Dhaulagiri I | 2007 NE Ridge

A Mexico expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2007 via NE Ridge, led by Eva Martinez Sandoval. Summit reached on 5th May 2007. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5624
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA107110
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Mexico
Leaders Eva Martinez Sandoval
Sponsor Escalando Suenos to Dhaulagiri I
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed True
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Beni->Dovan->Bagar->Italian BC
Basecamp Date 2007-04-14
Summit Date 2007-05-05
Summit Time 0600
Summit Days 21
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2007-05-09
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8120m (fore-summit)
High Point (m) 8120
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,4800m),C1(17/04,5750m),C2(18/04,7000m),C2.5(19/04,7300m),C3(25/04,7400m),ForeSmt(05/05,8120m)
Route Notes Martinez and Phu Dorchi Sherpa left C3 at the midnight of 4 May, reached summit (pole site) at about 6 am on 5 May. While descending Martinez was tired and leaned on a rock face to have a little rest. She suddenly slipped; Phu Dorchi tried to hold her but both of them tumbled down on the snow slope. Phu Dorchi said he was unconscious. He does not remember for how long. He lost his gloves. Then he went to Martinez, she was lying unconscious. About an hour later she became conscious and they walked to C3, spent night there. Next day to C2 and BC on 7 May. When I [Liz Hawley] met her at Marshyangdi Hotel on 14 May, Martinez had swollen left jaw, swollen left ankle, bruises in both legs, waist and shoulders. Her left hand fingers were white. Her voice was weak and coughing. She said she had little fever too and thinking to go to the Clinic the next day with her sister who is doing meditation in one of the Buddhist monasteries. I met Martinez and Phu Dorchi on 19 May at the residence of Laxman Shrestha (he speaks Spanish). Phu Dorchi told me that they reached to the point where the pole is and thought that was the summit. Martinez and her sister were staying at Laxman's Shrestha's home. Another independent climber Michael Parker said that when Martinez and Phu Dorchi returned to BC both of them look traumatized and did not talk to anybody at BC; instead Martinez went straight to her tent and Phu Dorchi went behind the BC site and was weeping. Parker said that he does not want to say whether Martinez and Phu Dorchi went to summit or not. It does not matter to him. But considering the poor climbing skill of Martinez and the bad condition of mountain, he thinks it was too early to get to the summit, though it was not impossible. He said, despite not being very experienced Sherpa Phu Dorchi indeed had done a great job for Martinez. Martinez and Phu Dorchi returned to Kathmandu on 14 May. Martinez will leave Nepal after 15 days. Sherpa: Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 28/2/83 (16/11/2039), Sedua-4, Makalu, no 8000ers Additional information on Mexican Dhaulagiri I - from Phu Dorchi Phu Dorchi Sherpa said that the pole is of steel and well-fixed on the ridge. The pole is about four inches in diameter and about a meter high. The top is pointed as of an arrowhead with three edges. No idea about the altitude of the place [an aluminum pole is at the false summit at 8120m]. Phu Dorchi said Martinez and himself climbed along the ridge to the place where the pole is placed. They were on the ridge when they fell (no idea about the altitude). Phu Dorchi lost his glove in the fall. When he got conscious after the fall his three fingers (middle, ring and little) were swollen and getting black. Phu Dorchi put his fingers on a rock and pressed hard/hammer with his boot till the fingers started flowing out black blood then he started sucking the fingers till all the black blood is completely out. Phu Dorchi kept his palm under his armpit. It started getting warm. By the time he got to BC his frostbitten fingers recovered and were in normal condition. Martinez had a camera but it did not work in C2; she changed to a new battery but it still did not work.
Accidents Martinez and Phu Dorchi fall
Achievement -
Agency Monterosa Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460058
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eva Martinez Sandoval F 1966 Mexico Leader Tlalnepantla de Baz, Estado de Mexico, Mexico Staff of company dealing in electrical goods Details Other expeditions
Phu Dorchi Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Sedua, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.