Dhaulagiri I | 2017 NE Ridge

A Ecuador expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2017 via NE Ridge, led by Santiago Quintero. Summit reached on 19th May 2017. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9434
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA117107
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2017
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ecuador
Leaders Santiago Quintero
Sponsor Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Iran, Italy, Japan, Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2017-04-09
Summit Date 2017-05-19
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 40
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2017-04-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04),C1,C2,C3,Smt(19-20/05)
Route Notes Seven Summit Treks Dhaulagiri expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below: Santiago Quintero (Ecuador) Name: Ecuador en todo lo alto 14x8000 Appr: Marpha, then helicopter to BC Camps: BC(12/04,4600m),C1(15/04,5700m),C2(05/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7300m),Smt(20/05) Left: 23/05/2016 Hired: 0 Term: Success on 20/05 at 5:30 pm by Quintero, Mingma [Thindu] On summit push Quintero and Mingma set off from C3 at 3 am. Conditions were good in the beginning, only a little bit of snow. Very long and hard traverse from 7400m to the summit. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. Dangerous conditions on the summit, it was stormy, the air was full of electricity and tension, there was thunder and lightning, and it was snowing heavily. They got back to C3 at 10 pm. Going down was dangerous because it was icy and the terrain was steep, no fixed rope. Mingma and Quintero roped up, if one of them had slipped, they might have both fell. At C3, Quintero developed cerebral edema and his condition deteriorated quickly. According to him he would have died without Mingma. On 21 May they descended to C2, Quintero was in bad condition and descended with great difficulty. On 22 May they were on their way to BC. At C1 he was taken to BC by helicopter against his will [ Marco Confortola says Santiago was rescued from C2]. According to him, he had not asked for a helicopter rescue, but his friend Marco Confortola, who was involved in a rescue of 6 Indians suffering from severe frostbite, "forced" him into the rescue, clipping him by carabiner into the rescue line of the helicopter against Quintero's will. The helicopter was flown by an Italian friend of Confortola. Fixed rope: From BC to C3 and at summit couloirs (last 100m below summit). Oxygen: taken and used by Mingma from C3 to summit and down to C3. Qunitero claims he did not use oxygen, but the Spanish team led by Carlos Soria said he was given oxygen on the way down. Mingma Sherpa confirms Santiago used three bottles of oxygen. Mingma had to buy them from other groups; and people of Adventure Consultants put him a dexamethasone injection. Marco Confortola (Italy) Marco Camandona (Italy) Name: Marco Confortola e Marco Camandona al Dhaulagiri 2017 Appr: French Pass->Italian BC Camps: BC(14/04,4600m),C1(17/04,5600m),C2(22/04,6500m),C3(19/05,7500m),Smt(20/05) Left: 25/05/2016 Hired: 0 Term: Success on 20/05 at 5:30 pm Summit team left C3 at 3 am. They had intended to leave at 6 pm on 19 May, but it was too windy. So they waited until the winds died down and left at 3 am. Straightforward climb, but Confortola says that Dhaulagiri is a dangerous mountain due to weather and avalanching. On the summit, they were caught in a thunderstorm. They started to descend at 6 pm. Casanova descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 am. Confortola stayed at C3, where he arrived at 9 pm. On 21 May, Confortola descended to C2, picked up Casanova, packed up and descended to BC. Santiago Quintero was also at C3, but he was very unwell. He remained there for two days and on 23 May he was picked up by helicopter from C2. Confortola is a helicopter rescuer and he did the long-line rescue for the Indian and Quintero. Oxygen: not taken, not used. Note: The summit claims of Marco Confortola for ANN1, DHA1, LHOT, MAKA and KANG are now in dispute; see articles published by Explorers Web and Lo Scarpone (portal of the Italian Alpine Club). A summit photo of Confortola sent to Billi Bierling by Silvio Mondinelli on 9 August shows Confortola on a lower summit ridge. Mondinelli told Bierling that the real summit was more than 30 minutes away. Seyed Hadi Sattar Forough (Iran) Name: Iranian Dhaulagiri Expedition 2017 Appr: By road to Darbang->Italian BC Camps: BC(20/04,4600m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(24/04,6500m),C3(16/05,7300m),Smt(19/05) Left: 23/05/2016 Hired: 0 Term: Success on 19/05 at 4 pm Sattar stayed at C3 for two nights as there was no fixed ropes. On 18 May he left C3 at 11 pm together with Kazemi and Pennington, following the rope-fixing Sherpas. At 7800m the fixing group stopped and said they were finished. He still continued to follow Kazemi and Pennington, who had fixed 60m of rope just below the couloir. In the couloir he used old fixed rope He spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 11:30 pm. Kazemi (different expedition) had already found Sattar's tent that had been moved and broken. Sattar joined Kazemi at 11:30 pm. Sattar Fourugh descended to BC on 20 May. He took the direct route through the crevasses and was lucky not to fall in (Kazemi said that). Left BC on 23 May. Oxygen: not taken, not used. Inigo Castineyra (Spain) Appr: Marpha->Hidden Valley->BC Camps: BC(09/04,4700m),C1(21/04,5700m),C2(06/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),xxx Left: 24/05/2016 Hired: 1 Term: Abandoned at 7200m due to bad weather forecast Kenichi Kubo (Japan) Hideki Nakayama (Japan) Appr: Deli->Khamla->Jeltung->Doban->Sallagari->Italian BC Camps: BC(17/04,4700m),C1(23/04,5700m),C2(04/05,6435m),C3(17/05,7400m), xxx(18/05,7800m) Left: 23/05/2016 Hired: 2 Term: Abandoned at 7800m due by Nakayama to strong wind and no-fixed rope. Nakayama arrived at C3 (7400m) on 17 May and set out for summit on 18 May, got to 7800m and turned back due to strong winds and lack of fixed rope. Kubo went to C3 on 18 May, but did not attempt the summit due to exhaustion and returned to BC. Sherpas: Chhongba, Gudel-5, 31/12/89 Ongchu
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463780
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marco Confortola M 1971 Italy Climber Valfurva, Sondrio, Italy Alpine guide & rescuer Details Other expeditions
Mario Casanova M 1970 Italy Climber Peio, Trentino, Italy Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Santiago Quintero Sylva M 1974 Ecuador Leader Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mingma Thinduk Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Seyed Hadi Sattar Forough M 1982 Iran Climber Tabriz, Iran Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Inigo Castineyra Lerchundi M 1963 Spain Leader San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa, Spain Taxi driver Details Other expeditions
Dowa Sherpa M 1960 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Kenichi Kubo M 1949 Japan Climber Yokohama, Kanagawa, Japan Retired Details Other expeditions
Hideki Nakayama M 1954 Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA117107 - - https://explorersweb.com/italian-climber-accused-of-fake-summit-claims/ - - -
DHA117107 - - https://www.loscarpone.cai.it/dettaglio/confortola-risponde-a-moro-sono-stato-in-cima-al-lhotse-mi-vuole-infangare/ - - -
DHA117107 - - https://www.loscarpone.cai.it/dettaglio/marco-confortola-la-fine-degli-ottomila/ - - -