Dhaulagiri I | 2017 NE Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2017 via NE Ridge, led by Guy Cotter. Summit reached on 22nd May 2017. 25 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9404
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA117101
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2017
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Guy Cotter
Sponsor Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Colombia, France, India, Poland, Singapore, UK, USA
Approach Drive Beni to Khare
Basecamp Date 2017-04-25
Summit Date 2017-05-22
Summit Time 0515
Summit Days 27
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2017-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 10
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 10
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,4750m),C1(03/05,5750m),C1.5(05/05,6200m),C2(21/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7450m),Smt(22/05)
Route Notes BC 25/04 4750m C1 03/05 5750m C1.5 05/05 6200m (only on first rotation) C2 13/05 6400m C3 21/05 7450m Smt 22/05 by Cotter at 5:15 am, Bradey, Staples, Smolokowska, Lopez, Adams, Fox, Garrood, Doshi and all Sherpas listed below between 5:45 am and 6 am; Chandesris at 7 am (without O2). Summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 21 May. At about 11 pm, they found an Indian climber sitting on a rock at 7650m suffering from severe frostbite. They called down to their doctor Sara, who then went to the Indian team to tell them that there was a lost Indian up on the mountain. Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about one hour, and started their descent. At 9:30 am, they reached the Indian in distress again. He must have had HACE as he had taken off his clothes. Cotter injected some dexamethasone and together with Pemba, Tenji and Nima lowered him down to C3, which took them about 1-1/2 hours. Indian stayed with them for about 1 hour and then the Sherpas from the Indian team came and picked him up. After a short break, everyone descended from C3 to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm, apart from Cotter and Fox, who arrived at 6:30 pm. Fox was suffering from a severe asthma attack. It did not get better and she was evacuated by heli to Kathmandu on 24 May. On 23 May all BC. Ong, Leow and Grover reached 6500m. Ong was suffering from the effects of altitude. Leow was his friend and decided to abandon the expedition with him. Grover went home for personal reasons. Additional info: When the team arrived at C3, Santiago Quintero from Ecuador was sick and on his way down. Cotter gave him dexamethasone. When they reached C3, two Indians came through the camp. They had left on 19 May and were still up there on 21 May. The team gave them fluids and oxygen and shelter. Some Sherpas were coming up to collect them and they descended. One of the Indian teams also lost a Sherpa. He went missing and was seen by the helicopter pilot below the traverse. He must have fallen off a substantial cliff. 5 oxygen bottles from C3 went missing on the expedition. Doshi is the first Singaporean to climb Dhaulagiri I. Cotter, Staples and Bradey are the first New Zealanders. Fixed rope: from C2 to C3. Oxygen: Not taken, not used by Pemba, Chandesris Used from 7100m to top to C3 by members; C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas. Summit Sherpas: Pemba Sherpa (also goes by Prakash) Tsering Namgyal Sherpa Nima Sherpa, Solu (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016) Pasang Sherpa, Sankhuwasava (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016) Mingma Thindu Sherpa [Phurba] Dorjee Sherpa Chhiring Sherpa Dawa Sherpa, Sankhuwasava Da Pasang Sherpa Dawa Tenji Sherpa
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463783
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

25 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edmund Guy Cotter M 1962 New Zealand Leader Lake Hawea, New Zealand Alpine guide & outdoor adventure company executive Details Other expeditions
Dean Douglas Staples M 1964 New Zealand Deputy Leader Hawea, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lydia Margaret Bakewell Bradey F 1961 New Zealand Climbing Guide Wanaka, New Zealand Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Baptiste Francois Daniel Chandesris M 1989 France Climbing Guide Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tze Boon Ong M 1968 Singapore Climber Singapore Architect Details Other expeditions
Kah Shin Leow M 1979 Singapore Climber Singapore Fund manager Details Other expeditions
Izabela Katarzyna Smolokowska F 1964 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Hotelier Details Other expeditions
Claudia Patricia Lopez Gutierrez F 1968 Colombia/USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Photographer Details Other expeditions
Thomas John Adams M 1978 UK Climber Sunbury-on-Thames, Surrey, England Subsea operations manager Details Other expeditions
Charlotte Conant Fox F 1957 USA Climber Telluride, Colorado Retired ski patroller Details Other expeditions
Jonathan William Garrood M 1977 Australia Climber Perth, WA, Australia Scaffolder Details Other expeditions
Harpreet Singh Grover M 1983 India Climber Gurgaon, Haryana, India - Details Other expeditions
Dhiren Dinesh Chandra Doshi M 1974 Singapore Climber Singapore Business consultant Details Other expeditions
Sara Jane Gordon F 1977 New Zealand Exp Doctor Auckland, New Zealand Physician Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M 1961 Nepal Sirdar Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba (Prakash) Sherpa M 1992 Nepal H-A Worker Pawai-1, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ngima/Nima Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Bishinga-8, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tenzing (Pasang Tenje) Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Thindu Sherpa M 1980 Nepal H-A Worker Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Phura Dorje Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chhiring Sherpa M 1994 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dawa Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Tenji Sherpa M 1995 Nepal H-A Worker Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Da Pasang Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-4, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA117101 - - http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Dhaulagiri_Dispatches2017/ - - -