Dhaulagiri I | 2008 NE Ridge

A Argentina expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2008 via NE Ridge, led by Dario Bracali. Summit reached on 1st May 2008. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5973
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA108117
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Argentina
Leaders Dario Bracali
Sponsor Argentinean Dhaulagiri I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 139
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Beni->Durban->Dharapani->Mori->Bagar->Doban->Italian BC
Basecamp Date 2008-04-17
Summit Date 2008-05-01
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 14
Total Days 20
Termination Date 2008-05-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04,5637m),C1(21/04,5830m),C2(29/04,6769m),C3(30/04,7470m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Argentinean Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2008 Spring - Dario Bracali Bracali, Cura, Glass and Vitry reached C3 on 30 April planning to go to summit on 1 May. On arriving at C3 Cura realized that his last three fingers of right hand became senseless. During the night the frostbitten fingers of Cura started paining and it was unbearable besides it was very uncomfortable in the tent. They were sharing a two-man tent. On 1 May, Bracali and Vitry left C3 at 2 am for summit. Bracali turned around to C3 from about 7800m due to exhaustion. When Bracali reached C3 at about 11:30 am, Cura left C3 accompanied by Glass. Glass said that they had to descend very slowly due to bad weather and arrived at C2 about 4 pm. Cura's three fingers were already black and other fingers too started getting cold. Then Cura and Glass descended to C1 where they arrived around 8 pm, spent night there and next day to BC where the Polish doctor gave him antibiotics and injections. Cura left BC on 5 May with Spanish (Pasaban) team by helicopter to Kathmandu and left on 7 May. Vitry reached summit at about 3:30 pm. He stayed on summit about 15 minutes. On the summit there were Spanish woman (Marta), Polish woman (Kinga) Baranowska and once Catalan (Jesus). All four descended together to C3, Vitry reached C3 between 2-3 am of 2 May. Bracali was waiting for Vitry in the tent. The Catalan climber was nervously asking Vitry to help him while descending from the summit. While helping him on rope Vitry lost his right hand glove. The day was very windy and cold. On 3 May, Bracali left C3 at 2 am for summit. He did not return to camp and nobody has seen him. He was alone on the mountain and nobody has gone up on that day. Vitry waiting for Bracali at C3 and he got a message from Spanish expedition leader to leave the camp immediately as weather is going to be very bad. Then Vitry left C3 at about 4 pm. On the way down he had to bivouac between C3 and C2 (about 7100m) because he could not see the route. Lithuanian expedition leader Saulius Vilius (C1) told that on 5 May he got a call in the evening from Italian expedition leader and asked about two Argentinean climbers missing at C3. Vilius immediately informed his two climbers at C2 to look for the two missing Argentineans. After a while three Sherpas from Italian expedition arrived at C1 to rescue the missing climbers. But they refused to go up and started negotiating through radio for their reward money and that they would not go beyond C2. Vilius further said that they saw somebody coming down from C3 to C2 but the descending person was heading towards wrong direction. Then, Vilius immediatedly asked his two members in C2 to go up and to help the person who was descending. The two Lithuanian climbers, Ernestas Marksaitis and Egidijus Mockus, after two hours of climbing above C2 finally been able to bring the badly exhausted and frostbitten Argentinean climber Vitry back to right trail and to C2 where the Italian expedition Sherpas were waiting for him. On 6 May with the help of two Sherpas Vitry arrived BC. At the BC the Polish Doctor gave him injection and medication. Almost all the fingertips except thumbs of Vitry were frostbitten and also his forehead skin was frostbitten. The team, Glass, and Vitry left BC on 7 May by helicopter to Italian BC. On 8 May they were taken to Pokhara by the returning helicopter on which two member of HRA search team of Bracali arrived in Swiss BC. Glass and Vitry returned Kathmandu on the same day from Pokhara. They were trying to leave on 11 May. According to Padam Ghale, leader of Dario Bracali search team comprising four members, was sent by HRA on request of Global Rescue, USA through Ace the Himalaya, Kathmandu. The search operation was financed by the insurance company of Bracali. The search taem found lots of foodstuff, some climbing equipments, and clothing and cash Rs 10,500 in C1 on 11 May. Search team leader Ghale made arrangement with Nima Tshiring Sherpa of World Record Trekking, who was in C3, to look for the Argentinean tent and to bring down the things inside it. Nima Tshiring brought down to BC some climbing gears, clothes and walkie-talkie set on 13 May. The search team returned Kathmandu on 14 May. It is not possible to find the missing Argentinean alive due to dangerous mountain ridge, high altitude and strong wind. The search team (as listed on the Monterosa web site) consisted of 4 Spaniards: Ruben Jimenez Gomez Fernando G. Castillo Carlos S. Pascual Juan A. L. Lecumberri
Accidents -
Achievement 3rd Argentinean to summit Dhaulagiri
Agency Chomolungma Pilgrimage
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460421
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Dario Alejandro Bracali M 1972 Argentina Leader Buenos Aires, Argentina Tour operator Details Other expeditions
Sebastian Cura M 1970 Argentina Climber Buenos Aires, Argentina Internet company executive Details Other expeditions
Guillermo Glass M 1972 Argentina Climber Esquel, Chubut, Argentina Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Christian Frederico Vitry Di Bello M 1965 Argentina Climber Salta City, Argentina Archaelogist Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA108117 - Vitry, Christian Dhaulagiri Palloni Ediciones, Rio Cuarto, Cordoba, Argentina - -