Dhaulagiri I | 2011 NE Ridge

A Italy expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2011 via NE Ridge, led by Mario Merelli. Summit reached on 15th May 2011. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7350
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA111106
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2011
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Mario Merelli
Sponsor Italian Expedition to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach Beni->Babichaur->Dharapani->Mudi->Boghara->Darbang->Pine Forest
Basecamp Date 2011-04-14
Summit Date 2011-05-15
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 31
Total Days 33
Termination Date 2011-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,4600m),ABC(24/04,5635m),C1(12/05),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(13/05,7200m),Smt(15/05)
Route Notes Merelli and Zaffaroni started from C3 at 4 am. Merelli climbed the couloir and turned left. The weather was very bad, it was total white-out. Merelli walked toward summit for about 20 minutes and reached the summit. He did not check the time, but estimated time was around 1:30 pm. He said that when returning to C3 he met Zaffaroni at about 8250m around 2 pm. Both got to C3 between 4-4:40 pm. They spent the night there. Next day 16 May both of them descended to BC. Vivian Callahan - 8 June 2017 Hi Billie, I'm writing you for two reasons. First one is that when I was to Himalaya Dhaulagiri expedition in 2011 we are close to Italian team, Mario Merelli and Marco [Zaffaroni]. We are on pretty similar schedule so we try summit attempt the same day and similar time. Probably they started a little bit later than us. But in some point when the fixed rope was over, we continued at the same time; because they don't carry any rope with them, so they used our rope too. The weather started getting bad and cloudy with not too much visibility and the GPS getting crazy gave us the altitude of the last camp even we know that we are approx 8000 meters because the Sherpa of Korean expedition was on the mountain before. In this moment we decided to comeback and Mario continued alone for no more longer that 10 min and came back because he didn't have rope so used our rope again for to go down. Finnaly when we arrived in Kathmandu I knew that he said that was summit in Dhaulagiri. That was not true and impossible for my perspective to get the top from this point where we were, even if he ran it is completely impossible to cover the distance of 168m left in 10 min at this altitude. So I write right now because at the beginning I don't speak English really well and I feel bad to betray them. Now I'm older and I don't feel bad tell you which was the truth.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Prestige Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461578
Year 2011
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gian Mario Merelli M 1962 Italy Leader Lizzola, Bergamo, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Marco Enrico Zaffaroni M 1962 Italy Climber Cesate, Milano, Italy Factory manager Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA111106 - - http://www.mariomerelli.com - - -