Dhaulagiri I | 2008 NE Ridge

A Czech Republic expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2008 via NE Ridge, led by Zdenek Hruby. Summit reached on 1st May 2008. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5964
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA108108
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Zdenek Hruby
Sponsor Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Czech Expedition 2008
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 137
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-04-09
Summit Date 2008-05-01
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 22
Total Days 26
Termination Date 2008-05-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Makalu (MAKA-081-07)
Campsites BC(09/04,4620m),C1(11/04,5850m),C2(18/04,6650m),C3A(21/04,7050m),C3B(30/04,7300m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes Dhaulagiri & Annapurna Czech Expedition, led by Zdenek Hruby - 9 May 2008 The team intended to go first to Dhaulagiri I and then to Annapurna I. On Dhaulagiri they planned to acclimatize on the normal NE Ridge route and set up camps there for their descent, then go to the East Face and summit via the face in alpine style. On 12 April, after having pitched C1 at 5850m on the NE Col the day before, they went up to 6300m to have a good look at the face. They saw that it was in bad condition: there were many big seracs, and the face was covered with a lot of snow instead of the ice which they had expected. They went down to BC that day, the 12th. On the 17th they climbed again to C1 and on the 18th made C2 at 6650m on the NE Ridge. Three days later, on the 21st, they occupied C3 on the ridge at 7050m, a low altitude for the camp because there was heavy snowfall now. They spent a "difficult" night there because of strong (100 km/hr) wind and the necessity to go out and clear snow off their tent several times during the night. On the 22nd they again looked at the East Face and saw that it was too full of snow; it would be impossible for them to climb it in one continuous ascent in alpine style through its chest-deep snow. They returned to BC. They decided on the 24th that they would continue their ascent to the summit by the NE Ridge. On the 28th they went up to C1, on the 29th to C2, on the 30th they moved their C3 up to 7300m, and on 1 May they went to the summit. They left C3 on 1 May at 3:30 am, followed the same line as all other summiters that day along the traverse on the North Face, up the couloir and left to the summit. Jaros was on the top at 2:00 pm and Hruby at 2:40 pm. Jaros was back in C3 at 6:00 pm and Hruby at 6:30 pm. On 2 May they left C3 at 9:00 am. While descending at 4:00 pm they met two members of David Ferrer's Spanish team, Rafael Guillen and Jesus Morales, who "were out of power" and needed help. Jaros went on down rapidly to fetch help while Hruby stayed with them. Guillen, "extremely weak," fell [to his death] at 6800m. Jaros and Hruby reached BC at 10:00 pm. The team fixed no ropes -- most were fixed by Spanish teams. They had no serious health problems. Hruby got one slightly frostbitten toe, and Jaros fell 50m when he was at 7900m because he briefly lost concentration and a crampon tangled with his down trousers, but he was unhurt and continued climbing. The team left BC on 5 May with other Dhaulagiri teams in a helicopter to Pokhara. The Czechs stayed in Pokhara waiting for their baggage to join them and to receive word from their trekking agent in Kathmandu about their being included on some other agent's permit for Annapurna I, which they wanted to go to directly. But their telephone connections with Kathmandu was not good, and on 8 May they came to Kathmandu in person to find out what the situation was. They learned that they would have to pay for their own permit, and in the end they decided to leave on 14 May by helicopter to Makalu instead.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460421
Year 2008
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zdenek Hruby M 1956 Czech Republic Leader Prague, Czech Republic University teacher Details Other expeditions
Radek Jaros M 1964 Czech Republic Climber Nove Mesto na Morave, Czech Republic Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.