Dhaulagiri I | 1978 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via S Ridge, led by Takashi Amemiya. Summit reached on 10th May 1978. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2138
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA178101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takashi Amemiya
Sponsor Tokyo Alpine Assoc Himalayan Exp to South Pillar of Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th,7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-03-17
Summit Date 1978-05-10
Summit Time 1125
Summit Days 54
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1978-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/03,3700m),Dep(18/03,4500m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(02/04,5820m),C3(12/04,6500m),C4(22/04,7060m),C5(09/05,7500m),Smt(10-11/05)
Route Notes Correct route for 1978 spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978) Shinizu - 29 May 78 5 members now in KTM. Leader and others arrive 31 May or so. 10 May summiters leave C5 6:00 am and on summit 11:30 am; returned to C4 4:00 pm. Good weather but moving in very strong wind, Kobayashi and Shigeno. BC->C1 glacier icefall - long way and wanted to make C1 at 4500m but avalanche danger prevented it - at 4500m had depot. C1->C2 - snow and ice face, very steep (60 degree) but no avalanche; steep part 500m vertical and all fixed rope; only room for 2 tents at C2 on small area. C2->C3 - 1st 100m rock face also 60 degrees; then knife-edge rock ridge; then again rock ridge so very steep required wire ladder (all members but only 5-6 Sherpas could negotiate wire ladders); then rock band traverse; then 500m rock ridge again C3 to C4 on 1st 100m of snow ridge; then snow and ice; 80m below C4 very difficult rock climbing. Only 3 Sherpas and 7 members reached C4. C4->C5 - all rock face to 7300m not difficult if no snow but this season much snow and which caused slipping (very small avalanches). C5->summit - very easy but long (5 km) - walking route from 100m above C1 to C5 all fixed rope - 6000m fixed rope used. On 11 May summiters: Shimizu, Y Kato, H Yoshimo and Ang Kami Sherpa; left C5 5:30 am, summited 12:30 pm, arrived C4 5:00 pm. Morning very good weather, 1:00 pm cloudy (rain at base camp but no snow high). Night time every day very strong wind and snow. No accidents or frostbite; only Naganuma ill, he died HA sickness [causing him to fall?] and body buried in crevasse. All members to Japan together about 10 June. SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 May 78 C5 7500m on 9 May. On 10 May 5:30 am started to climb and 11:25 am reached summit, stayed on top 45 minutes. South Pillar route; more dangerous and more difficult then other routes. 3rd Japanese attempt and 1st success by this route.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449487
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takashi Amemiya M 1936 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Member of Japanese Alpine Club, Tokyo Unryo and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Seiji Shimizu M 1945 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Member of RCC II, Housho Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Takuo Hirai M 1945 Japan Manager Tokyo, Japan Member of Japanese Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Katsumi Naganuma M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Member of Tokyo Keren Sangaku Doukou Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Yasuji Kato M 1949 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Member of Sony Sangakubu and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Toshiaki Kobayashi M 1948 Japan Climber Soka, Saitama, Japan Member of Housyo Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yoshino M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Tohan Club Souhyo and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Koichi Mikami M 1951 Japan Climber Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Member of Housyo Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Yasunori Hirahara M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Tokyo Kern Sangaku Doukou Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Tatsuji Shigeno M 1943 Japan Climber Kawaguchi, Saitama, Japan Member Nihon Tozan Yougu Kenkyu Kai and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Yoshimasa Sasaki M 1955 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Member of Tohan Club Souhyo and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Mitsuhisa Maeda M 1948 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan Member of Gumma University Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Yoshiko Kato M 1949 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Member of Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Zenpei Katayama M 1925 Japan Member - Member of Japanese Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Naomichi Kasuga M 1941 Japan Member Tokyo, Japan Member of Japanese Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Chheplung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA178101 AAJ Amemiya, Takashi - - 53:276-277 (1979) -
DHA178101 HJ Amemiya, Takashi South Pillar of Dhaulagiri - 36:41-43 (1978-79) -
DHA178101 JAC Amemiya, Takashi Dhauligiri I - First Ascent of the South Pillar - 74:22-32 (1979) -
DHA178101 - Tokyo Himalaya Expedition The Mountain of the White Devil By expedition, Tokyo - jT174
DHA178101 MM - - - 62:11 (Jul 1978) -
DHA178101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Dhaulagiri - 63:30-36 (Sep 1978) -
DHA178101 IWA - - - 67:146 (1979) -
DHA178101 IWA - - - 67:46 (1979) -
DHA178101 - Amemiya, Takashi Struggles for Dhaulagiri Nopuri, Tokyo - jA52
DHA178101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927603/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Buttress - - -
DHA178101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/10/south-pillar-of-dhaulagiri-i/ - - -