Dhaulagiri I | 2013 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2013 via NE Ridge, led by Manuel Gonzalez. Summit reached on 23rd May 2013. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8050
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA113105
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Manuel Gonzalez
Sponsor Bochi Bochi Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition 2013
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Darbang->Italian BC->BC
Basecamp Date 2013-04-25
Summit Date 2013-05-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2013-05-26
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to Garra's fall
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,4670m),ABC(27/04,5900m),C1(29/04,6550m),C2(21/05,7250m),xxx(23/05,8000m)
Route Notes BC 25 Apr 4670m C1 27 Apr 5900m C2 29 Apr 6550m C3 21 May 7250m HPt 23 May 8000m by Garra, Gonzalez, Keshab Gurung. High-point team intended to summit from C3 and were on their summit push. They departed at 11 pm on 22 May. Weather was perfect. They fixed some rope at 7500m for the traverse. At about 2 pm Gonzalez rang Osiel Cardenas at base camp to find out where the right route would go up to the top. When he made the call, Gonzalez was just a little bit below Garra and Keshab. When he realized that they were not on the right route, he shouted to Garra and Keshab to tell them that they should stop and come back. At this moment, he saw both men fall (they were on a rope together) tumbling down for about 100m. They stopped just outside the tracks. Gonzalez climbed towards them and they noticed that Garra must have broken his leg as he could not move it and he was in a lot of pain. Gonzalez and Keshab tried to pull Garra down with a rope, but it was not very effective. They managed about 100m. At 6 pm, Keshab and Gonzalez decided to go down to C3 to get a sleeping bag, cooker and oxygen; however, after about two hours Keshab decided to go back up to be with Garra. Gonzalez reached C3 at 1 am on 24 May. The next morning he descended to C1, where he stayed the night. On his way down he saw Ms. Kono the Japanese lady, crouched on a rock feeling very tired. She was at about 7500m and Gonzalez could not see a Sherpa anywhere. As Kono was very unwell Gonzalez rang BC to get help, but they told him to go down as they could not do anything for her. He carried on to C1 and on 26 May he descended to BC. He was too tired to go back up to rescue Garra and he thought it would be better to help organize the rescue. In the meantime Keshab had dragged Garra down to about 7600m, but exhausted himself completely. They were up there without sleeping bags, tents, cookers or anything that could keep them warm and hydrated. On 24 May three Sherpas of Seven Summit Treks arrived by helicopter and were dropped 6100m. They reached C2 and stayed the night. On 25 May they ascended to C3 and crossed Gonzalez on his way to BC. The three Sherpas were very slow and did not seem to be very experienced. On 26 May they were on their way up to Garra. That day, Keshab decided to go down as he was very tired and dehydrated. On his descent he crossed the three rescue Sherpas and one went down with him and the other two went up to Garra. They still found Garra alive, but not well: however, they thought they could not do much for him. On 26 May Fishtail dropped Jorge Egocheaga and a Sherpa at C3. Alex Txikon and Ferran La Torre were dropped at 6200m. The three had just climbed Lhotse and were picked up at EBC by Simone Moro. At 9 pm Egocheaga and the Sherpa reached Garra, who was on his own as the other two Sherpas had left by then. Garra was still alive when they arrived, but died at 9:45 pm. Egocheaga and the Sherpa descended to C3, where they found Keshab barely alive. Txikon and La Torre had also arrived at C3 at that time. On 27 May Keshab was picked up from C3 by long-line. The 3 Sherpas and the 3 Spanish were picked up from C3. Gonzalez was picked up from BC on 26 May and flew to Pokhara. Keshab was immediately taken to hospital in Kathmandu and was expected to leave on 30 May. Garra will stay in the mountains. Osiel Cardenas reached 6900m on 21 May. He was sick with fever and a cold and did not continue. Oxygen: Not taken, not used Sherpas: Keshab Gurung, Laprak-4, Gorkha, 31/3/79 Mingma Gyabu - 8 Oct 2017 On 24 May Mingma Gyabu he received a phone call from Seven Summit Treks who told him that they needed a rescue team for Dhaulagiri I. He then formed a team with Ferran Latorre, Alex Txikon and Jorge Egocheaga to go to Dhaulagiri for the rescue. On 26 May Mingma Gyabu and the three Spaniards flew by helicopter to Kathmandu and from there to Dhaulagiri BC, where they arrived at about 11 am. Other Sherpas rescued an Indian climber between C1 and C2. Mingma Gyabu and three Spaniard were taken from BC to the col at about 6500m. Egocheaga thought that Mingma Gyabu was the lightest to be taken up to 7400m near C3 by longline. Egocheaga was also taken to 7400m. Mingma Gyabu and Egocheaga climbed to 7900m where Garra was. Mingma Gyabu reached him at about 8:30 pm. On his way up he met Keshab, who was also in a bad state, with three Sherpas, who were bringing Keshab down. When Mingma Gyabu reached Garra at about 8:30 pm he was already dead. He descended to Keshab and the other Sherpas. They got Keshab down to C3 (he could walk but only with a lot of assistance), where they arrived at about midnight. Egocheaga was already in C3 and Latorre and Txikon were coming up from C2. Everyone stayed at C3 that night. Kehab was very weak during the night. Around 1 am they informed BC about the stituation. On 27 May around 9 am, Mingma Gyabu and Keshab left C3. They had called a helicopter to pick Keshab up by longline. Mingma Gyabu was on his own with Keshab, everyone else had left earlier. At around 10:30 am, the helicopter came and Mingma Gyabu put Keshab on the longline at about 7200m. Mingma Gyabu continued to C2, where the three Spaniards and the three Sherpas were. They were all picked up by the helicopter and flown to BC. They were then taken by helicopter to Pokhara and then Kathmandu.
Accidents Fatal fall by Garra Lorenzo
Achievement -
Agency Bochi Bochi Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462319
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Jose (Juanjo) Garra Lorenzo M 1963 Spain Climber Lleida City, Lleida, Spain Social worker Details Other expeditions
Manuel (Lolo) Gonzalez Diaz M 1965 Spain Leader San Pedro Alcantara, Malaga, Spain Rope access manager Details Other expeditions
Enrique Osiel Cardenas M 1979 Spain Climber Puerto Real, Cadiz, Spain Rope access operator Details Other expeditions
Keshab Gurung M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Laprak-4, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.