Dhaulagiri I | 2009 NE Ridge

A India expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2009 via NE Ridge, led by Col. Mahavir Chauhan. Summit reached on 8th May 2009. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6359
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA109103
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2009
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality India
Leaders Col. Mahavir Chauhan
Sponsor Indian Army Mountain Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 145
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach (see route notes)
Basecamp Date 2009-04-07
Summit Date 2009-05-08
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 31
Total Days 38
Termination Date 2009-05-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 3700
Total Members 17
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,4700m),C1(17/04,5800m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(27/04,7200m),Smt(08/05)
Route Notes C1 at NE Col C2 on NE Ridge C3 on NE Ridge just below the rocks Indian Army Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009, Mahavir Chauhan - 22 May 2009 The expedition left Kathmandu by road to Beni, then trekked up the Kali Gandaki River valley to Jomsom and on north to Muktinath to acclimatize and do puja at its famous Hindu temple. From there they trekked back down the Kali Gandaki Valley to Marpha, then west across Dhampus and French Passes to the normal BC site, where they arrived on 7 April. Their first summit attempt was launched from BC on 30 April by Angchok, Bhatt, Patil, Thapa, Sunil and four Sherpas, Dawa Chiri, Nima Grimen, Pemba Rinji, Pasang Sherpa. They climbed to C1 on the 30th, went to C2 on 1 May and reached C3 on the 2nd. But on the 3rd very bad weather forced their retreat to BC. There was snowfall and avalanche danger, even white-out and strong winds. Their second attempt succeeded. Aukta, Bisht, Bodh, Rangdol, Rinzin Dorje, Targais and the same four Sherpas from the first attempt left BC on 6 May, climbed directly to C2 and were in C3 on the 7th. They left C3 a 8:00 pm on the 7th, climbed through the night and arrived on the summit at 11:30 am of the 8th of May, having had to fix rope as they climbed. (Both now became the only Indian to summit six 8000ers.) In their descent from the top, a thunderstorm caused the rock to become charged with electricity, forcing them to wait for two hours at 7800m at the west end of the traverse. They returned to C3 at 6:00 pm on the 8th and were back safely in BC on the 9th. There was now no hope of mounting another summit bid soon because there was continous snowfall on 10 to 13 May. All camps were cleared from the mountain on the 14th, and the expedition left BC on the 15th. They had fixed a total of 3700m of rope on the route; no other climbers had fixed any. To be safe, below C3 they installed 3000m because of the multitude of hidden crevasses, and above C3 in their summit, they added 600m on the blue ice just above the camp on the traverse and 100m more in the final small couloir of rock and blue ice above the traverse. Health problems: all of Pasang Sherpa's toes became frostbitten during the two-hour stop in the descent from the summit. They probably will not lose any tips. Pemba Rinji and Nima Grimen also got slightly frostbitten. Bisht became snowblind while he came down from the top, and suffered for one day. He had taken off his goggles to see better where to place his feet. Sherpas: Dawa Chhiri/Tsiri, 20/2/67, Lokhim-9, Solu, Everest X3, Makalu X3, Cho Oyu X3, Manaslu X2 Nima/Ngima Grimen, 31/3/82, Gudel-5, Solu, Everest X2 Pasang Sherpa, 23/4/82, Gudel-9, Ramechap, Lhotse 25/5/08 Pemba Rinji, 10/1/76 (26/9/2032), Bishinga-7, Okhaldhunga, Everest X1, Dhaulagiri I X2 Pemba Gulme, no 8000ers
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Gateway to the Himalaya
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460794
Year 2009
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tsering Angchok M 1971 India Climber Stok, Leh, J&K, India Naik subedar in 2 Ladakh Scouts Details Other expeditions
Amit Aukta M 1982 India Climber Solan, HP, India Major in 3 Ladakh Scouts Details Other expeditions
Prakash Bhatt M 1976 India Climber Bhagatwari, Uttarkashi, Uttarakhand, India Havildar in Garhwal Rifles Details Other expeditions
Prabhu Dayal Bisht M 1968 India Climber Pauri Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India Naik Subedar in 2 Garhwal Rifles Details Other expeditions
Chering Norbu Bodh M 1969 India Climber Chobrang, Lahoul-Spiti, HP, India Subedar in army mountaineering institute (Dogra Scouts) Details Other expeditions
Mahavir Singh Chauhan M 1969 India Leader Banyani, Tehri Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India Lieutenant colonel in Dogra Details Other expeditions
Murup Dorje M 1978 India Climber Walna, Leh, J&K, India Havildar in 2 Ladakh Scouts Details Other expeditions
Inam Danish Khan M 1982 India Exp Doctor Kund Mohaila, Daltonganj, Jharkhand, India Captain in army medical troops Details Other expeditions
A. Venkatesh Naidu M 1976 India Climber Uppili Palli, Chhitoor, Andhra Pradesh, India Defence service Details Other expeditions
Sachin Raosaheb Patil M 1980 India Climber Kudnur, Sangli, Maharashtra, India Havildar in 5 Maratha Light Infantry Details Other expeditions
Kesang Rangdol M 1978 India Climber Kibber, Lahoul-Spiti, HP, India Sepoy in Dogra Scouts Details Other expeditions
Rinzin Dorje M 1978 India Climber Chicham, Lahoul-Spiti, HP, India Naik in Dogra Scouts Details Other expeditions
Dharmjot Singh M 1978 India Climber Model, Panipat, Haryana, India Major in 7 Maratha Light Infantry Details Other expeditions
Jagmohan Singh M 1975 India Climber Pathali, Rudar Pariyag, Uttarakhand, India Naik in Garhwal Scouts Details Other expeditions
Sunil Kumar M 1981 India Climber Chamarda, Hamirpur, HP, India Sepoy in 24 Punjab Details Other expeditions
Sonam Targais M 1983 India Climber Thiksey Shangtat, Leh, Ladakh, J&K, India Rifleman in 3 Ladakh Scouts Details Other expeditions
Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri) Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Ramechap, Gudel-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ngima Grimen Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-5, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Rinzi/Rinji Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Bishinga-7, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Praveen Thapa M 1976 India Climber Nawab Wala, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India Naik in paratrooper unit Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA109103 IM Khan, Inam Danish First Indian Ascent of Dhaulagiri - 47:58-65 (2011) -