Churen Himal Central | 1970 SE Face to Central Pk
A Japan expedition to Churen Himal Central in 1970 via SE Face to Central Pk, led by Ryozo Yamamoto. Summit reached on 24th October 1970. 7 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2469 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | CHUR70301 |
| Peak ID | CHUR |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face to Central Pk |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Ryozo Yamamoto |
| Sponsor | Academic Alpine Club of Shizuoka Churen Himal Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st,2nd Central Smt |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pokhara->Beni->Gurjakhani |
| Basecamp Date | 1970-09-24 |
| Summit Date | 1970-10-24 |
| Summit Time | 1100 |
| Summit Days | 30 |
| Total Days | 38 |
| Termination Date | 1970-11-01 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 7385 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 6 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 5 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 7 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Churen Himal West (CHRW-703-01) |
| Campsites | BC(24/09,4100m),C1(25/09,4750m),C2(01/10,5300m),C3(05/10,5650m),C4(11/10,6300m),C5(18/10,6600m),C6(21/10,6800m),Smt(24,26/10) |
| Route Notes | All 5 climbers arrive KTM today. Believe Koreans reached ony 7000m on East peak because their highest camp at 6300m and not possible to reach summit East Peak from there. Japanese C5 - 6600m C6 - 6800m highest camp From C5 to top took one day up very steep Japanese on 24 Oct members Masayoshi and Hasegawa reached summit Central Peak 7371m from C6 at 6800m. 26 Oct - 2 Sherpas and Doma reached Central Peak summit 28 Oct - attempted traverse ex-C6 to main peak (West Peak) 7371m - successful also Hasegawa again and Sherpa Sirdar Ang Norbu C4 - 6300m C3 - 5650m C2 - 5310m C1 - 4700m BC - 4100m Approached from southeast in Central part of massif. South Face looked very steep from base, but found route by approaching from southeast (Italians had turned by west). Future attempts should try southwest side direct to main peak; if had more fixed rope would have tried this route. Stay KTM one week After 2-3 Dhaulagiri IV will reach Pokhara; Tukuche expedition 1 week to Pokhara. Shah, MFA - 12 Nov 70 Left base 3 Nov, arrive Beni 9 Nov All well; successful or not, not given (Sherpa said to have climbed alone, according local paper) GB Shah, MFA - 6 Oct 70 Churen Himal expeditions leader brought to KTM yesterday report of Fukuoka expedition's establish C1; he's not well and is returning to Japan, leaving KTM tomorrow (and not returning to Nepal, according to Matsezawa). West Peak of Churen Himal summitted on 28 Oct: Kozo Hasegawa Ang Norbu Sherpa |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446634 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face to central pk |
Members
7 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ryozo Yamamoto | M | 1939 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Staff member, Chugai Pharmaceutical Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Masayoshi Fukui | M | 1939 | Japan | Climber | Aichi, Japan | Teacher, Komaki High School | Details Other expeditions |
| Eiji Doma | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Hyogo-ken, Japan | 4th-year student at Shizuoka University's Agriculture Faculty | Details Other expeditions |
| Kozo Hasegawa | M | 1942 | Japan | Climber | Yamagata, Japan | Teacher, Shizuoka Gakuen High School | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Serizawa | M | - | Japan | Leader | - | Manufacturing Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jangbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
12 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CHUR70301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 45:437 (1971) | - |
| CHUR70301 | AAJ | Seizawa, Takashi | - | - | 46:186-187 (1972) | - |
| CHUR70301 | HJ | Yamamoto, Ryozo | The First Ascent of the Main Peak of Churen Himal, 1970 | - | 31:170-173 (1971) | - |
| CHUR70301 | JAC | Yamamoto, Ryozo | The First Ascent of Main Peak of Churen Himal in 1970 | - | 66:24-27 (1971) | - |
| CHUR70301 | AJ | Yamamoto, Ryozo | First Ascent of Churen Himal | - | 77:105-109 (1972) | - |
| CHUR70301 | MM | - | - | - | 14:5 (Mar 1971) | - |
| CHUR70301 | JAC | Yamamoto, Ryozo | The First Ascent of Main Peak of Churen Himal in 1970 | - | 66:109-121 (1971) | - |
| CHUR70301 | - | Shizuoka University Alpine Club | Churen Himal 1970 | Shizuoka University Alpine Club, Shizuoka, Japan | - | jS75 |
| CHUR70301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197218602/Asia-Nepal-Churen-Himal-Dhaula-Group | - | - | - |
| CHUR70301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143703/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-VI | - | - | - |
| CHUR70301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/31/18/the-first-ascent-of-the-main-peak-of-churen-himal-1970/ | - | - | - |
| CHUR70301 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%20105-109%20Yamamoto%20Churen.pdf | - | - | - |