Dhaulagiri I | 2016 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2016 via NE Ridge, led by Juanita Oiarzabal. Summit reached on 19th May 2016. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9051
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA116104
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2016
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Juanita Oiarzabal
Sponsor Spaniards on Dhaulagiri I 2016
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via helicopter to BC
Basecamp Date 2016-04-18
Summit Date 2016-05-19
Summit Time 0630
Summit Days 31
Total Days 34
Termination Date 2016-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,4670m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6550m),C3(17/05,7250m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes BC 18/04 4670m C1 22/04 5900m C2 23/04 6550m C3 17/05 7250m Smt 19/05 at 6:30 am by Zerain and Mariano Galvan (from different agency). Zerain and Galvan left C3 at 12:30 am. On summit push, Danny Gordin from Israel, Rajib Bhattacharya (the Indian, who died), and Paul Hudson were also on the way. They reached C2 on 16 May and even though they were intending to summit from C2 they went up to C3 on 17 May as they were very tired. The British team had left C3 five hours ahead of Zerain and Galvan, but they overtook them at about 3 am. The British team was fixing ropes. It was a very windy. Zerain and Galvan spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C2, where Zerain arrived at 6 pm. Galvan continued to BC where he arrived at 8:30 pm. Rajib and Tashi Sherpa were also on the way to the summit. Zerain and Galvan overtook them at about 3 am at 7650m. When Zerain came down from the summit he saw Rajib and Tashi also descending, but they were still at the same point at 12 noon. Zerain does not think that Rajib was on the summit. When Zerain reached C3 at about 2 pm he prepared some food. He did not notice that Rajib had been so unwell. Zerain believes that Rajib must have descended a bit farther, but died at about 6600m. He was snowblind and had frostbite. When Zerain reached C2, he heard that the Indian had died. On 20 May Zerain descended to BC. Oiarzabal reached C2 on 23 April. He felt very sick up there and descended to BC on 24 April. At BC he found out that he had a collapsed lung and his pulse was very fast. The doctor of the British expedition told him to abandon the expedition.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463414
Year 2016
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Leader Vitoria-Gasteiz, Alava, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alberto Zerain Berasategui M 1961 Spain Climber Vitoria-Gasteiz, Alava, Spain Truck driver Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA116104 - - http://desnivel.com/expediciones/alberto-zerain-inicia-el-ataque-a-la-cima-del-dhaulagiri- - - -