Dhaulagiri I | 1975 S Ridge

A Japan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 1975 via S Ridge, led by Takashi Amemiya. Summit reached on 19th April 1975. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2307
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA175101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 1975
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Takashi Amemiya
Sponsor Tokyo Metropolitan Himalayan Expedition to South Pillar
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1975-03-01
Summit Date 1975-04-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 49
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to difficult route and bad weather
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 17
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 7
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 3
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/03,3460m),C1(06/03,4500m),C2(10/03,5270m),C3(18/03,5800m),xxx(19/04,6200m)
Route Notes Correct route for 1975 Spring Japanese on Dhaulagiri I was: South Ridge, not South Pillar (according to Yves Pollet-Villard, Nov 1978). Amemiya - 14 May 75 All in KTM. 11 arrive yesterday. 1st group leave 25 or 30 May; others 20 June after some go trekking others sightseeing. 1st group of 3 including leader. Numao and Imura ashes slowly sent ot Japan. C3 at 5800m on 18 March highest camp. 6200m highest point reached by Kazuharu Kohara, Takashi Maruyama, Yasuji Kato on 19 April. Started climbing 10 April again. Could not make C4. Route very difficult, weather bad, most Sherpas did not want to go on but these not main reasons: leader decided. South Pillar route is possible by some climbing route. No other accidents, no frostbite, no yeti. Fatal avalanche during night 25/26 March [1 am]. All 3 tents covered in C1 with 11 men. No one injured besides 5 killed. Heavy snowfall on 25 March. Ranjan Stopped climbing again after leader returned from quick trip to Tokyo where he received orders to stop. Most members wanted to keep climbing. MP Khanal, MFA - 10 April 75 Abandoned expedition; decision from Tokyo received yesterday. All bodies recovered next day after accident and cremated at BC. Leave BC next week for KTM. All climbing suspended since 26th March and all at BC. MP Khanal, MFA - 27 March 75 C3 established 18 March at 5800m by Seiji Shinizu, Motoyashi Tanaka and Dawa Norbu. MP Khanal MFA - 20 March 75 C2 established on 10 March at 5270m by Kohara, Maruyama and Kashima. Akira Takahashi - 24 Jan 75 Was here with Manaslu expedition. All members arrive KTM 15 Feb on TG Base camp on Myagdi Khola at 3500m Leave KTM 12 Feb by road to Pokhara; in Pokhara 3-4 days to arrange porters; leave Pokhara about 15 Feb by bus and then foot for 15 days. Arrive BC about 1 March. Most difficult climbing C2-C6; more difficult than Manaslu: vertical rock ridge on Dha I. C6 about 7600m Summit middle May 80 days BC->summit->BC 1 sirdar and 6 Sherpas, probably not able go above C2. Sirdar is Sange. 300-350 porters, about 12 tons baggage including climbing oxygen.
Accidents 2 members and 3 Sherpas killed in avalanche 26 March
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448367
Year 1975
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Takashi Amemiya M 1936 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Staff member, sports shop in Tokyo Details Other expeditions
Kazuharu Kohara M 1940 Japan Deputy Leader Tokyo, Japan Staff member, furniture designing company Details Other expeditions
Naomichi Kasuga M 1941 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Sales staff, home construction company Details Other expeditions
Seiji Shimizu M 1945 Japan Climber Warabi, Saitama, Japan Staff member, Tokyo mountaineering & skiing goods manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Maruyama M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan House painter Details Other expeditions
Katsumi Naganuma M 1945 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer with radio manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Katsuo Ninomiya M - Japan Climber Sayama, Saitama, Japan Engineer with electrical appliance manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Susumu Ishikawa M - Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Motoyoshi Tanaka M 1948 Japan Climber Komoro, Nagano, Japan Vice president of Tanaka Construction Co., builders of dams, etc. Details Other expeditions
Yorimichi Kashima M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Toyota motorcars salesman Details Other expeditions
Yasuji Kato M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer with Sony Details Other expeditions
Noboru Ayabe M - Japan Climber Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan Tokyo city government official Details Other expeditions
Yoshitada Numao M - Japan Climber Imaichi, Tochingi, Japan Cabinetmaker Details Other expeditions
Toshiaki Kobayashi M 1948 Japan Climber Soka, Saitama, Japan Seafood salesman Details Other expeditions
Tetsu Imura M - Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Salesman for fine chemicals company Details Other expeditions
Akira Takahashi M 1914 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan President, button manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Takemori M - Japan Exp Doctor Sarushima, Ibaragi, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Pasang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dakiya Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Sange Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA175101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 50:520 (1976) -
DHA175101 - Tokyo Himalaya Expedition The Mountain of the White Devil By expedition, Tokyo - jT174
DHA175101 MM - - - 44:10 (Jul 1975) -
DHA175101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Dhaulagiri - 63:30-36 (Sep 1978) -
DHA175101 IWA - - - 48:148 (1976) -
DHA175101 IWA - - - 48:59-60 (1976) -
DHA175101 - Amemiya, Takashi Struggles for Dhaulagiri Nopuri, Tokyo - jA52
DHA175101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197652002/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-I-Attempt - - -