Dhaulagiri I | 2009 NE Ridge

A Czech Republic expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2009 via NE Ridge, led by David Fojtik. Summit reached on 1st May 2009. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6364
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA109108
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2009
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders David Fojtik
Sponsor Ski 8167 (on Mountain Tribes permit)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 142
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach See route details
Basecamp Date 2009-04-12
Summit Date 2009-05-01
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 2009-05-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,4700m),C1(14/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6700m),C3(30/04,7200m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Approach: Besisahar->Annapurna trek->Marpha->Ghasa->Beni->Darban->Besi Khola->Italian BC. Fojtik left C3 at 11:30 pm on 30 April for his summit push. He was followed by the Iranian climber Etemadfar. Ahead of Fojtik and Etemadfar were Koreans opening the route and fixing the line. They were very slow and Fojtik said that it was very cold. Instead of waiting in the cold, both Fojtik and Etemadfar went back to C3. Fojtik and Etemadfar started again at 2 am of 1 May. They were followed by Findik and his Sherpa Dawa. The Koreans ran out of ropes at about 7900m around lunch time and they stop moving. Having reached that point Fojtik, Etemadfar and Findik decided to continue their climb and started cutting steps together. For a while one of the Korean members also joined them and he returned to his team who were very slow to follow the advancing climbers. Weather started getting bad, strong wind and snow fall around 2:30 pm. It became complete white-out and dark. Dawa stopped at around 8000m. Fojtik was the first one to reach to the top in bad weather. He does not remember the summit time, but estimates that it may be between 3:30-4 pm or even little later. Findik was about 50m behind him. Fojtik got electric shocks in the bad weather while on summit. There were clouds all over. He said it was painful when electricity passed through his back shoulder, back of hip to legs and his hair became straight upward. This occured to him two/three times. It was very cold, tired and intense pain due to electricity. He realized the dangers of staying there as he was carrying his skis in his rucksack. If lightning occurs it may hit his metal skis and he quickly started descending. He saw Findik taking picture of the dead body few meters away from the end of the couloir. Fojtik started skiing down from about 20m below of the beginning of the summit couloir. The weather was still cloudy and dark. Skiing in poor visibility, Fojtik passed Etemadfar near rocky place about (8050m) before the beginning of the summit couloir. He stopped skiing about 30m above C3 as there was fresh snow on top of blue ice. He reached C2 at 9 pm slept there. Next day Fojtik realized that Etemadfar was missing. He started recalling what he had seen the previous day that he saw Etemadfar falling from the place where he passed him. At that moment he was not thinking of his fall due to confusion in poor visibility and tiredness. Next day Fojtik skied down all the way down from C2 to BC. Fojtik returned to Kathmandu from BC by helicopter on 4 May due to frostbite of all his toes of his right foot. He will leave Kathmandu on 7 May. Another member of Fojtik's team, Ms. Pilchova, on 30 April while climbing to reach C3 from C2, saw members of Polish team coming down and they told her that it is dangerous to go up. So she went back to C2 from about 7100m and slept there. Next day went down to BC. She returned to Kathmandu on 7 May and will leave on 15 May.
Accidents Fojtik got frostbite of all toes of right foot
Achievement -
Agency Monterosa Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460787
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Fojtik M 1973 Czech Republic Leader Prague, Czech Republic Manager of consulting business in skills training & development Details Other expeditions
Pavla Pilchova F 1975 Czech Republic Climber Chlunec, Czech Republic Pharmaceutical company representative Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.