Dhaulagiri I | 1975 S Ridge
A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1975 via S Ridge, led by Takashi Amemiya. Summit reached on 19th April 1975. 21 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2307 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA175101 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 1975 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Takashi Amemiya |
| Sponsor | Tokyo Metropolitan Himalayan Expedition to South Pillar |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1975-03-01 |
| Summit Date | 1975-04-19 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 49 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 10 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult route and bad weather |
| High Point (m) | 6200 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 17 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 2 |
| Total Hired | 7 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 3 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(01/03,3460m),C1(06/03,4500m),C2(10/03,5270m),C3(18/03,5800m),xxx(19/04,6200m) |
| Route Notes | Correct route for 1975 Spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: South Ridge, not South Pillar (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978). Amemiya - 14 May 75 All in KTM. 11 arrive yesterday. 1st group leave 25 or 30 May; others 20 June after some go trekking others sightseeing. 1st group of 3 including leader. Numao and Imura ashes slowly sent ot Japan. C3 at 5800m on 18 March highest camp. 6200m highest point reached by Kazuharu Kohara, Takashi Maruyama, Yasuji Kato on 19 April. Started climbing 10 April again. Could not make C4. Route very difficult, weather bad, most Sherpas did not want to go on but these not main reasons: leader decided. South Pillar route is possible by some climbing route. No other accidents, no frostbite, no yeti. Fatal avalanche during night 25/26 March [1 am]. All 3 tents covered in C1 with 11 men. No one injured besides 5 killed. Heavy snowfall on 25 March. Ranjan Stopped climbing again after leader returned from quick trip to Tokyo where he received orders to stop. Most members wanted to keep climbing. MP Khanal, MFA - 10 April 75 Abandoned expedition; decision from Tokyo received yesterday. All bodies recovered next day after accident and cremated at BC. Leave BC next week for KTM. All climbing suspended since 26th March and all at BC. MP Khanal, MFA - 27 March 75 C3 established 18 March at 5800m by Seiji Shinizu, Motoyashi Tanaka and Dawa Norbu. MP Khanal MFA - 20 March 75 C2 established on 10 March at 5270m by Kohara, Maruyama and Kashima. Akira Takahashi - 24 Jan 75 Was here with Manaslu expedition. All members arrive KTM 15 Feb on TG Base camp on Myagdi Khola at 3500m Leave KTM 12 Feb by road to Pokhara; in Pokhara 3-4 days to arrange porters; leave Pokhara about 15 Feb by bus and then foot for 15 days. Arrive BC about 1 March. Most difficult climbing C2-C6; more difficult than Manaslu: vertical rock ridge on Dha I. C6 about 7600m Summit middle May 80 days BC->summit->BC 1 sirdar and 6 Sherpas, probably not able go above C2. Sirdar is Sange. 300-350 porters, about 12 tons baggage including climbing oxygen. |
| Accidents | 2 members and 3 Sherpas killed in avalanche 26 March |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448367 |
| Year | 1975 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s ridge |
Members
21 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Takashi Amemiya | M | 1936 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, sports shop in Tokyo | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuharu Kohara | M | 1940 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, furniture designing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Naomichi Kasuga | M | 1941 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Sales staff, home construction company | Details Other expeditions |
| Seiji Shimizu | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Warabi, Saitama, Japan | Staff member, Tokyo mountaineering & skiing goods manufacturer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Maruyama | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | House painter | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsumi Naganuma | M | 1945 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Engineer with radio manufacturing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Katsuo Ninomiya | M | - | Japan | Climber | Sayama, Saitama, Japan | Engineer with electrical appliance manufacturing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Susumu Ishikawa | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Motoyoshi Tanaka | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Komoro, Nagano, Japan | Vice president of Tanaka Construction Co., builders of dams, etc. | Details Other expeditions |
| Yorimichi Kashima | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Toyota motorcars salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuji Kato | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Engineer with Sony | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Ayabe | M | - | Japan | Climber | Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan | Tokyo city government official | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshitada Numao | M | - | Japan | Climber | Imaichi, Tochingi, Japan | Cabinetmaker | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshiaki Kobayashi | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Soka, Saitama, Japan | Seafood salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Tetsu Imura | M | - | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Salesman for fine chemicals company | Details Other expeditions |
| Akira Takahashi | M | 1914 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | President, button manufacturing company | Details Other expeditions |
| Kenichi Takemori | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | Sarushima, Ibaragi, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Kami Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dakiya Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dorje Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Sange Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA175101 | AAJ | Guha, Kamal K. | - | - | 50:520 (1976) | - |
| DHA175101 | - | Tokyo Himalaya Expedition | The Mountain of the White Devil | By expedition, Tokyo | - | jT174 |
| DHA175101 | MM | - | - | - | 44:10 (Jul 1975) | - |
| DHA175101 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Dhaulagiri | - | 63:30-36 (Sep 1978) | - |
| DHA175101 | IWA | - | - | - | 48:148 (1976) | - |
| DHA175101 | IWA | - | - | - | 48:59-60 (1976) | - |
| DHA175101 | - | Amemiya, Takashi | Struggles for Dhaulagiri | Nopuri, Tokyo | - | jA52 |
| DHA175101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197652002/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Attempt | - | - | - |