Dhaulagiri I | 1978 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via SE Ridge, led by Seiko Tanaka. Summit reached on 19th October 1978. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2150
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA178301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Seiko Tanaka
Sponsor Japan Gunma Himalaya Expedition 1978
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th,9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Chatan->BC
Basecamp Date 1978-08-22
Summit Date 1978-10-19
Summit Time 1235
Summit Days 58
Total Days 64
Termination Date 1978-10-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 7
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 4
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/08,4200m),C1(26/08,4850m),C2(30/08,5400m),C3(09/09,5850m),C4(21/09,6450m),C5A(02/10,6850),C5B(07/10,6950m),C6(14/10,7450m),C7(18/10,7800m),Smt(19,21/10)
Route Notes Yagihara - 27 Oct 78 Kogure alone at 6400m, about 7 ropes up above narrow C4 maybe slipped on ice ridge and then hanging; found in afternoon; he had left C4 8:00 am. Normally 2-3 hours C4 to C5 and sent 2 members from C5 (Hajimo Abe and Kazumi Kaneko) to search and they found him dead; must have slipped at 8:30-9:00; maybe hit hard on ice. Body buried near C4. Could not carry down more, too difficult and dangerous. 2nd summit success on 21 Oct, two days after first success. Yagihara should have gone to summit on 21 Oct, but instead had to take body down. SE Ridge route. Very long and very difficult. Found American red fixed rope (but could not use). Japanese got onto ridge below Americans point of getting onto it. Agreed "its a big mountain - too big for us." Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78 18 Oct established last camp C7 7550m. 19 Oct 3 members reached summit, stayed 20 minutes, returned to last C7 same day. 2nd ascent will be attempt on 20 Oct. 3rd group will also try summit. Ranjain, Express House - 2 Oct 78 Dhaulagiri I leader came to KTM via Jomsom to talk to his Japanese office; was here 3 days and left for BC by helicopter this morning. Expedition continues; bodies not found. Yagihara - 2 Aug 78 SE Ridge, same at 1973 US 1st goal All except Dr. now in KTM; Dr. arrive 5 Aug Leave KTM for Pokhara 6 Aug; caravan starts 8-10 Aug with about 200 porters Reach BC in 10 days at 4200m So early because not much experience on Dhaulagiri I in autumn and want to be before strong winds. 7 high camps, C7 at 7800m Summit attack 1st week Oct, oxygen for climbing; have about 25 bottles. 10 HA Sherpas and 6 low Sherpas from BC to C3. Lhakpa Tenzing = sirdar, but he not yet in KTM. Think BC to C4 most difficult part; above expect not so difficult: top ridge not so sharp in autumn because of snow; below C4 very steep rock.
Accidents 3 killed by avalanche, 1 killed by fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449649
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hajime Abe M 1953 Japan Climber Niisato, Gunma, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Akuzawa M 1943 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Factory worker for company producing telephones & computers Details Other expeditions
Ichiro Chigira M 1951 Japan Climber Ogo, Gunma, Japan Assistant to president (his father) of Co. that lays water pipes Details Other expeditions
Yujiro Fukasawa M 1949 Japan Climber Omama, Gunma, Japan Quality controller in electronics Co. making computer components Details Other expeditions
Junichi Fukuda M 1955 Japan Climber Kiryu, Gunma, Japan Technical student at Gumma University Details Other expeditions
Shinobu Ishikawa M 1945 Japan Climber Niisato, Gunma, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Kazumi Kaneko M 1953 Japan Climber Nitta, Gunma, Japan Factory worker in company producing clinical thermometers Details Other expeditions
Katsuyoshi Kogure M 1943 Japan Climbing Leader Issesaki, Gunma, Japan Sporting goods salesman Details Other expeditions
Kiyoshi Kobayashi M 1949 Japan Climber Suginami, Gunma, Japan Engineer with Kobayashi Motor Service Co. Details Other expeditions
Tomio Mashimo M 1948 Japan Climber Takasaki, Gunma, Japan Makes models for plastic die presses Details Other expeditions
Tsutomu Miyazaki M 1947 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Storekeeper and transport officer Details Other expeditions
Shoji Seki M 1936 Japan Exp Doctor Ota, Gunma, Japan Physician on staff Sammaibashi Hospital in Oota city Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Suzuki M 1955 Japan Climber Ota, Gunma, Japan Motorcar body stamping machine operator Details Other expeditions
Seiko Tanaka M 1935 Japan Leader Takasaki, Gunma, Japan Taxidermist Details Other expeditions
Hiroyuki Tani M 1952 Japan Climber Ogo, Gunma, Japan Taxi driver Details Other expeditions
Akira Ube M 1948 Japan Climber Minakemi, Gunma, Japan Japanese-style hotel room boy Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yagihara M 1946 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Installs gymnasium flooring Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan Installs telephones Details Other expeditions
Nawang Yonden Sherpa M 1952 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa M 1940 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal Climbing Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA178301 AAJ - - - 53:278 (1979) -
DHA178301 JAC Yagihara, Kuniaki The Ascent of Dhaulagiri I - From the South-East Ridge - 74:1-8 (1979) -
DHA178301 - Gunma Himalaya Expedition Dhaulagiri I, South East Ridge Gunma Himalaya Expedition, Maebashi, Japan - jK213
DHA178301 MM - - - 65:11 (Jan 1979) -
DHA178301 JAC Yagihara, Kuniaki The Ascent of Dhaulagiri I - From the South-East Ridge - 74:33-41 (1979) -
DHA178301 IWA - - - 67:147 (1979) -
DHA178301 IWA - - - 67:46-47 (1979) -
DHA178301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927801/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Southeast-Ridge - - -