Dhaulagiri I | 2001 NE Ridge

A Spain expedition to Dhaulagiri I in 2001 via NE Ridge, led by Jose Antonio Garces. Summit reached on 12th October 2001. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3934
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID DHA101303
Peak ID DHA1
Year 2001
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jose Antonio Garces
Sponsor Independent team on Favre's Dhaulagiri I permit
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 106
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach Jomsom->French Pass
Basecamp Date 2001-09-16
Summit Date 2001-10-12
Summit Time 1115
Summit Days 26
Total Days 29
Termination Date 2001-10-15
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8167
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 5
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/09,4500m),C1(21/09,5600m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(01/10,7400m),Smt(12/10)
Route Notes BC at little below the usual camp site. Oct 12 Mondinelli, Pasaban with Sherpa left C3 at 04:30 hours. About 7800m Mondinelli told Pasaban to return due to dangerous snowline/path. Pasaban and Sherpa returned to C3. Mondinelli reached summit around 11:15 hours. Stayed about half an hour for photos - it was windy. He saw a dead body at the beginning of summit ridge 3/4-meter away. Garces and Merelli started from C3 at 05:30 hours. At about 8050m they met Favre and Blanc, who advised Garces to return as it was late and windy. Garces was behind Merelli who suddenly realized that Garces was not behind him. Then Blanc told him that he saw Garces fall (it was about 7800m). Merelli stayed at C3. On 13th he tried to find the body of Garces, but there was no trace of it. Then descended to BC, Soria also descended. The team (all members) with 2 Sherpas first attempted summit on Oct 2 but returned from 7700m due to soft snow condition. - Soria trying to leave Kathmandu on 22 - Pasaban to leave on 24, it depends on the return of Spanish Pumori expedition that lost 5 members - Mondinelli and Merelli probably leave on 26. Pasaban, Mondinelli and Merelli leaving on 26 Re Hirschbichler and Aregger summit: Soria told me that when Hirschbichler came back to BC from the climb, he wanted to felicitate her, but she told Soria not to because they did not reach the main summit. About Japanese team: The Japanese said that their Sherpas told them that that was the summit.
Accidents Garces fatal fall down from cliff
Achievement -
Agency Monterosa Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458021
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jose Antonio (Pepe) Garces Galindo M 1956 Spain Leader Candanchu, Huesca, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gian Mario Merelli M 1962 Italy Climber Lizzola, Bergamo, Italy Manages a small hotel Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar F 1973 Spain Climber Altzo, Guipuzcoa, Spain Industrial engineer Details Other expeditions
Carlos Soria Fontan M 1939 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Interior decorator Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
DHA101303 HIGH - - - 239:74-75 (Oct 2002) -
DHA101303 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth & Nakamura, Tomatsu - - 76:403 (2002) -
DHA101303 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200240300/Asia-Nepal-Gurans-Himal-Dualagiri-Ascents-Attempts-and-Tragedies - - -