Dhaulagiri I | 2021 NE Ridge

A India expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2021 via NE Ridge, led by Piyali Basak. Summit reached on 1st October 2021. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10693
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA121305
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2021
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality India
Leaders Piyali Basak
Sponsor Pioneer Adventure Dhaulagiri Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Hungary, Nepal, Russia, Spain, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2021-10-01
Summit Time 0530
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites Smt(01/10)
Route Notes Pioneer Adventure Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Pioneer provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below: Piyali Basak (India) Appr: Trekked from Marpha->French Pass->BC Camps: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(23/09,6300m),C2.5(28/09,7000m), C3(29/09,7250m),Smt(01/10) Left: 03/10 by heli to Pokhara Hired: 1 Term: Success at 6:30 am by Basak and Danuru Sherpa. Basak and Danuru did not do an acclimatisation rotation because there was not enough time for the weather window. On 23/09 Basak ascended to C2 (without crampons!!) and Danuru to BC. The weather got bad when Basak was at C2, she stayed at C2. On 25/09 Danuru joined Basak at C2 and picked up her crampons from C1 on the way. On 28/09 the team started their ascent to C3, but it was very deep snow. They did not reach C3 and put up an intermediate camp at 7000m and ascended to C3 on 29/09. They started their summit push on 29/09 at 9 pm from C3. Basak carried one bottle of oxygen in her rucksack, but did not use it. They reached about 7700m, but there was a lot of snow and a big snowstorm. They returned to C3 on 30/09 at 1 am. On 30/09, team started their second summit push at 8 pm. Basak was more confident that she could summit without oxygen and left the oxygen at high camp. They stayed 30 mins on the summit and descended to C2 where they reached between 8 pm and 9 pm. On 02/10 to BC. Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 only by Danuru Sherpa. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (Nepal) Appr: Trekked from Marpha->French Pass->BC Camps: BC(17/09,4700m),C1(21/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6350m),C2.5(28/09,6800m), C3(29/09,7250m),Smt(01/10) Left: 03/10 by heli to Pokhara Hired: 1 Term: Success at 5:45 am by Pasang Lhamu together with rope-fixing team. On rotation, the rope-fixing team fixed to C3 and returned to C2 on 22/09. Pasang Lhamu was intending to reach C3 that time, but as the weather window was going to be on 29/09 she returned to BC to rest and get ready for the summit push. On summit rotation, Pasang Lhamu and the fixing team went to C2 direct on 27/09. On 28/09, they intended to get to C3, but the snow was too deep, so they set up a camp at 6800m. On 29/09 at 9 pm, she left with the fixing team for the summit, but they turned back at around 7600m because the snow was too deep and it was too windy. They returned to C3. The fixing team left again on 30/09 at 10 am and stayed on the ridge which was possible during the day as it was not so windy. They took the center couloirs which end up directly on the summit. The fixing team summited at 5:45 am [note: other reports give summit time as 5:30 am for fixing team]. On 30/09 Pasang left C3 at 6 pm on her own. The weather was calm and clear. The snow was very loose and there was no fixed rope on the traverse to the couloirs. She had to wait on the bottom of the couloirs for the fixing team to finish. She was with the Chinese lady Jing who went without oxygen. Pasang stayed for about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to BC where she arrived at 10 pm. Left BC on 04/10 by heli. Oxygen: Taken, used from C3 to top to C3 by Pasang Lhamu. Luke Smithwick (USA) Iain Kuo (USA) Appr: Besisahar->Karte->Marpha->BC Camps: BC(17/09,4650m),C1(20/09,5840m),C2(28/09,6426m),xxx(29/09,6750m) Left: 02/10 to Marpha Hired: 0 Term: High-point by Smithwick and Kuo Tean never made a summit push as they saw no sense in going higher with no forecast and no acclimatization yet to do so. They descended to BC, and Marc De Keyser explained to them that there was no summit window in the coming 10 days. They left no fixed ropes on the mountain and skied from 6750m to the icefall. Conditions were deep snow, they shared in trail breaking with the team that was paid to break trail and fix ropes. Fixed rope: 1000m Oxygen: Not taken, not used. From Palkesh Kalma (from www.curlytales.com): Palkesh said that his best mountaineering experience was when he had first climbed a 7000-metre peak. Elucidating the experience, he said, “During the summit push I continuously climbed for almost 10 hours and reached the Summit early morning and saw a sunrise from there.” When asked about his toughest mountaineering experience, Palkesh said, “On my recent expedition to Dhaulagiri. I climbed continuously for more than 24 hours on the Summit day where I left for the Summit around 5:50 PM on 30th evening, reached the summit of Dhaulagiri (8167m) around 6:15 AM on 1st October and came back directly to Base Camp (4700m) around 8:50 PM on the same day.” Dhaulagiri is the 7th highest mountain peak in the world.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Pioneer Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464570
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Piyali Basak F 1987 India Leader Chandannagar, West Bengal, India Salesperson for trekking equipment Details Other expeditions
Varga Csaba M 1982 Hungary Climber Nagyvarad, Transylvania, Romania Architect Details Other expeditions
Aleix De Rivas Pou M 1979 Spain Climber Barcelona, Spain Firefighter Details Other expeditions
Ekaterina Nikolaevna Kalabukhova F 1984 Russia Climber St. Petersburg, Russia Financial analyst Details Other expeditions
Palkesh G. Kalma M 1989 India Climber Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India - Details Other expeditions
Baljeet Kaur F 1995 India Climber Mamligh, Solan, HP, India Armed forces of India Details Other expeditions
Iain Garrahan Wen-Jun Kuo M 1993 USA Climber Gwynedd Valley, Pennsylvania Waiter Details Other expeditions
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita F 1984 Nepal Climber Gumela, Chaurikharka, Khumbu Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
James Luke Smithwick M 1979 USA Climber Victor, Idaho Owner-founder of alpine guiding company Details Other expeditions
Danuru Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Dobhane-9, Bhojpur - Details Other expeditions
Pema Tshering Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA121305 - - https://thewire.in/sport/piyali-basak-baljit-kaur-dhaulagiri-record - - -
DHA121305 - - https://curlytales.com/mountaineer-from-ahmedabad-palkesh-kalma-kanchenjunga-dhaulagiri/ - - -
DHA121305 - - https://www.localsamosa.com/2022/01/10/sherpas-the-backbone-of-expeditions-in-the-himalayas-via-the-story-of-traveller-palkesh-kalma/ - - -
DHA121305 - - https://explorersweb.com/breaking-dhaulagiri-summits/ - - -
DHA121305 - - https://hungarytoday.hu/five-8000m-peaks-conquered-by-hungarian-mountaineer/ - - -