Dhaulagiri I | 2007 NE Ridge

A Austria expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2007 via NE Ridge, led by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. Summit reached on 5th May 2007. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5621
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA107107
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Sponsor Kaltenbrunner Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czech Republic
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2007-04-16
Summit Date 2007-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 29
Termination Date 2007-05-15
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to avalanching
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/04,4700m),C1(20/04,5750m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7400m),xxx(05/05,7400m)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C2 on NE Ridge C3 higher than Spanish team on ridge. Mrs Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's Dhaulagiri I climb - spring 2007 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Lucie Orsulova had pitched C1 on the North Col on 20 April and left their tent with important gear in it when they went down to BC. When they returned to C1 on 3 May, the tent and all the gear were gone. They were able to borrow essential items and they had a spare tent, so they managed to carry on with their climb. Kaltenbrunner learned later that the kitchen boy and another Sherpa sent up by an independent Italian, Renzo Benedetti, to bring down his gear, brought the ladies gear too, and it was left with his trekking agency in Kathmandu. Kaltenbrunner and Orsulova climbed from C1 to C3, which was right on the NE Ridge itself, on the 4 May and to C3 on 5 May. Now Orsulova was moving slowly, not feeling well with a bad headache, not eating or drinking because of feeling nauseous, losing her sense of balance; she had cerebral edema. They stayed two nights in C3 and during the second night Kaltenbrunner found Orsulova not even sleeping, but sitting up expecting to vomit at any moment; she started hallucinating. They began their descent to BC at 6:00 am the next day, the 7th. It was very slow: Orsulova had to be helped with the fixed ropes and fell down often (while attached to the ropes). There was a bad storm and sometimes there was no visibility; they had to wait in C2 for two hours for the storm to pass. They finally reached BC at 8:00 pm. Orsulova recovered enough at BC for her to be able to leave on the 11th. On the 11th, Kaltenbrunner left BC and climbed alone to C1. On the 12th she moved up to C2 in the company of members of a Spanish team, Santiago Sagaste, their leader, Ricardo Valencia and Javier (Javi) Serrano. Segaste was slow and arrived in camp four hours later than the others in a thunderstorm. On the 13th, there was a storm with strong wind and moving out of the tents was nearly impossible. But Kaltenbrunner knew she had to leave her tent when at 8:55 am she felt an avalanche moving it 10-15 meters down the mountain. (It was a small snow slab avalanche that had started not far above her camp). She used a knife to cut open her tent and got out of it without her boots (she had on two pairs of socks and down booties) and her sunglasses. She grabbed her shovel near the tent and dug it out of the snow, put on her boots and sunglasses and went to dig out the tent in which Sagaste and Valencia had spent the night. After an hour's digging, she found the tent with one lifeless arm and a leg sticking out of it. She then went to the other Spanish tent in which Serrano was still sleeping, woke him up and for an hour they tried to clear his tent of the snow. But then fearing more avalanching, they decided to go down to C1, and on the way, they met the independent Australian climber Michael Parker climbing up, unaware of any avalanche. He went on to his own undamaged C2, which was above the site of Kaltenbrunner's and Spaniards tents. She and Serrano reached C1 at about 12:30 pm. They waited for the end of avalanching that was coming down from a North Face feature known as Eiger and crossing the icefall section of the route from C1 to BC. They left C1 at 4:00 pm. and got to BC at 6:30 pm. Kaltenbrunner stayed in BC on 4 May and left it on 15 May to trek to Marpha with the Spanish team's survivors. On the 16th trekked to Jomsom and on the 17th flew Jomsom/Pokhara and Pokhara/Kathmandu. She is not sure what her next move is: she hesitates to go home, where a number of reporters are waiting for her...she doesn't even want to open her email. Her husband, Ralf Dujmovits, is climbing Manaslu, and she might trek towards his base camp, but if he is late finishing his climb, he will ask for a helicopter from his base camp and fly over her. She may wait for him to return to Kathmandu on the 26th; they are booked to fly home on the 29th.
Accidents Orsulova's cerebral edema only
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking (Rai)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460058
Year 2007
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner F 1970 Austria Leader Buehlertal, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Professional alpinist & nurse Details Other expeditions
Lucie Orsulova F 1975 Czech Republic Climber Prague, Czech Republic Attorney & ski instructor Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.