Dhaulagiri I | 1978 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1978 via S Ridge, led by Takashi Amemiya. Summit reached on 10th May 1978. 16 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2138 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA178101 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Takashi Amemiya |
| Sponsor | Tokyo Alpine Assoc Himalayan Exp to South Pillar of Dhaulagiri I |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 6th,7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Beni->Myagdi Khola (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1978-03-17 |
| Summit Date | 1978-05-10 |
| Summit Time | 1125 |
| Summit Days | 54 |
| Total Days | 66 |
| Termination Date | 1978-05-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 11 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(17/03,3700m),Dep(18/03,4500m),C1(27/03,5200m),C2(02/04,5820m),C3(12/04,6500m),C4(22/04,7060m),C5(09/05,7500m),Smt(10-11/05) |
| Route Notes | Correct route for 1978 spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was South Ridge (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978) Shinizu - 29 May 78 5 members now in KTM. Leader and others arrive 31 May or so. 10 May summiters leave C5 6:00 am and on summit 11:30 am; returned to C4 4:00 pm. Good weather but moving in very strong wind, Kobayashi and Shigeno. BC->C1 glacier icefall - long way and wanted to make C1 at 4500m but avalanche danger prevented it - at 4500m had depot. C1->C2 - snow and ice face, very steep (60 degree) but no avalanche; steep part 500m vertical and all fixed rope; only room for 2 tents at C2 on small area. C2->C3 - 1st 100m rock face also 60 degrees; then knife-edge rock ridge; then again rock ridge so very steep required wire ladder (all members but only 5-6 Sherpas could negotiate wire ladders); then rock band traverse; then 500m rock ridge again C3 to C4 on 1st 100m of snow ridge; then snow and ice; 80m below C4 very difficult rock climbing. Only 3 Sherpas and 7 members reached C4. C4->C5 - all rock face to 7300m not difficult if no snow but this season much snow and which caused slipping (very small avalanches). C5->summit - very easy but long (5 km) - walking route from 100m above C1 to C5 all fixed rope - 6000m fixed rope used. On 11 May summiters: Shimizu, Y Kato, H Yoshimo and Ang Kami Sherpa; left C5 5:30 am, summited 12:30 pm, arrived C4 5:00 pm. Morning very good weather, 1:00 pm cloudy (rain at base camp but no snow high). Night time every day very strong wind and snow. No accidents or frostbite; only Naganuma ill, he died HA sickness [causing him to fall?] and body buried in crevasse. All members to Japan together about 10 June. SR Sharma, Tourism - 11 May 78 C5 7500m on 9 May. On 10 May 5:30 am started to climb and 11:25 am reached summit, stayed on top 45 minutes. South Pillar route; more dangerous and more difficult then other routes. 3rd Japanese attempt and 1st success by this route. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449487 |
| Year | 1978 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
16 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takashi Amemiya | M | 1936 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Member of Japanese Alpine Club, Tokyo Unryo and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiji Shimizu | M | 1945 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Member of RCC II, Housho Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Takuo Hirai | M | 1945 | Japan | Manager | Tokyo, Japan | Member of Japanese Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsumi Naganuma | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Member of Tokyo Keren Sangaku Doukou Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuji Kato | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Member of Sony Sangakubu and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshiaki Kobayashi | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Soka, Saitama, Japan | Member of Housyo Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Yoshino | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Tohan Club Souhyo and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Koichi Mikami | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan | Member of Housyo Sangaku Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasunori Hirahara | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Tokyo Kern Sangaku Doukou Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Tatsuji Shigeno | M | 1943 | Japan | Climber | Kawaguchi, Saitama, Japan | Member Nihon Tozan Yougu Kenkyu Kai and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshimasa Sasaki | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Member of Tohan Club Souhyo and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Mitsuhisa Maeda | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | Member of Gumma University Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiko Kato | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Member of Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Zenpei Katayama | M | 1925 | Japan | Member | - | Member of Japanese Alpine Club | Details Other expeditions |
| Naomichi Kasuga | M | 1941 | Japan | Member | Tokyo, Japan | Member of Japanese Alpine Club and Yeti Doujin | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chheplung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA178101 | AAJ | Amemiya, Takashi | - | - | 53:276-277 (1979) | - |
| DHA178101 | HJ | Amemiya, Takashi | South Pillar of Dhaulagiri | - | 36:41-43 (1978-79) | - |
| DHA178101 | JAC | Amemiya, Takashi | Dhauligiri I - First Ascent of the South Pillar | - | 74:22-32 (1979) | - |
| DHA178101 | - | Tokyo Himalaya Expedition | The Mountain of the White Devil | By expedition, Tokyo | - | jT174 |
| DHA178101 | MM | - | - | - | 62:11 (Jul 1978) | - |
| DHA178101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Dhaulagiri | - | 63:30-36 (Sep 1978) | - |
| DHA178101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:146 (1979) | - |
| DHA178101 | IWA | - | - | - | 67:46 (1979) | - |
| DHA178101 | - | Amemiya, Takashi | Struggles for Dhaulagiri | Nopuri, Tokyo | - | jA52 |
| DHA178101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927603/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-South-Buttress | - | - | - |
| DHA178101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/10/south-pillar-of-dhaulagiri-i/ | - | - | - |