Dhaulagiri I | 2010 NE Ridge

A France expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2010 via NE Ridge, led by Francois Marsigny. Summit reached on 27th April 2010. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6774
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA110103
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Francois Marsigny
Sponsor Marsigny Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via French Pass
Basecamp Date 2010-04-25
Summit Date 2010-04-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 2
Total Days 4
Termination Date 2010-04-29
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5800m due to bad weather and danger of serac fall
High Point (m) 5800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,4700m),C1(27/04,5800m),xxx(27/04,5800m)
Route Notes Francois Marsigny in his email wrote that they went up to C1 on 27 April and slept. Next day to BC. The team gave up climbing Dhaulagiri due to bad weather and danger of serac fall between BC and C1. We arrived in BC 25 April from the French Pass. Its altitude is 4650m. The 27 April we went to C1 in 6 hours 15 minutes from BC. Altitude C1 around 5800m near to the pass. The 28 April we went down to BC and we left it on the 29 April. Maybe the shortest expedition of the history of Dhaulagiri. There was some fix rope below the Eigar to climb up an to traverse (around 1000m) and we used them. There was some few spots of fix ropes on the glacier, but we didn't use them. We decided to stop this expedition simply because it was too dangerous due to the serac falls between BC and C1. And because we were not enough acclimatized which obliged us to do it again and again (the weather was not good enough to stay in altitude to finish the acclimatization in one time). The day we climbed to C1 we saw avalanche and serac, fortunately not too big, and Gyelze Sherpa (our friend Sherpa) dropped his backpack and ran in the opposite direction to be safe. In case it would be bigger and few people Swiss and Sherpa would be seriously injured. Because I am mountain guide and instructor at the ENSA (National School of Ski and Alpinism in France), I couldn't accept that kind of risk for relative, my wife Martine, and friend, Gyelze Sherpa. Sherpa: Gyalze Sherpa, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, Everest 22/5/08
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking (Tseringma Treks pmt)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461194
Year 2010
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois Jacques Jean Marsigny M 1959 France Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Martine Fernande Girod Marsigny F 1966 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Trekking guide Details Other expeditions
Gyalze (Gelje) Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Ragani-8, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.