Dhaulagiri I | 2012 NE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2012 via NE Ridge, led by Alberto Magliano. Summit reached on 17th May 2012. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7531
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA112110
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Alberto Magliano
Sponsor Italian Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2012-04-04
Summit Date 2012-05-17
Summit Time 1730
Summit Days 43
Total Days 46
Termination Date 2012-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 900
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,4700m),C1(08/04,5500m),C2(12/04),C3(16/05,7100m),Smt(17/05)
Route Notes BC 04 Apr 4700m C1 08 Apr 5500m C2 12 Apr 6600m C3 16 May 7100m Smt 17 May by Panzeri and Corona at 5:30 pm. On the first summit attempt on 10 May, they reached C3 at 7100m, but the weather was too bad and they turned around after having set up C3. On 17 May they left C3 at 12:30 am. Good weather, but deep snow. At 4 am they stopped at the traverse at 7300m as the wind was too strong, so they stopped and waited for the wind to abate. After one hour the wind stopped and they continued (other climbers, who were with them did not wait and went down). They got to the middle summit and ascended another 50m and reached the summit at 5:30 pm (they saw the German woman in the yellow bag??). They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3. However, it was getting late and at midnight they made a bivouac at about 7300m - about 2-1/2 hours before C3. It was snowing and foggy. At 4 am Mahdi from Iran stopped on his way up and they had a cup of tea. Team descended to BC at noon. Corona has frostbite on both feet and two fingers on right hand. The team was climbing with Dawa Sherpa (brother of Seven Summit's Mingma) Oxygen: not taken, not used.
Accidents Frostbite on both feet
Achievement -
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461947
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simone Botta M 1975 Italy Climber Varallo Sesia, Vercelli, Italy Stone mason Details Other expeditions
Giampaolo Corona M 1973 Italy Climber Mezzano, Trento, Italy Alpine guide & mountain rescuer Details Other expeditions
Tarcisio Giordani M 1952 Italy Climber Sondrio, Sondrio, Italy Miner Details Other expeditions
Floriano Lenatti M 1960 Italy Climber Chiesa Valmalenco, Sondrio, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alberto Magliano M 1945 Italy Leader Milano, Italy Tourism company executive Details Other expeditions
Mario Luciano Panzeri M 1964 Italy Climber Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sergio Valentini M 1957 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Executive of mountain guides business Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.