Dhaulagiri I | 2002 NE Ridge

A Ukraine expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2002 via NE Ridge, led by Vladislav Terzyul. Summit reached on 17th October 2002. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4181
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA102304
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Vladislav Terzyul
Sponsor Independent climbers
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 108
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-09-24
Summit Date 2002-10-17
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 23
Total Days 29
Termination Date 2002-10-23
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 400
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/09,4700m),C1(01/10,5900m),C2(02/10,6800m),C3(12/10,7500m),Smt(17/10)
Route Notes BC at 4700m near French Expedition C1 at 5900m NE Col C2 at 6800m 10m from NE Ridge C3 at 7500m on NE Ridge. Porters refused to take loads beyond Hidden Valley, so had to shuttle gear during next days. In C1 and C2 made in snow holes because roomier, warmer and away from wind: in Caucasus always used snowholes rather than tents. Only at C3 used tent, but put it in crevasse. 1st time at C3 was 4 Oct for acclimatization and down to C2, 5 Oct to BC. But weather delayed movement up again (at BC about 1 meter of snow). Slept in C3 on 12 Oct. Decided not to make traverse above C3 because dangerous avalanching on face, so stayed on NE Ridge and made new fixed rope on ridge in places were mixed rock and snow dangerous and need to jummar; fixed total 400m (300m taken from below C3 fixed by French). 13th, 14th and 15th after sunshine on route they fixed ropes. Above C3 snow not deep but below it was so deep that used snowshoes here (snowshoes very slow but not possible to move without them). 16th climbed to false summit at 8000m; very disappointed to see true summit above, requiring descent before reaching it, thus returned to C3. 17th started up before 5:00 am climbing in dark, moved quickly since now big storm coming from Annapurna. Reached false summit and beyond to main summit at 3:00 pm and back to C3 6:00 pm in snowfall and wind and bad visability. Took all day on 18th to reach C2 because of avalanching; normally took 1 hour to go down to C2. 19th down past C1, intending to go to BC but forced to pitch tent in icefall at 5700m. 20 Oct 2:00 pm finally in BC. 23 Oct went to Marpha to bring up porters and left all gear in one tent at BC and when returned all gone ($8000 worth gear), probably taken by trekking group's porters.
Accidents Pestrikov frostbitten toes above C3 (may lose tips) and forefinger (will heal) only
Achievement -
Agency Windhorse Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458392
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Pestrikov M 1963 Russia Climber Dnipropetrovsk, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladislav Terzyul M 1953 Ukraine Leader Odessa, Ukraine Runs a business supplying men to work on tall buildings Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA102304 HIGH - - - 252:62 (Nov 2003) -
DHA102304 - - http://www.russianclimb.com/ukr_dhau.html - - -