Dhaulagiri I | 2014 NE Ridge

A Peru expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2014 via NE Ridge, led by Victor Hugu Rimac Trejo. Summit reached on 18th May 2014. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8402
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA114104
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2014
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Peru
Leaders Victor Hugu Rimac Trejo
Sponsor Peru Dhaulagiri 2014
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach See route notes
Basecamp Date 2014-05-04
Summit Date 2014-05-18
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 14
Total Days 17
Termination Date 2014-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/05,4400m),C1(08/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6400m),C3(17/05,7400m),Smt(18/05)
Route Notes Approach: Bus to Pokhara, Jeep to Tatopani, helicopter to Italian BC (2-day wait for heli in bad weather). Before coming to Dhaulagiri, Victor initially planned to climb on Shishapangma, then Everest by the south side (he should have left for Shisha on 27 March). But the Tibetan Mountaineering Association didn't afford him a permit for Shishapangma, so he went first to acclimatize in Langtang Valley, then went back to Kathmandu and started this time for Everest Base Camp. There after the cancellation of the season, Luo Jing proposed him to join with him on Dhaulagiri. Jing went directly by flight from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu, whereas he with Alex Gavan joined in Lukla in 2 days, then flew back to Kathmandu. Victor left Kathmandu on the 1 May for Pokhara, then went to Tatopani by jeep, waited there for 2 days for better weather, then flew by helicopter to Italian BC via Modi Khola, then did go back from Italian BC to BC to help carry the loads. From 4 to 8 May, Victor had to wait at BC for Dawa and 2 British Army Nepalese climbers to acclimatize. However from 8 May he decided to begin his acclimatization alone, as he aimed to climb without oxygen. Then slept at C1 and C2 alone, then on the 10 May he worked together with 2 Sherpas (Lakpa Sherpa and [Chhitjee] Nurbu Sherpa) up to 7100m where they made a deposit (oxygen for the Sherpas, own tents for Victor) and went back to C2 for sleeping with Alex Gavan. On 11 May all went back to BC. On 15 May went from BC to new C2 (6000m) a bit higher: as the weather window was fixed on 17 or 18, they had to do so. Day after they reached new C2 at 7000m. Day after slept in C3 (7400m). On 17 May night, strong wind forced part of the team (2 Chinese of Luo Jing plus Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Nurbu Sherpa and Lakpa Sherpa) to sleep lower in real C3 (7300m). During the same night, Chhang Dawa's group left earlier and awoke them at midnight, as the wind had decreased. Victor reached the summit 1 hour after the Chinese at 1:30 pm and slept with them at his C3 which he reached at 4 pm. The day after, Victor left at 5 am, took off all equipment at C2 and reached BC at 4 pm. On 21 May, left BC by helicopter flight for Tatopani, then to Pokhara. Here stayed for the night and reached Kathmandu the next day. Victor insisted on the fact that he didn't climb Dhaulagiri solo! He relied on his own above BC to carry his own food, tents, personal gear, equipment, etc., but he couldn't have climbed the route alone at all without the tracks made previously by the American, Chilean, Korean teams, then by the Sherpas of Seven Summit Treks. He could be helped as well in case of a problem by the Seven Summit Treks team.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Peruvian ascent of Dhaulagiri
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462680
Year 2014
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Victor Hugo Rimac Trejo M 1986 Peru Leader Huaraz, Peru Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.