Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Bank employee Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions
Sonam Girme Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA179101 AAJ Ariz Martinez, Gregorio - - 53:629-630 (1980) -
DHA179101 HJ Bramona, Ramon The Spanish Expedition to Dhaulagiri I - 36:181-182 (1978-79) -
DHA179101 AJ Bramona, Ramon The 1979 Spanish Expedition to Dhaulagiri I - 85:190-191 (1980) -
DHA179101 - Ariz Martinez, Gregorio Expedicion Navarra al Himalaya 79, Dhaulagiri 8172m Grafinasa, Pomplona, Spain - A255
DHA179101 MM - - - 68:14 (Jul 1979) -
DHA179101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062900/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri - - -
DHA179101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ - - -
DHA179101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%20190-191%20Bramona%20Dhaulagiri.pdf - - -