Dhaulagiri I | 1978 SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via SE Ridge, led by Seiko Tanaka. Summit reached on 19th October 1978. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2150 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA178301 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Seiko Tanaka |
| Sponsor | Japan Gunma Himalaya Expedition 1978 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 8th,9th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Kali Gandaki->Chatan->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-08-22 |
| Summit Date | 1978-10-19 |
| Summit Time | 1235 |
| Summit Days | 58 |
| Total Days | 64 |
| Termination Date | 1978-10-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 18 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 4 |
| Total Hired | 10 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(22/08,4200m),C1(26/08,4850m),C2(30/08,5400m),C3(09/09,5850m),C4(21/09,6450m),C5A(02/10,6850),C5B(07/10,6950m),C6(14/10,7450m),C7(18/10,7800m),Smt(19,21/10) |
| Route Notes | Yagihara - 27 Oct 78 Kogure alone at 6400m, about 7 ropes up above narrow C4 maybe slipped on ice ridge and then hanging; found in afternoon; he had left C4 8:00 am. Normally 2-3 hours C4 to C5 and sent 2 members from C5 (Hajimo Abe and Kazumi Kaneko) to search and they found him dead; must have slipped at 8:30-9:00; maybe hit hard on ice. Body buried near C4. Could not carry down more, too difficult and dangerous. 2nd summit success on 21 Oct, two days after first success. Yagihara should have gone to summit on 21 Oct, but instead had to take body down. SE Ridge route. Very long and very difficult. Found American red fixed rope (but could not use). Japanese got onto ridge below Americans point of getting onto it. Agreed "its a big mountain - too big for us." Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78 18 Oct established last camp C7 7550m. 19 Oct 3 members reached summit, stayed 20 minutes, returned to last C7 same day. 2nd ascent will be attempt on 20 Oct. 3rd group will also try summit. Ranjain, Express House - 2 Oct 78 Dhaulagiri I leader came to KTM via Jomsom to talk to his Japanese office; was here 3 days and left for BC by helicopter this morning. Expedition continues; bodies not found. Yagihara - 2 Aug 78 SE Ridge, same at 1973 US 1st goal All except Dr. now in KTM; Dr. arrive 5 Aug Leave KTM for Pokhara 6 Aug; caravan starts 8-10 Aug with about 200 porters Reach BC in 10 days at 4200m So early because not much experience on Dhaulagiri I in autumn and want to be before strong winds. 7 high camps, C7 at 7800m Summit attack 1st week Oct, oxygen for climbing; have about 25 bottles. 10 HA Sherpas and 6 low Sherpas from BC to C3. Lhakpa Tenzing = sirdar, but he not yet in KTM. Think BC to C4 most difficult part; above expect not so difficult: top ridge not so sharp in autumn because of snow; below C4 very steep rock. |
| Accidents | 3 killed by avalanche, 1 killed by fall |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449649 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | se ridge |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hajime Abe | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Niisato, Gunma, Japan | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Akuzawa | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Factory worker for company producing telephones & computers | Details Other expeditions |
| Ichiro Chigira | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Ogo, Gunma, Japan | Assistant to president (his father) of Co. that lays water pipes | Details Other expeditions |
| Yujiro Fukasawa | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Omama, Gunma, Japan | Quality controller in electronics Co. making computer components | Details Other expeditions |
| Junichi Fukuda | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Kiryu, Gunma, Japan | Technical student at Gumma University | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinobu Ishikawa | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Niisato, Gunma, Japan | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazumi Kaneko | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Nitta, Gunma, Japan | Factory worker in company producing clinical thermometers | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuyoshi Kogure | M | 1943 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Issesaki, Gunma, Japan | Sporting goods salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Kiyoshi Kobayashi | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Suginami, Gunma, Japan | Engineer with Kobayashi Motor Service Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Tomio Mashimo | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Takasaki, Gunma, Japan | Makes models for plastic die presses | Details Other expeditions |
| Tsutomu Miyazaki | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Storekeeper and transport officer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoji Seki | M | 1936 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Ota, Gunma, Japan | Physician on staff Sammaibashi Hospital in Oota city | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Suzuki | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Ota, Gunma, Japan | Motorcar body stamping machine operator | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiko Tanaka | M | 1935 | Japan | Leader | Takasaki, Gunma, Japan | Taxidermist | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroyuki Tani | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Ogo, Gunma, Japan | Taxi driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Ube | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Minakemi, Gunma, Japan | Japanese-style hotel room boy | Details Other expeditions |
| Kuniaki Yagihara | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Installs gymnasium flooring | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Yamada | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Numata, Gunma, Japan | Installs telephones | Details Other expeditions |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | M | 1952 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Beding, Dolakha | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa | M | 1940 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Climbing Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA178301 | AAJ | - | - | - | 53:278 (1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | JAC | Yagihara, Kuniaki | The Ascent of Dhaulagiri I - From the South-East Ridge | - | 74:1-8 (1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | - | Gunma Himalaya Expedition | Dhaulagiri I, South East Ridge | Gunma Himalaya Expedition, Maebashi, Japan | - | jK213 |
| DHA178301 | MM | - | - | - | 65:11 (Jan 1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | JAC | Yagihara, Kuniaki | The Ascent of Dhaulagiri I - From the South-East Ridge | - | 74:33-41 (1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:147 (1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:46-47 (1979) | - |
| DHA178301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927801/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Southeast-Ridge | - | - | - |