Dhaulagiri I | 2009 NE Ridge

A Poland expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2009 via NE Ridge, led by Anna Czerwinska. Summit reached on 30th April 2009. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6358
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA109102
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2009
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Anna Czerwinska
Sponsor Poles on Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Beni->Myagdi Khola west of mountain
Basecamp Date 2009-04-01
Summit Date 2009-04-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to lack of motivation amoung all members
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 100
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/04,4500m),C1(05/04,5700m),C2(15/04,6400m),xxx(7100m)
Route Notes C1 just below northeast Col C2 little and right of NE Ridge. Poles on Dhaulagiri I, led by Anna Czerwinska - 12 May 2009 Czerwinska returned to Kathmandu quite unhappy about this climb. She found that she and her members were not really a team: they went their separate ways, and during the latter period of her time on the mountain, she didn't know exactly where one member, Justyna Szepienice, was or whom she was climbing with or what she planned to do next since they had little communication with each other. All three of them were "shattered" by the fatal fall by their compatriot, Piotr Morawski, into a crevasse on 8 April, and unnerved by the deaths of others on the mountain. Czerwinska was also bothered by what she felt was an unpleasant lack of cooperation amongst the teams on Dhaulagiri I, including the "wall" erected between her party and another Polish team led by Ryszard Gajewski; only the two-man team of Morawski and Slovakian Peter Hamor collaborated with Czerwinska and teammates. Zbigniew Bak left the mountain on about 16 April. He had pitched C1 with the two women on 5 April, and on the 13th climbed with them on their way to establish C2. But he abandoned the climb at 5500m and descended to BC that day. He had no experience of climbing in the Himalaya and the seige tactics employed on these very high mountains. After Morawski's death he became very much afraid of hidden crevasses; he lost all motivation to continue the climb. Ms. Justyna Szepieniec, too, had no Himalayan experience and was the youngest member as a 28 year old. She was a very fast climber, much faster than the older and slower Czerwinska. She had seen Morawski fall to his death, and this greatly upset her. But she went with Czerwinska to pitch C2 on the 15th. They arrived there, at 6400m, expecting to find a tent left for them by Hamor, but it was gone, so they stayed in an empty tent of Gajewski's team. It was slightly to the left of the NE Ridge at a spot which not a very good one because of snow coming down on top of it from a serac, but it and they were not hurt. Szepieniec descended to BC on the 16th while Czerwinska stopped in C1 and returned to BC on the 17th. Now Szepieniec climbed independently of Czerwinska. She wanted to team up with faster climber such as Tunc Fundik from Turkey and the Iranian Mehdi Etemadfar. On 27 April she left Czerwinska and went to C1 with these two men and others, and next day to C2 while Czerwinska stayed in BC on the 27th and on the 28th moved to her own C1 and to the Turk's higher tent at C1. Czerwinska remained at C1 an extra day, then on the 30th climbed up towards C2 but got no higher than 6200m, and turned back to C1 when the weather deteriorated. She descended to BC on 1 May. Szepieniec reached 7100m on 30 April, Czerwinska believes. Back in Kathmandu, Czerwinska was not sure about Szepieniec's movements in these final days of April; she had kept detailed notes, but now they didn't make sense to her. Even her own daily movements weren't clear to her now. But she believes that on 2 May they were both in BC. Now news came that Mehdi Etemadfar had died (he had disappeared the previous day above 8000m while going alone for the summit). Szepieniec had climbed on the same rope as he and shared the same tent. She now had no desire to climb Dhaulagiri I any more. She left BC to go home on the 5th. Czerwinska had been hoping to go up with the Indian army expedition, but they moved as a tightly-knit team and she was unable to connect with them. She did not want to climb alone. She left on 6 May. Their high points: 5500m on 13 April by Bak 6400m on 15 April by Czerwinska 7100m on 30 April by Szepieniec
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Tribes Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460786
Year 2009
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zbigniew Bak M 1971 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Owns event-organizing business Details Other expeditions
Anna Barbara Czerwinska F 1949 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Justyna Szepieniec F 1980 Poland Climber Rymanow, Poland Hotel manager Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.