Dhaulagiri I | 2007 NE Ridge

A Kazakhstan expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2007 via NE Ridge, led by Denis Urubko. Summit reached on 1st May 2007. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5620
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA107106
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Denis Urubko
Sponsor Kazakhstan-Russian Dhaulagiri Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 128,130
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2007-04-14
Summit Date 2007-05-01
Summit Time 1900
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2007-05-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 9
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,4700m),C1(18/04,5800m),C2(20/04,6700m),C3(28/04,7400m),Smt(01-02/05)
Route Notes C1 at North Col C2 on NE Ridge. From C3 for top 1 May 5:00 am but very slow ascent because of deep snow (not bad wind). Summit party was Lutokhin, Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev. Luktokhin turned back at 7800m, very tired and went to C3. Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev reached the top at 7:00 pm; the first 2 returned to C3 at 11:00 pm, the other 2 at 10:00 pm. On 2nd May, Kozlovsky left C3 for the top at 5:15 am, reached 7500m and returned to C3, very tired. Urubko reached summit on 2 May. Surmonin got to 7100m 30 April, too tired to go higher and he was joined by Korshunov. Surmonin left team on 3 May. Kazakstani-Russian Dhaulagiri led by Denis Urubko - Spring 2007 Urubko set out to make a speed ascent of Dhaulagiri I from BC at 9:30 pm on 30 April but his ascent "was broken" when at 7300m at about 5:00 am on 1 May he found his member Boris Korshunov sitting there unprotected, close to a small rock cliff. Urubko found some rope and secured Korshunov in a safe place. Korshunov was shivering he so cold; Urubko massaged him to get him warm and gave him warm drinking water from a bottle under his jacket. Then he put a harness on Korshunov and slowly they descended, Korshunov slightly ahead with a short rope between them, from 7300m to 7100m down a steep ice slope. At 7100m at 9:00 am, Korshunov had warmed up and able to move normally; he was able to go by himself to C2 (6700m) and join Sergei Surmonin there. Urubko then resumed his ascent. He reached C3 at 10:00 am and stayed there as he was tired. On 2 May at 5:15 am he started up again and reached the summit at 9:45 am, spent an hour on the summit on a warm, windless morning, then down to C3 at 11:50 am and finally to BC at 6:00 pm. He went from BC to summit to BC in 45 hours. In their traverse away form the NE Ridge, Urubko's team used a shorter and more direct line to the summit, did not go up the small couloir to a small col, the way that Inaki Ochoa made the route on 26 April and was followed by Italians and Spaniards on the 29th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Royal Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460054
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Valeri Kozlovsky M 1967 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Director of optical lens company Details Other expeditions
Boris Korshunov M 1935 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Lutokhin M 1962 Russia Climber Chernogolovka, Moscow, Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Sergei Samoilov M 1958 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Svetlana Sharipova F 1970 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Army alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Evgeny Shutov M 1980 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Almaty city rescue team member Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Sinev M 1972 Russia Climber Chernogolovka, Moscow, Russia Engineer in construction company Details Other expeditions
Sergei Surmonin M 1968 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Dairy products company director in Tashkent Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko M 1973 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Kazakhstan army alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.