Dhaulagiri I | 2023 NE Ridge

A Russia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2023 via NE Ridge, led by Roman Abildaev. Summit reached on 8th October 2023. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11237
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA123304
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2023
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Roman Abildaev
Sponsor Russian Dhaulgiri Expedition 2023
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2023-09-26
Summit Date 2023-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal fall
High Point (m) 7200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/09),C1(6050m),C2(6700m),C3(7200m),xxx
Route Notes The climber trio flying to BC on 9/26. At his arrival, there was only the Elite team with 2 climbers who would soon leave BC. 28/10 marked the glacier up to the Eiger. On the 29th they started acclimation to 6050m to sleep. Cloudy weather with visibility of 50m. At dawn it had snowed and descended into BC in front of bad weather forecast with a front set to reach Dhaulagiri between 3-4 Oct. Heavy 1m snowfall in BC. On Oct 1st the climbers of Manaslu reached BC who were also going to attempt Dhaulagiri. After a week in BC with bad weather, they also left BC in the face of bad weather forecast (info via Allie Pepper). • 6/10: climb back to 6500m. Shops buried in snow, locating them with probes. • 7/10: Ascent to 6700m. The next day they want to reach 7200-7400m. There is a lot of snow coming down. • 8/10: The team exceeds 7000m and spend the night at 7200m. Report of very strong winds: • 9/10: Going down to BC. Abildaev reports they were a bit tired, but everything was fine. Although the acclimation trip was tricky with lots of snow and yesterday a hurricane wind blew all day long in excess of 70 mph, but today they got a small bonus. On the descent to C1, they tried to find an object again (descendor?) they lost on the first exit and managed to find it buried under 2m of snow. The are now resting and plan to recover for at least three davs. From the Himalayan Times, Oct 14, 2023 A Russian woman climber has gone missing when she fell into crevasse above 6000m on Mt. Dhaulagiri this morning. According to sources, the incident occurred at around 11:25 am when a three-member team of Russian climbers attempted to climb Dhaulagiri without using base camp or Sherpa support. The missing woman climber has been identified as Nadezhda Oleneva, 38. "She has fallen into crevasse from around 6680m," sources said. Her teammates- Roman Abildaev and Radom Kashapov- who are now above the base camp, reported that she has fallen some 500m below as per the GPS coordinates.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462744
Year 2023
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Roman Abildaev M 1984 Russia Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Rasim Kashapov M 1971 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Nadezhda Oleneva F 1985 Russia Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA123304 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/rescuers-fail-to-retrieve-russian-climbers-body-from-deep-snow-on-dhaulagiri - - -
DHA123304 - - https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/russian-woman-climber-nadezhda-oleneva-missing-in-crevasse-fall-on-dhaulagiri - - -