Dhaulagiri I | 2014 NE Ridge

A Slovakia expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2014 via NE Ridge, led by Jan Matlak. Summit reached on 9th October 2014. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8633
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA114301
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2014
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovakia
Leaders Jan Matlak
Sponsor Slovak Mountaineering Expedition Dhaulagiri 2014
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czech Republic
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2014-09-18
Summit Date 2014-10-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 21
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2014-10-16
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to fatal avalanche at BC
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 2
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 3
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/09,4750m),C1(03/10,5850m),C2(09/10,6600m),xxx
Route Notes (By Raheel Adnan/Update added at the end of story at 9 AM). The severe weather stimulated by cyclone Hudhud recedes in Nepal, leaving a catastrophe of great magnitude behind. Blizzard and avalanches killed several trekkers, climbers and natives in Western Region, whereas dozens are still missing. Rescue operation continues for retrieval of bodies and search and evacuation of missing persons. An enormous avalanche hit Dhaulagiri BC on Tuesday, where the Slovak climbers were waiting for improvement in weather to resume the climb. They had already established C1 and C2 on the mountain. It's reported that two Slovaks and three Nepalese have gone missing after the avalanche. Other stranded members of the expedition (7 Slovaks and 1 Czech) have been evacuated to Pokhara. Exact details of the accident are still vague. Slovakian's website expedition.sk wrote on Wednesday night: "We have new information directly from Sonam Sherpa, from the agency that provided services to our expedition in Nepal. Sonam unfortunately confirmed that Jan Matlak and Vladimir Svancar along with three Nepalese helpers remain missing after the avalanche. Other members of the expedition were flown to Pokhara by helicopter. Three local Sherpa unsuccessfully searched for them today (Wednesday). Tomorrow (Thursday), two members of expedition will also join them." Missing Nepalese have been identified as Bhoj Kumar Rai of Mauling VDC-5, Okhaldhunga; Dorje Sherpa of Jubing VDC-2, and Gopal Rai of Gudin VDC-8, Solukhumbu district. Last dispatch from Slovakians read, "Snowing, snowing, still snowing .... still waiting in BC for better weather :( We all believe that the weather will improve." Jan Matlak is a climbing and ski-mountaineering instructor. He led several expeditions to Tatra, Alps, Caucasus and Pamir. In Himalayas, he has attempted Shishapangma and Annapurna. Vladimir Svancar is also a seasoned mountaineering professional with multiple winter and summer ascents in Tatra, Alps and Pamir. The hope of finding either of five missing persons (Jan Matlak, Vladimir Svancar, Bhoj Kumar Rai, Dorje Sherpa and Gopal Rai) alive didn't materialize. Expedition.sk reports that the bodies of Slovak climbers and the BC staff were found at Dhaulagiri BC, today. It appears that only Jan Matlak and Vladimir Svancar were inside their tent when avalanche came down. Other members of the expedition were in "social" tent which avalanche probably didn't hit with full force.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Adventure Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462824
Year 2014
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jan Matlak M 1954 Slovakia Leader Liptovsky Mikulas, Slovakia Alpine rescue service Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Svancar M 1955 Slovakia Climber Trencin, Slovakia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Bhoj Kumar Rai M - Nepal BC Staff Mauling-5, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal BC Staff Jubing-2, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gopal Rai M - Nepal BC Staff Gudel-8, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Jiri Svihalek M 1989 Czech Republic Climber Ostopovice, Czech Republic Ski alpinist, trekking guide & worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Peter Kostelansky M 1966 Slovakia Climber Zilina, Czech Republic Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Andrej Harendarick M 1964 Slovakia Climber Zvolen, Slovakia Physician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Gembes M 1976 Slovakia Climber Terchova, Slovakia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Peto M 1985 Slovakia Climber Liptovsky Mikulas, Slovakia IT student Details Other expeditions
Rastislav Peto M 1987 Slovakia Climber Liptovsky Mikulas, Slovakia Rescue member Details Other expeditions
Jan Seminsky M 1961 Slovakia Climber Viglasska Huta-Kalinka, Slovakia Trade manager Details Other expeditions
Ladislav Vargic M 1963 Slovakia Climber Banska Bystrica, Slovakia Trade manager Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA114301 - - http://www.expedition.sk/rozhovory/item/401-jan-matlak-o-expedicii-dhaulagiri-2014 - - -
DHA114301 - - http://www.mountainski.eu/200/a-snow-avalanche-in-bc-at-dhaulagiri-8167-m-had-killed-jan-matlak-and-vladimir-svancar - - -
DHA114301 - - http://dhaulagiri2014.expedition.sk - - -