Dhaulagiri I | 2017 NE Ridge
A New Zealand expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2017 via NE Ridge, led by Guy Cotter. Summit reached on 22nd May 2017. 25 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 9404 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | DHA117101 |
| Peak ID | DHA1 |
| Year | 2017 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | NE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Guy Cotter |
| Sponsor | Adventure Consultants Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2017 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Australia, Colombia, France, India, Poland, Singapore, UK, USA |
| Approach | Drive Beni to Khare |
| Basecamp Date | 2017-04-25 |
| Summit Date | 2017-05-22 |
| Summit Time | 0515 |
| Summit Days | 27 |
| Total Days | 31 |
| Termination Date | 2017-05-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8167 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 14 |
| Summit Members | 10 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 11 |
| Summit Hired | 10 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/04,4750m),C1(03/05,5750m),C1.5(05/05,6200m),C2(21/05,6400m),C3(21/05,7450m),Smt(22/05) |
| Route Notes | BC 25/04 4750m C1 03/05 5750m C1.5 05/05 6200m (only on first rotation) C2 13/05 6400m C3 21/05 7450m Smt 22/05 by Cotter at 5:15 am, Bradey, Staples, Smolokowska, Lopez, Adams, Fox, Garrood, Doshi and all Sherpas listed below between 5:45 am and 6 am; Chandesris at 7 am (without O2). Summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 21 May. At about 11 pm, they found an Indian climber sitting on a rock at 7650m suffering from severe frostbite. They called down to their doctor Sara, who then went to the Indian team to tell them that there was a lost Indian up on the mountain. Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about one hour, and started their descent. At 9:30 am, they reached the Indian in distress again. He must have had HACE as he had taken off his clothes. Cotter injected some dexamethasone and together with Pemba, Tenji and Nima lowered him down to C3, which took them about 1-1/2 hours. Indian stayed with them for about 1 hour and then the Sherpas from the Indian team came and picked him up. After a short break, everyone descended from C3 to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm, apart from Cotter and Fox, who arrived at 6:30 pm. Fox was suffering from a severe asthma attack. It did not get better and she was evacuated by heli to Kathmandu on 24 May. On 23 May all BC. Ong, Leow and Grover reached 6500m. Ong was suffering from the effects of altitude. Leow was his friend and decided to abandon the expedition with him. Grover went home for personal reasons. Additional info: When the team arrived at C3, Santiago Quintero from Ecuador was sick and on his way down. Cotter gave him dexamethasone. When they reached C3, two Indians came through the camp. They had left on 19 May and were still up there on 21 May. The team gave them fluids and oxygen and shelter. Some Sherpas were coming up to collect them and they descended. One of the Indian teams also lost a Sherpa. He went missing and was seen by the helicopter pilot below the traverse. He must have fallen off a substantial cliff. 5 oxygen bottles from C3 went missing on the expedition. Doshi is the first Singaporean to climb Dhaulagiri I. Cotter, Staples and Bradey are the first New Zealanders. Fixed rope: from C2 to C3. Oxygen: Not taken, not used by Pemba, Chandesris Used from 7100m to top to C3 by members; C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas. Summit Sherpas: Pemba Sherpa (also goes by Prakash) Tsering Namgyal Sherpa Nima Sherpa, Solu (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016) Pasang Sherpa, Sankhuwasava (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016) Mingma Thindu Sherpa [Phurba] Dorjee Sherpa Chhiring Sherpa Dawa Sherpa, Sankhuwasava Da Pasang Sherpa Dawa Tenji Sherpa |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2463783 |
| Year | 2017 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | ne ridge |
Members
25 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edmund Guy Cotter | M | 1962 | New Zealand | Leader | Lake Hawea, New Zealand | Alpine guide & outdoor adventure company executive | Details Other expeditions |
| Dean Douglas Staples | M | 1964 | New Zealand | Deputy Leader | Hawea, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Lydia Margaret Bakewell Bradey | F | 1961 | New Zealand | Climbing Guide | Wanaka, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Baptiste Francois Daniel Chandesris | M | 1989 | France | Climbing Guide | Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Tze Boon Ong | M | 1968 | Singapore | Climber | Singapore | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Kah Shin Leow | M | 1979 | Singapore | Climber | Singapore | Fund manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Izabela Katarzyna Smolokowska | F | 1964 | Poland | Climber | Warsaw, Poland | Hotelier | Details Other expeditions |
| Claudia Patricia Lopez Gutierrez | F | 1968 | Colombia/USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas John Adams | M | 1978 | UK | Climber | Sunbury-on-Thames, Surrey, England | Subsea operations manager | Details Other expeditions |
| Charlotte Conant Fox | F | 1957 | USA | Climber | Telluride, Colorado | Retired ski patroller | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan William Garrood | M | 1977 | Australia | Climber | Perth, WA, Australia | Scaffolder | Details Other expeditions |
| Harpreet Singh Grover | M | 1983 | India | Climber | Gurgaon, Haryana, India | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dhiren Dinesh Chandra Doshi | M | 1974 | Singapore | Climber | Singapore | Business consultant | Details Other expeditions |
| Sara Jane Gordon | F | 1977 | New Zealand | Exp Doctor | Auckland, New Zealand | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | Sirdar | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba (Prakash) Sherpa | M | 1992 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pawai-1, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chhiring Namgyal/Namgel Sherpa | M | 1991 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ngima/Nima Sherpa | M | 1980 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Bishinga-8, Okhaldhunga | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Tenzing (Pasang Tenje) Sherpa | M | 1981 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Mingma Thindu Sherpa | M | 1980 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phura Dorje Sherpa | M | 1984 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Chhiring Sherpa | M | 1994 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Dawa Sherpa | M | 1979 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Tenji Sherpa | M | 1995 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Da Pasang Sherpa | M | 1990 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DHA117101 | - | - | http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Dhaulagiri_Dispatches2017/ | - | - | - |