Dhaulagiri I | 1978 SW Pillar
A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via SW Pillar, led by Yves Pollet-Villard. Summit reached on 31st October 1978. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2169 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA178302 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Pillar |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Yves Pollet-Villard |
| Sponsor | French Expedition to the Himalaya - Dhaulagiri 1978 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Myagdi Khola (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-09-23 |
| Summit Date | 1978-10-31 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 48 |
| Termination Date | 1978-11-10 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 7200m due to wintery weather |
| High Point (m) | 7200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 14 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(23/09,3650m),C1.ABC(5200m),C2(5650m),C3(6100m),C4(18/10,7000m),xxx(31/10,7200m) |
| Route Notes | Coudray & Pollet-Villard - 10 Nov 78 New route BC to C1 which was very safe from avalanche of snow or icefall. In 1975 5 people dead between BC and C1 at the end of Oct. 1st Nov less than -25 degrees in night and 100 km/hr winds. Could make only 10-20 m/day in this cold wind and last part of pillar very difficult technical and camp not wear heavy clothing which gets in way in rock technical climbing. Sherpas did not want to climb after 5 Nov because said too cold and windy. Sherpas very experienced. 250m more to go to top of pillar then long and gentle slope to summit. 3rd Nov - could not go out of tent of C4 because of wind. 4th Nov - to C3 and that evening decided to stop: Sherpas did not want to go on and weather worse every day now know exactly route, way make 1 camp more between C3 and C4 very long (5 hours with good acclimatization and load of 8-10 kg only) and make depot at BC side and BC higher. Will come earlier in season to reach highest point 10 Oct. After 18 Oct's C4 established lost 1 week with bad weather. No accidents to members, no illness or frostbite. Coudray and Pollet-Villard left BC by helicopter. 8 Nov - others leave BC today, on 8 Nov some in C1. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 78 Abandoned on 5 Nov because high wind and too cold; that day reached 7300m (when and who not said). Leave BC 10 Nov except 2 Coudray who came yesterday who are well. All well. Went Dhaulagiri I next by SE Ridge again. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 Nov 78 French on Dhaulagiri I delayed by strong winds and snowfall; from C4 could go up only 300m. All well and waiting (about 1 week ago). Mrs Pollet-Villard - 23 Oct 78 C6 about 6700m - established 21 or 22 Oct 7000m. Route difficult, very steep and narrow and sharp, still expect to reach summit; 700m high pillar from 7000-7500m difficult. Sherpa Dawa Tenzing fell down a steep slope 1 week ago, hurt hip and leg. Weather good in am and above the clouds it is good, but cold and windy. Mrs Pollet-Villard went to BC 10 days by foot, arrive BC 2-3 days, stays until 1 Nov in KTM. All members in good health. Now 5 members in BC. Coudray - 4 Sept 78 Route tried by Japanese this spring at first and then went to successful route, SW Pillar. 10 climbers and 2 doctors for research with tape recorders on each member; they are climbers too but only to do medical work. Dr Grevy and Blanc arrived KTM 23 Sept for 2 days in KTM. All others will be here tomorrow. Leave tomorrow by plane to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 6 Sept. 220-250 porters to BC at 3600m where Japanese had theirs; arrive 19-20 Sept. 5 or 6 high camps depending on route. C1 4600m near icefall C2 5000m at Col (ABC) C3 5600m on ridge C4 6100m on ridge C5 7000m on ridge just Before last camp great difficulties: very steep rock C6 7500m - on top of difficulty and beginning of final ridge. Maybe a 7th very light camp 8 Sherpas and 5 local porters to lower camps Nawang Dorje is sirdar Are carrying oxygen in case of real difficulties in climb, but will try climb without including none for sleeping. Hope summit end of Oct; if not by 10 Nov, not possible because of wind and cold, and must be in Chamonix for opening of winter season in Dec. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449661 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw pillar |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Denis Oliver Berholet | M | 1929 | France | Cameraman | Rougemont, Vaud, Switzerland | Cameraman, alpine guide & ski instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Anselme Francois Baud | M | 1948 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Blanc | M | 1942 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Coudray | M | 1942 | France | Deputy Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Maurice Cretton | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles Daubas | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Alain Francois Grevy | M | 1940 | France | Exp Doctor | Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France | Physician (surgeon) | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Guinet | M | 1929 | France | Charge of publicity | Paris, France | Printer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Pierre Herry | M | 1948 | France | Exp Doctor | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Physician (l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d' Alpinisme) | Details Other expeditions |
| Yvon Masino | M | 1940 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Georges Payot | M | 1937 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Yves Pollet-Villard | M | 1929 | France | Leader | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Raymond Renaud | M | 1941 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Paul Vion | M | 1949 | France | Climber | Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France | Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA178302 | AAJ | Pollet-Villard, Yves | - | - | 53:277 (1979) | - |
| DHA178302 | HJ | Coudray, Jean | Attempt on the South Pillar of Dhaulagiri I (8172m) | - | 36:179-181 (1978-79) | - |
| DHA178302 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927700/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Buttress-Attempt | - | - | - |
| DHA178302 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ | - | - | - |