Dhaulagiri I | 1978 SW Pillar

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via SW Pillar, led by Yves Pollet-Villard. Summit reached on 31st October 1978. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2169
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA178302
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Yves Pollet-Villard
Sponsor French Expedition to the Himalaya - Dhaulagiri 1978
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Myagdi Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-09-23
Summit Date 1978-10-31
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 48
Termination Date 1978-11-10
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to wintery weather
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 14
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/09,3650m),C1.ABC(5200m),C2(5650m),C3(6100m),C4(18/10,7000m),xxx(31/10,7200m)
Route Notes Coudray & Pollet-Villard - 10 Nov 78 New route BC to C1 which was very safe from avalanche of snow or icefall. In 1975 5 people dead between BC and C1 at the end of Oct. 1st Nov less than -25 degrees in night and 100 km/hr winds. Could make only 10-20 m/day in this cold wind and last part of pillar very difficult technical and camp not wear heavy clothing which gets in way in rock technical climbing. Sherpas did not want to climb after 5 Nov because said too cold and windy. Sherpas very experienced. 250m more to go to top of pillar then long and gentle slope to summit. 3rd Nov - could not go out of tent of C4 because of wind. 4th Nov - to C3 and that evening decided to stop: Sherpas did not want to go on and weather worse every day now know exactly route, way make 1 camp more between C3 and C4 very long (5 hours with good acclimatization and load of 8-10 kg only) and make depot at BC side and BC higher. Will come earlier in season to reach highest point 10 Oct. After 18 Oct's C4 established lost 1 week with bad weather. No accidents to members, no illness or frostbite. Coudray and Pollet-Villard left BC by helicopter. 8 Nov - others leave BC today, on 8 Nov some in C1. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 78 Abandoned on 5 Nov because high wind and too cold; that day reached 7300m (when and who not said). Leave BC 10 Nov except 2 Coudray who came yesterday who are well. All well. Went Dhaulagiri I next by SE Ridge again. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 Nov 78 French on Dhaulagiri I delayed by strong winds and snowfall; from C4 could go up only 300m. All well and waiting (about 1 week ago). Mrs Pollet-Villard - 23 Oct 78 C6 about 6700m - established 21 or 22 Oct 7000m. Route difficult, very steep and narrow and sharp, still expect to reach summit; 700m high pillar from 7000-7500m difficult. Sherpa Dawa Tenzing fell down a steep slope 1 week ago, hurt hip and leg. Weather good in am and above the clouds it is good, but cold and windy. Mrs Pollet-Villard went to BC 10 days by foot, arrive BC 2-3 days, stays until 1 Nov in KTM. All members in good health. Now 5 members in BC. Coudray - 4 Sept 78 Route tried by Japanese this spring at first and then went to successful route, SW Pillar. 10 climbers and 2 doctors for research with tape recorders on each member; they are climbers too but only to do medical work. Dr Grevy and Blanc arrived KTM 23 Sept for 2 days in KTM. All others will be here tomorrow. Leave tomorrow by plane to Pokhara; leave Pokhara 6 Sept. 220-250 porters to BC at 3600m where Japanese had theirs; arrive 19-20 Sept. 5 or 6 high camps depending on route. C1 4600m near icefall C2 5000m at Col (ABC) C3 5600m on ridge C4 6100m on ridge C5 7000m on ridge just Before last camp great difficulties: very steep rock C6 7500m - on top of difficulty and beginning of final ridge. Maybe a 7th very light camp 8 Sherpas and 5 local porters to lower camps Nawang Dorje is sirdar Are carrying oxygen in case of real difficulties in climb, but will try climb without including none for sleeping. Hope summit end of Oct; if not by 10 Nov, not possible because of wind and cold, and must be in Chamonix for opening of winter season in Dec.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449661
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw pillar

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denis Oliver Berholet M 1929 France Cameraman Rougemont, Vaud, Switzerland Cameraman, alpine guide & ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Anselme Francois Baud M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Pierre Blanc M 1942 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Jean Coudray M 1942 France Deputy Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Maurice Cretton M 1945 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Charles Daubas M 1945 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Alain Francois Grevy M 1940 France Exp Doctor Sallanches, Haute-Savoie, France Physician (surgeon) Details Other expeditions
Claude Guinet M 1929 France Charge of publicity Paris, France Printer Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Herry M 1948 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician (l'Ecole Nationale de Ski et d' Alpinisme) Details Other expeditions
Yvon Masino M 1940 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Georges Payot M 1937 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Yves Pollet-Villard M 1929 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Raymond Renaud M 1941 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Jean-Paul Vion M 1949 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Instructor at l'Ecole Naitonale de Ski et d' Alpinisme Details Other expeditions
Nawang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA178302 AAJ Pollet-Villard, Yves - - 53:277 (1979) -
DHA178302 HJ Coudray, Jean Attempt on the South Pillar of Dhaulagiri I (8172m) - 36:179-181 (1978-79) -
DHA178302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927700/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Buttress-Attempt - - -
DHA178302 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/33/expeditions-and-notes-36/ - - -