Dhaulagiri I | 2015 SW Pillar (to 7100m)

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2015 via SW Pillar (to 7100m), led by Yannick Graziani. Summit reached on 10th October 2015. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8982
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA115301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2015
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Pillar (to 7100m)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Yannick Graziani
Sponsor French Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Darbang->Italian BC
Basecamp Date 2015-09-19
Summit Date 2015-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2015-10-17
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to bad, unstable weather
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/09,3660m),IC(20/09,4400m),ABC(23/09,5100m),C1(27/09,5900m),C2(01/10,6100m),C3(02/10,6600m),C4(09/10,6900m),Biv(10/10,7050m),(10-11/10,7100m)
Route Notes BC 19/09 3660m IC 20/09 4400m ABC 23/09 5100m C1 27/09 5900m C2 01/10 6100m C3 02/10 6600m C4 09/10 6900m Biv 10/10 7050m HPt 10-11/10 7100m at superior neve of SW Buttress by both members. Fixed rope: 500m 150 below ABC for the porters security 350m on the pillar for their own security in case of bad weather during descent. 21/09: from 4400m avalanche-prone intermediate camp, did carry gear up to 50m below future ABC (exposed traverse). 22/09: rested 23-25/09: ABC proper installation from 23/10, equipping 300m of fixed ropes for the porters. During that period, both members climbed up to 5665m col (between Manapathi and Dhaulagiri I) to have an overview of the pillar. 1st session: 25-27/09: by couloir, up to 5900m shoulder place on the SW Pillar, afoot of a 200m rock pillar. This section exposed mainly south would be climbed unroped for security reasons regarding potential rock/ice falls. Lower couloir like 50° average with some 70/80° sections, main couloir like 50° steep with last 2-5 pitches at 70° (here they would rope again). Equipped above 5900m the pillar in 2 days (rock up to grade V), and made a terrace atop of it at 6100m camp atop of it for a future camp. Then back to BC. 1 pitch they didn't equip in fixed rope (upper 1/3 => 150m equipped) would slow them on 3rd session descent as they had to install an abseil instead of autonomously downclimbing using ropes. 2nd session: 30/09: back to ABC. 01/10: back to 5900 "col", took the tent to go to 6100m camp and slept there. Perfect bivouac horizontal place, inserted within geological layers. 02/10: pushed further through: - a first step through a 50m 70° icy pitch with some vertical portions. - a second step with first a difficult traverse with rock grade IV, then 30m of 80° ice gully, then 25m up to rock grade V. (Here during 3rd session descent they would remove 70m of fixed rope and leave 80m). That day slept at 6600m just atop of the second step. 03/10: left bivouac place light, climbed 3rd step through a difficult ice traverse (60/65°) then 2 rock pitches up to rock grade V. Reached 6900m place that day, which they terraced for future camp here. Descended same day, took back 6600m place bivouac gear to sleep at 6100m. 04/10: left very early to avoid rock falls and reached BC. 3rd session: 07/10: back to ABC 08/10: to 6100m camp place 09/10: to 6900m camp place 10/10: traverse on the western side of the SW Pillar (on the west face of the SW Pillar) through a shelf in easy rock grade III, stopped at 7100m by snowfall. Within 10 min, spindrifts avalanches more and more coming, so had to retreat straight. In 4 lateral delicate abseils under spindrifts, could reach at 6 pm a precarious, but sheltered at best bivouac place just afoot of a 30m vertical rock wall. From 3 pm to 11 pm, almost 30 cms of fresh snow fell. 11/10: at 6 am, after an anxious night fearing to stay blocked there, started to traverse back to 6900m camp. Delicate because didn't fix enough rope on that section on the way up (60m). Duo needed 5 hours to come back to their 6900m camp place, whereas they needed 3 hours on the way up! 12/10: back on known ground, they descended to 6100m camp, then stopped before usual afternoons dangerous objective conditions begun. 13/10: back to BC. Would wait there for 4-5 days for good conditions opportunity to appear and try the normal route. Yannick having a flight ticket back to France expected for the 20/10 and weather forecast expecting 15 days of uncertain weather conditions, the duo decided to abandon on the 17/10. From the 10/10, it had snowed every day, even with 30cms snow on the 15/10 at the IBC. Return from Italian BC to Kathmandu in less than 48 hours. In 12 hours, hiked from Italian BC (3660m) to Doban (2520m, usually 4 hours below Italian BC) and Bojan (2080m) to Darbang. Day after very tired! About the route Route with sustained difficulties comparable to Eiger North Face Heckmair route, but here between 5300 and 7100m. According to Graziani, more continuous route than on Annapurna I South Face (even difficulties not exceeding rock grade V and ice 80°), but with less commitment (ridge here and not face). Many sections climbed unroped to go faster, like in the attack couloir. Ridge configuration interesting for itinerary research, here again comparable with Eiger Nordwand: they did a lot of traverses to avoid difficulties whereas it seems former expeditions often kept a straight way (have seen pitons in very steep sections which they could avoid). A great advantage of this route is that there are many places to make great safe bivouacs and wind sheltered ones on the eastern side of the ridge. However the views aren't to be the most stunning one, being "blocked" towards the east by the South Ridge, with no close high mountains west and other Dhaulagiri's lying more northwest. However, visual height impression very nice all way long, even more from the upper shelf ! Sun not before 9 am, being sheltered by the S Pillar. Then dangerous during the afternoon for the lowest section until 5900m (would always avoid to go through that section during afternoon). Rotten sedimentary rock all the way long. This year itinerary in dry conditions. Difficult to check route conditions from Italian Base Camp. One day during first session, conditions were so dry they just leave their crampons at camp! Stopped at 7100m afoot of an ice gully, a priori like 150m high including a 80/90° pitch. Could see afterwards from trek trail afoot of the West Face the following section, which would apparently have add something like a 100m more (2 pitches approx.) climb. From 7400m, seems end of the difficulties but still long way to go to the top. Their itinerary clever way to avoid final SW Pillar 500m section which is extremely hard. Pay homage to 1988 Czechs trio who made it alpine style up to the top!
Accidents -
Achievement 1st alpine-style attempt since successful 1988 Czechs
Agency Glacier Safari Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463191
Year 2015
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw pillar (to 7100m)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yannick Marcel Graziani M 1973 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Patrick Wagnon M 1969 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Glacial researcher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA115301 AAJ Popier, Rodolphe - - 90:333 (2016) -
DHA115301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213856/Dhaulagiri-I-Southwest-Pillar-Attempt - - -